Castle nut question

[rebars1]

I am converting an ancient trailer from wheels with built-in hubs to the separate hub/wheel system. The trailer appears to have been built by Jerr-E-Rig Co, so things are different than one would normally see. It has a straight 1" diameter axel with pipe sleeve spacers to position the wheel on the spindle.

My question is should the castle nut make direct contact with the outer bearing, or should there be a washer beteen them? The current set up has a short pipe sleeve spacer between the nut and bearing (no hubcap).

 

[tommays]

Re: Castle nut question

How did the grease seals work and will the NEW hubs be able to seal ? on the OLD style axel


Tommays

 

[rebars1]

Re: Castle nut question

The old gease seals consisted of the old metal ring (rubber gone) over a steel washer over a fiberwasher. They held in the grease, but did not keep out the water. The system apparently had worked OK over the years(fresh water), but disintegrated with a few salt water dips.

I am milling the inner spacer to fit the new grease seal ID. I also will be shifting the hub assembly outward so the new hubcap/bearing buddy will fit and seal.

 

[bjcsc]

Re: Castle nut question

Washers behind a castle nut are fine, and standard. The key is you have to make sure the inside diameter is large enough to clear the shoulder on the stub, i.e. hold the bearing in the correct position. You use enough washers behind so the pin hole lines up with the nut. If it lines up without it, you don't need it. Very common, we do it every day.

 

[rebars1]

Re: Castle nut question

Thanks for the clarification. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[MrBigStuff]

Re: Castle nut question

Washers behind a castle nut are fine, and standard. The key is you have to make sure the inside diameter is large enough to clear the shoulder on the stub, i.e. hold the bearing in the correct position. You use enough washers behind so the pin hole lines up with the nut. If it lines up without it, you don't need it. Very common, we do it every day.

I don't understand something and was hoping you could clarify.

In all situations where I've had wheel bearings, the castellated nut always has a washer in order to properly distribute the force required when loading the bearing. The castellated nut has numerous slots so that the nut can be backed off slightly if the holes do not line up with a slot when the nut is properly seated against the bearing. Why would you need multiple washers? Is this not a standard tapered wheel bearing in this application?

Just trying to expand my education!

 

[bjcsc]

Re: Castle nut question

Sometimes, most often when using different wheels on the same axle, or changing to different wheels as rebars1 did, the problem you run into is that it is not even close, i.e. when the nut is tight enough on the bearing, the hole for the pin is way beyond the castellated part of the nut. Other times, the nut will get to the end of the thread but not tighten the bearing. You can then stack washers behind the nut until the hole will line up. We run multiple trailers (four single axle, two tandem axle, two tandem horse) and sometimes need to do it when moving wheels from one to another (can't seem to ever get them all straight at the same time!). We also run into it on the carriages we run. New style carriage wheels have rubber on them, and it comes off from time to time requiring a spare until we can put the rubber back on. Some of our hubs will use no washers and some use 3. I have never had a problem not using a washer, the nut makes really good contact with the bearing and preload torque is usually ~30lbs, although we do it as I described above. (The only times I have had bearings fail is from people putting them on too tight) Does that make more sense??

 

[rebars1]

Re: Castle nut question

MrBigStuff: The axel I have has a non-tapered 1" diameter spindel. I needed to shift the new hub outward from the original position so the dust cap would work. I was able to reposition the existing pipe sleeve spacers and add one washer to get the right position and castle nut orientation.

I have a new question: Will bearing buddies work with a non-tapered spindel?

 

[MrBigStuff]

Re: Castle nut question

Thanks to both for taking the time to explain the situation. Much appreciated!

I don't see any reason why a bearing buddy wouldn't work regardless of the type of spindle. All it does is apply positive pressure to the grease, forcing it through the bearings and against the inner seal.