Thanks for the info. I found this but how do I cross reference this with the 2300 or 4150/4160?
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by the pic its a 2300 2-barrel. by the engine size its the 500cfm
by googling, there is even an old rebuild threads on iboats
I've got a '99 VP 5.0 GLPWTR. I've rebuilt the carb but noticed that the replacement accelerator pump diaphragm which came in the Sierra kit model 18-7238 is much smaller than the one that came out. According to Amazon, 18-7238 cross references to VP part # 3854020/OMC 986796. According to the...
forums.iboats.com
My issue is that during moderate to heavy throttle increase, the engine dies- almost instantly. It idles well in neutral and if I slowly increase the throttle, it increases in rpms nice and smooth throughout the power band as if nothing is wrong. I've yet to be able to identify the Holley carb...
forums.iboats.com
I would buy a holley rebuild kit and not a sierra. without knowing your air-horn number, I would buy this one
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...ts/rebuild_kits/marine_renew_kit/parts/703-36
the great thing about holleys:
all bowl gaskets are the same shape, get the blue ones
all metering block gaskets are the same shape, get the blue ones
there are 30cc accelerator diaphragms and 50cc diaphragms
the base gaskets are matched to the throttle body.
the 2300 holley has limited choices, there is a 350 CFM and a 500 CFM so there are only two base gaskets and the kit above has both.
however their kit will come a few extra parts you may or may not need. and your specific power valve may or may not be in the kit.
I tend to buy base gaskets 3 or 4 at a time and a 10-pack of bowl gaskets and I have an assortment of power valves on-hand.
when it comes to rebuild. do not soak the bowls, metering plate or throttle body in simple green cleaner or acid. the parts are made of zinc and will dissolve. us either mineral spirits or a good carb cleaner. do not use bleach on the zinc either.
chase every passage with air and a piece of fishing wire. the acceleration circuit is the first to plug, followed by the idle air bleeds, then the idle circuit
pull the accelerator pump squirter and make sure the check valve (its a carb needle and seat) is free. fuel will varnish this thing in place from sitting
if you have the rubber style of accelerator pump check in the bowl (looks like an orange mushroom) after you pull it thru the bottom of the bowl, snip off the end with a scissors or the long tab will interfere with the float
work over a catch basin. you will drop parts, plus the bowls may have fuel in them, so you want to catch that.
