Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

[JoshGuitar]

I have a '79 Johnson 70 HP, currently hooked up to a one-lever remote. I also have a '77 Johnson 9.9 HP, currently set up with just tiller control. I'd like to set it up so I can control both from the drivers seat. They wouldn't be run at the same time, but I'd like to use the same controls for both if possible.

The 9.9 was added to the boat before I got it, and it already has the remote steering bracket with the relocated kill switch, and the cable clamps for throttle and shift, but nothing else.

Steering isn't an issue, I already have the rod to couple the engines together, it's just not hooked up.

I've seen the electronic remote kicker throttle setups, but I'd rather just control it from the same lever as the main engine. Is there something available already that will couple the controls on both engines together, or am I going to have to home brew something? I've searched around and so far haven't seen anything.

If I have to go DIY, the 2 options I see are:
1) leave the cables in place on the big engine. Run 2 cables from the big engine to the kicker, 1 for shift, 1 for throttle, so when the throttle lever on the big engine moves, it pushes the cable for the throttle on the kicker, same with the shifter.

2) Disconnect the cables from the 70HP, and make my own linkage that mounts somewhere convenient. Hook the cables up to my homemade linkage (basically just 2 levers mounted on a plate, with holes at appropriate points for cable attachment). Run 4 cables from my linkage, 2 shift, 2 throttle. Connect these to the engines.

Advantages of #1, it's simpler, and if I screw something up with the kicker controls, at least the 70HP control will be unaffected.

Advantages of #2, it's easier to individually adjust the linkages for both engines - with #1, if say the 70HP shift lever had to move 1/2" at its mount point to go from neutral to reverse, and the 9.9 had to move 1/4", I could just change the mount points for each cable on the linkage to get the proper travel.

Or is it easier to just run a second set of cables in parallel from the control lever?

I can't be the first person who's ever tried to do this, so maybe I'm using the wrong search terms, but any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[JSGOLD]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

I am no expert on this stuff but have a similar situation....a 76' 55hp evinrrude and a 61' Evinrude 5.5 Fisherman kicker. I just added a second control and ran cables. In my case the single lever controller for the 55 would have never ran my kicker and I could see no other "easy" way to do it. I have seen dual motor control boxes on Ebay but unsure if they would work for your application plus they are EXPENSIVE. I am sure others on here will have opinions on this.

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

I just don't see it working with a single control. For one thing the gearcase usually won't go into gear without the engine running - if you're running the smaller engine and try shifting into gear the bigger engine's gearcase will prevent the shifter cable from moving far enough. It just sounds like a potential nightmare, seems like it would be far more practical to use 2 controls. I'm sure someone could come up with a way to make it work, but it's problably not going to be easy nor cost effective.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

You need two sets of controls - period. As noted above, even if you could somehow monkey-rig the cables from your main motor to also operate the auxiliary, you'd run into problems with shifting the non-running motor. You would also be putting a great deal of strain on your existing throttle and cables by adding that much extra drag in the system. Considering it is your lifeline to the motor, I wouldn't risk it...

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

What you can do to make life simpler is just hook up the steering arm as you mentioned and control the kicker's throttle at the transom when needed.

If that won't work I'd get another control box and mount it behind the main OB controls.

I find that when I'm trolling I only need to steer since I stay at the same speed for hours at a time.

Additionally, I actually use my 80hp Merc lower unit as a rudder to steer the boat while the kicker is running. As long as you don't need to turn on a dime it's been perfect for my rig.

Good luck!

 

[JoshGuitar]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

Well the kicker isn't really for trolling (I also have an electric trolling motor for that), it's mainly for a few local lakes with horsepower restrictions. And then of course as a backup so I don't get stranded if the main one breaks down on me. So it would be used basically the same way I'd use the bigger motor, and I'd prefer to be able to control everything from the same place.

I guess the only other way to use the one set of controls for both motors would be with some kind of quick disconnect setup where I could just swap the cables depending on which motor I'm planning on running, but that has its own set of problems.

So I guess I'm down to either getting a dual control box or a second control box if I want to avoid the tiller throttle/electronic remote throttle setup. Thanks for all y'all's input.

 

[JSGOLD]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

That is my problem too...we have three local lakes with 10HP limits and we will use them 90% of the time. In fact eventually I will drop the 5.5 for a 9.9 when money permits (if ever) just to pick up a little speed but the second set of controls is easier to deal with. On mine my main motor has electric choke and even using a dual control box would be a pain for me.

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

I agree with everyone else. Ran into problems with throttle between my '67 Johnson 80HP and my '76 Johnson 9.9. Had to go with a separate control box for the 9.9 as homemade controls didn't cut it. Check around with local shops. I picked mine up used for $75 and it fit and works perfectly. I have the same setup as you and for the same reasons. Only way to go.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

Perhaps it might be possible to 'reverse' the function of a dual station control unit??

 

[JoshGuitar]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

Haffiman, I saw those when I was searching around, and I think they'd theoretically work except they'd run into the same problem of a non-running engine not wanting to shift. I guess throttle wouldn't be an issue, you can open and close that all day, running or not...

For what it's worth, the 70 HP has no trouble shifting in and out of gear without the engine running. At least the shift lever on the engine moves, I don't know if the gears actually engage, but as long as the lever moves that takes the strain off of the cable. Unfortunately, the 9.9 doesn't work the same.

The only other thing I can think of that might work would be to have the shifter control from the remote hook up to some kind of homebrew linkage like I said before, but then instead of a solid cable from that to each shifter, have a spring in there somewhere (one for each engine), so instead of trying to rigidly move both shifters, it will just put spring pressure on both shifters. If the engine is running, the spring pressure will push it into gear, if it's not running, it will just sit there with a little pressure on the spring. But that's quickly getting into "Rube Goldberg" territory, so I think I'll pass on that

JSGOLD, where did you mount the second set of controls? Right behind/in front of the main one? Any pics? I have a 16' boat, so I don't have tons of space to work with, but I could probably squeeze something in.

If I went with a second set of controls, I guess my only other decision to make would be whether I should add electric choke to the kicker, add a remote push/pull cable control for the choke like I have on my garden tractor, or just send a passenger to the back of the boat and yell "CHOKE IT! OK, OPEN IT UP A LITTLE! OOPS, GIVE IT SOME MORE CHOKE!"

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

In 'normal' installations only one of the 2 cables moves, either fly-bridge or main while the single cable to engine always move.
Reverse operation, if possible(?), let your remote operate the single cable and the switcher decide which of the 2 outgoing should move.

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Can I control my main and kicker outboards from the SAME control box?

The only thing I can think of would be to control the system with electric or hydrolic cylinders. You would probably have more money in that setup than you want to spend vs. a control unit. I have a 16ft Starcraft with both controls mounted and plenty of space. I will post a pic as soon as I can take one of it. The control unit for the 9.9 is very small, gives two levers for throttle and shifter. I would visit a hardware store other than Lowes or Home Depot for a cable to operate your choke which could be mounted in your dash. A 15 ft choke cable is going to be hard to find there. I think all they carry is 48".