Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

[Celeb92]

Hi. Now that the weather is moderating, I'm back to working on and learning about my Yamaha stern drive -- 5.0 YEMS. So...I installed a garden hose inlet via PVC pipe in the intake line for the raw water pump. I put a valve before the water inlet so I can either back-flush the drive or not run water backwards through the drive at all. Hooked up the garden hose through a pressure regulator set for 10 psi. With the valve closed so no water is sent to the drive, there was very little water flow -- as expected since the engine was not running and the raw water pump was not being turned. I assume that the very low water flow -- you could hear it running through the regulator -- was passing through the pump by slightly bending the vanes. Now -- for the question.

Water was trickling out of the drive from two locations. There was some "weepage" from the small holes below the joint between the intermediate and lower housings. There was water flowing from the aluminum anode mounted to the bottom of the gimbal ring at a rate consistent with the volume implied by the sound of water flowing through the regulator. No water was flowing from the gear case so nothing was passing through the exhaust manifolds -- as expected without the raw water pump turning. The interior surfaces of the gombal ring were dry. There was no leakage inside the boat. It was difficult to see even with a flashlight but it appeared that the water was flowing through the aluminum anode. Both bellows are essentially new (less than 20 hours) and look good and were dry. So...any thoughts on how the water was flowing to that part of the gimbal ring and is that a problem. Oh yea, the engine and drive were properly winterized and the block and manifolds are still filled with anti-freeze. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice.

BTW - I haven't located a YB-38106 Pivot Bolt Wrench but a large (forgot the size) hex (allen) wrench seems to fit tight without any slop. Can I use the 6-point hex in place of the 12 point Yamaha tool to pull the Pivot Bolts?

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Couple of things to consider;

1. You put in a valve so that the water hose cannot flow BACK to the water pump - BAD - when you get around to starting this engine you are going to fry that impeller if that valve is closed.

2. when the engine is off, all water by-passes the engine and flows out the exhaust, dumping out the easiest exit, at the transsom plate/anode. once the engine is running and exhaust flow speeds water flow then some water will exit thru the exhaust passages thru the gearcase and out the prop

3. Pivot tool, a 6 pt MAY work depending on how tight the bolts are, HOWEVER, you stand and equal or greater than equal chance of rounding them off. Get the proper tool for the job, it will save you time, money and a lot of misery in the long run.

 

[Celeb92]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Thanks for the post CharlieB but you misread my description. The valve is between the outdrive water intake and the raw water pump -- not after the pump. The hose connector is between the valve and the pump. So...when the hose is on there is a steady flow of water to the intake of the pump and, if I choose, I can send water backwards through the drive by opening the valve. This arrangement allows flushing while the boat is in the water. I never had luck with muffs -- bought three different kinds but all leaked around the water intake of the drive so badly that I was afraid to fry the raw water pump impeller that way. Again thanks for the reply but I think you missed the point.

Where is Capt Ken now-a-days?

 

[Bondo]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Where is Capt Ken now-a-days?

Donno,..... He hasn't been to any of the forums I frequent......

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Caleb,

Gotcha. For the most part when owners start adding 'valves' I cringe.

Either way, manufacturers allow waste water to dump and not run a 'sealed' exhaust system clear to the prop as the additional back pressure at idle would create problems.

Wether your engine is running or not, your garden hose pressure will push water past the raw water pump, the engine circ pump/thermostat limits the flow of water within the engine and all excess water flows thru the exhaust and overboard, what you are seeing is the overflow leaking out thru these exhaust 'vents' at the outer transom plate just prior to the OD gearcase.

Once the engine is running at speed the volume of air thru the exhaust will carry/push some of the waste water thru the exhaust passage within the gearcase and you will then begin to see water at the prop.

You have no cause for alarm unless you have water leaking inside the boat.

 

[Capt Ken]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

I'm still alive I think? Only a few people know that in a parallel life I'm a politican and I been going throught a re-election campaign the past few months. That ended this week so I'm back to the boat repairing. The piviot tool is the same as Mercruiser and costs less than $20. The rest of what you said, I have no problem.
BTY, I won.

 

[Celeb92]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Thanks all -- particularly CharlieB and Cap. I didn't think there was a problem (for the reasons mentioned by CharlieB) but since I'm a novice with boats and clueless with the Yamaha drive (although I'm learning), it's a real comfort to get help from the experts on this board.

I haven't been able to locate the Yamaha pivot pin tool but suspected in might be the same as the Mercruiser but a tool distributor who sells Mercruiser tools and the several Yamaha dealers I called all said they are not the same! It's too bad that a really well designed and manufactured drive like the Yamaha was abandoned by "authorized Yamaha dealers" (except luckily for Capt Ken ;-) ).

BTW ChalieB -- your concern about forgetting things like a valve in the intake line is well placed. Like anyone else who deals with machinery, I've made my share of dumb mistakes. But my days building race cars and other machinery have taught me a few things. I drilled a hole in the valve handle where I hang a bright tag by a spring clip. In order to close the valve I have to remove the tag or get it stuck in my hand. As soon as the tag is removed, I hang it over the ignition key. When I trailer, I have a small but bright flag hung from the transom drain via a small pipe nipple. The flag can't be missed when I pull the transom saver in preparation for launch and an instant reminder to install the plug before I do the next pre-launch chore. Forgetful YES, dumb -- well, I try to minimize that!

Again thanks all and WELCOME BACK Capt Ken. I'm sure I'll need your expert advice as I continue to learn about my Yammie

 

[PurSid]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

I know this thread is quite old and I do not want to hijack it, but one of the comments were, you shouldn't have any cause for alarm unless you are getting water in the boat". I have a 1992 Sterndrive and I am getting water in the boat.
When sitting in the water, engine running or not, I get water coming in right under the Y pipe in the engine compartment. From what I can tell, it must be coming in through the bottom of the anode on the gimbal housing.

Can anyone tell me why this would be or point me in the right direction?
I understand that these holes in the anode are the dump when the eingine isn't running, but why would it be leaking in to the boat, what are they supposed to lead to inside the boat? When looking down in to the engine compartment you can see the watter coming in at a good rate, right below the Y pipe. The bilge can keep up, but it shouldn't be leaking water in.

Any help would be great, and CaptKen, I sent you an email on this as well before I found this thread.

Thanks -

1992 Rinker 186 w/ Yamaha sterndrive.

 

[Don S]

Re: Capt Ken -- Yamaha question -- HELP

Start a new thread with your question, use old posts as a reference if needed, but please start a new thead.
Once one or two replies are made, your post will be invisible.