Changed vro

[Smitty.al]

Hello boaters I'm new to the forums. Had a problem with the fuel side of the vro pump starving the engine. Was gonna replace the pump side and go to premix. Unfortunately the pumps are $$$. I decided to replace with a electronic Holley fuel pump. Removed to pulse fitting and replaced with a plug and plugged off other non used lines. Motor ran great first time but now it is extremely hard to crank and I've list choke function.

 

[StingRay_90V4]

My 90 hp v4 just had the same fuel pump issue. So we picked up a fuel pump from our local rude dealer that does away with the vro and does fuel only. It attaches to the v4s block to get its pulse signal and works perfect. Its your best bet imo.

 

[Smitty.al]

Thank you! When you did away with the vro setup did your choke stop working?

 

[ondarvr]

If you kept the wires connected there's no reason for the choke (actually a primer) to stop working, recheck them.

Electric fuel pumps aren't recommended for use on outboards, unless you wire them with the correct safety precautions they can be a significant potential hazard.

 

[StingRay_90V4]

^ I agree with both of those statements totally. And also... Yes. My chokes/ primers. Actually prime one or two of the carbs with fuel in the intake side ro het the motor running. Unless you accidentally disconected it. Or it is not function due to another reason it should still be working after a fuel pimp replacement.

 

[Smitty.al]

I unhooked the wiring when I did away with the vro pump and fuel pump. I actually usedthe 12v supply of the key switch that was used for the vro pump. It's a constant 12v with key on. I didn't realize there were any safety concerns doing the electric pump

 

[Smitty.al]

Is the primer part off the factory fuel pump or on the assembly plate

 

[ondarvr]

The wires for the primer go from the key to the primer solenoid on the carb, there would have been no reason to mess with them while tapping into the ignition switch for 12V. You may have disconnected it without knowing.

The fuel pump needs to be wired into a power source that's only working when the motor is actually running, so if the motor stops the pump doesn't get any power and stops too. If you don't do this and the motor stops, you can pump fuel into the boat until the tanks empty, which makes for a bit of a fire hazard.

Also, an outboard carb typically needs a lower fuel pressure than a car, so it would need a pressure regulator. After doing all these things correctly you end up with a more complicated system, which equals a possibly less reliable system.

 

[fhhuber]

There are a few ways that an electric fuel pump simply wired to the key switch can keep pumping fuel into a fire when the engine dies. (most significant being a fuel line leak between pump and carb) The pumps operated by the vacuum/pressure impulses from the crankcase stop pumping immediately upon the engine dieing.

without listing the engine involved, we can't point at the exact replacement parts needed, but there are older version non-VRO pumps operated by the crankcase pressure/vacuum impulse which can be used.

Fuel pump really shouldn't affect the choke function. Though you may have disabled it by causing the wire to fall off the ignition switch or some similar simple issue.

 

[Smitty.al]

Now that I know it's a solenoid I've figured out what the choke is and I did pull it with the fuel pump it is all mounted on the same plate. I never thought about the safety aspect of it and your correctI. need to find a 12v supply that's only on when the engine is running. I suppose wiring through a relay would be the best bet that way I'm not pulling to much juice from what ever i would tap into. The motor is a 1996 evinrude fast strike 150hp. Thank you all for the advice you've been a big help so far especially on the safety aspect.