Can't get linkage setup correct or reverse 1988 Johnson 175

[Intoodeeep]

Ok, I have a 1988 Johnson 175 that I have put a lot of time in after building a new engine. The linkage setup was finicky with the last one and I may not have had it completely setup right the first time. But I have pulled the lower unit and have measures the shift rod to spec and setup the linkage with it in neutral and per the manual.
The issue is I can get it to go onto forward gear fine but it will not go into reverse. or I can get it to go vice versa if I adjust it or even to get it to go in between. But can't get the sweet spot. I have even adjusted the rod up and down a turn or two in both directions with the same result. It is back to its correct measurement now. I have found that when I shift the control box into reverse to the first detent it will not engage. But if I move it past the first detent it will engage. I disconnected the control cable and found that in neutral the cable has zero play. But if I shift it to the first detent in reverse, the cable has an additional half inch of travel that the cable could travel. If I move the control box past the first detent the cable has a quarter of an inch the cable could travel. The cables are only a couple years old and are from Teleflex. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? Is it the control box or the lower unit that is the problem or is it even the cables. I have not taken the control box apart yet but it moves freely and is not binding. The gear shift will go into reverse and forward with no problem with shifting the linkage at the engine. Thanks in advance.

 

[Joe Reeves]

From your explanation which is pretty thorough, it sounds like you have the proper information and knowledge to be adjusting the shift rod correctly. If with the shift cable disconnected from the engine, you can shift the engine by hand by simply moving the engine's shift linkage... then I'd assume the problem is with the cable or the control box.

You go on to say that in neutral, the shift cable has zero play... that pretty well pins the problem down to the control box.

Continuing on, you say, in not so many words, that if you shift into reverse, play suddenly shows up in the cable. Have someone push/pull on the shift cable while you observe the inner workings of the control box... what is moving?

 

[Intoodeeep]

Joe, thanks for the sarcasm.....and why didn't I think of that. Thanks. I will do that today and see what I find.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Sarcasm? It wasn't intentional I assure you... at time I'm a little careless with words, sorry about that. I read my reply over and changed what I though might be offensive.

 

[Intoodeeep]

Joe it was not big deal at all. I have been frustrated for a while with this entire engine build. I took the control box apart and found a broken tooth. So new stuff ordered for that. Also Teleflex said to start adjustments in the forward detent position and not neutral like the omc manual says to do.

All that aside I have more issues now that I got it running for the first time since I built it. The o-ring has failed at the top of the gear case shaft so I have water coming out under the cowling. I don't mind pulling the gear case but its those dam screws under the bottom carb to disconnect the shifter I hate.

Also I have a 20 degree difference between port and starboard. Port is running around 160 and starboard 180. Not sure if this is a big deal but it concerns me. Maybe a stuck thermostat and they were off the old motor which weren't that old. Next time I order parts I will order a t-stat. For now I am not sure if it is an issue to run as is or not. But I have now had two brand new coils go bad within five minutes of each other. As soon as I swapped out the number one coil the number five coil went bad. And they are brand new! Uhg...I will never get this thing on the water this summer.

 

[Joe Reeves]

1 -

I took the control box apart and found a broken tooth.

2 - Also Teleflex said to start adjustments in the forward detent position and not neutral like the omc manual says to do.

3 - The o-ring has failed at the top of the gear case shaft so I have water coming out under the cowling. I don't mind pulling the gear case but its those dam screws under the bottom carb to disconnect the shifter I hate.

4 - Also I have a 20 degree difference between port and starboard. Port is running around 160 and starboard 180.

5 - But I have now had two brand new coils go bad within five minutes of each other. As soon as I swapped out the number one coil the number five coil went bad. And they are brand new! Uhg...I will never get this thing on the water this summer.

1 - Yes, that broken tooth in the control box would really mess things up proper.

2 - I totally disagee with Teleflex as that scenario would have the shift favoring one shift of the other. See my suggestios below.

3 - Invest in a long 1/4" drive extension and a universal (flex) socket of the proper size (usually 3/8" hex but some vary). That will easily reach and unscrew the retaining bolt. To remove and install the bolt, use a mechanics long finger grab tool. Works for me.

4 - This degree difference could indeed be a thermostat problem. It could also be due to a swelled water deflector which is a scenario I've encountered many times. This is also explained below.

5 - New coils going bad as you describe is unusual to put it mildly. When a coil fails to fire, run the orange primary wire from a firing coil to the non firing coil to properly test it.

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(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)

When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine. Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.

Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost. Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.
Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

Let us know how it goes with you.