Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

[DrD]

I have a 1991 shorelandr tandem axle trailer. There are two carpeted bunks attached to a channel bracket which is then attached to a crossmember. Should those bunk brackets be wrench tight to the channel bracket?

I bought the trailer (and boat) used. There was one bolt that had to be replaced, and the remaining three are rusty, but otherwise seem to be ok. I noticed that there is a slight gap between the angle bracket holding the bunk to the channel assy at each of those three remaining bolts. Is a gap something that is normal when attaching the bunks? Looseness in the bunks might be desireable for lineup during loading, but somehow I don't think so.

Thank you,

-Dale-

 

[Sorrento 25]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

I have similar problems with my trailer. I believe they should all be very secure once adjusted for the hull. Since my trailer once had a different boat on it I need to completely adjust all my bunks. I have way too much weight on the center rollers right now.

My plan is to use a jack somehow to push all the bunk brackets up to the hull with an approximately equal amount of pressure so the weight is as evenly distributed onto the bunks as possible.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

- - - My plan is to use a jack somehow to push all the bunk brackets up to the hull with an approximately equal amount of pressure so the weight is as evenly distributed onto the bunks as possible.

When I bought my trailer new I had to adjust it to fit the boat. After the boat was on the new traier, what I did was put some 2x4 diagonal across the rear trailer frame rails with a scizzor jack on it to support one corner of the boat. Then the bunk brackets can be loosened and a floor jack with a short lenght of 2x4 can be used to jack up the bunk until it is taking weight and then tighten the brackets. It takes a bit of raising the scizor jack, then the floor jack, maybe lower the scizzor jack, etc until the boat is level and the bunks are making proper contact.

I adjusted my boat so some of the weight is on the keel rollers, but most of the weight is on the bunks. It seems to be working well. The boat stays put while trailering, but on the ramp when loading and it gets off center by 8" or so you can shove the boat sidways and it "fall's" into place.

An added benefit of having the bunks carry most of the weight is the keel rollers don't crush down and get nasty flat spots from the boats weight. Keel rollers that are crushed don't roll nice when winching the boat onto the trailer.

I also replaced the black keel rollers and bow stop with the clear yellow rollersand stop to keep from making black rub marks all over the hull.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

i have found it much easier to block the trailer up off the spring suspension. this way you have a stable platform to work with, then adjust the bunks. just block up the stearn of hte trailer , a use the front jack, to take the pressure off the springs, then block the front for safety while under the trailer. now you can take a floor or sizzor jack and pump up the bunks.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

I just replaced all my keel rollers before I loaded the boat because they were crushed and flat-spotted from the last boat and now I think I did it again.

I also replaced that front V-stop with the black rubber one and I have a nice black skid mark from one use. The rolling yellow one is on my list!

Good advice though thanks!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

my chris craft deck boat has yellow marks on the bow from the yellow bow stop.

 

[DrD]

Re: Carpeted wooden bunks -- bracket question

Ok, since some of you have black rollers and get black marks on the keel, while others have yellow rollers and get yellow marks on the keel, where can I get grey rollers and bowstop for my grey keel?
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