Can't tighten back bolt on TnT pump assembly

[idunk]

Is there a trick to tightening the bolt closest to the transom on a force trim and tilt pump assembly for a 1989 125 HP? The only room to even squeeze in a wrench is underneath, but the back two hydraulic lines block any movement. I am stumped, but there has to be a way. Help!!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Can't tighten back bolt on TnT pump assembly

Go to your local tool store and buy a distributor wrench, 1/2 inch size. The usual ones found in the auto stores work, but the best is the "U" or "horseshoe" shaped ones. They allow you to clear the hydraulic lines and swing the wrench a bit, but it will still be slow going.

 

[azlakes]

Re: Can't tighten back bolt on TnT pump assembly

... ya its a cramped quarters, the method i had to use was not to connect the hydrolic lines and work the open end wrench until the bolt you mention was tight. get as much of it finger snug before you try to wrench down the rest.

 

[idunk]

Re: Can't tighten back bolt on TnT pump assembly

Yes azlakes I did have those 2 lines loose when I took off the old pump and that worked. Thing is I am going to attach them first this time with the pump off to avoid stripping the threads so that won't work Think I will take up Frank's idea with the distributor tool. Thanks to both of you!!

 

[RRitt]

Re: Can't tighten back bolt on TnT pump assembly

I got three tricks for dealing with it. The first two take advantage of the fact that you have about 3/8" of clearance on back side of transom clamp. The third simply does away with problem.

The first way is to run a socket head cap screw from the back side and clear through the bracket such that it creates a stud. As you turn the bolt from the back side it will tighten the nut located underneath pump. If you do it just right you only need to turn the wrench for the final 1/4 turn.

The second way is to cut bolt of exactly right length and drill out the transom bracket. Then put bolt into pump beforehand and tighten a nut onto backside.

The third way is to use the Eaton "L" bracket. Ideally, you have an Eaton pump since it also happens to be the best engineered of any Mercury or Force ever used (including current Mercury/Oildyne designs). But, If you have a prestolite .... you can drill some holes into the Eaton bracket and use it. The bracket attaches to transom clamp. The pump attaches to bracket with mounting bolts facing towards you instead of engine. Rotate valve body 90 degrees and make sure that you drill the holes in exactly right spot since the tubing must still line up at orignial location.

My favorite is method #1. Make sure to run a tap into three transom bracket holes before starting. It is not uncommon for threads to have dirt, paint, corrosion and your job is so much easier with clean threads.