Caliper replacement

[jlinder]

Here is an interesting one. I have a Four Winns trailer with a frozen caliper. I want to replace it (naturally). Replacement from factory - $200 plus, and will take about 10 days.<br /><br />Found out the caliper is the same as a Chevy Citation from about 1985. Cost from NAPA - $16.<br /><br />Problem. Chevy caliper connection for brake line is 5/16". Brake line is 3/16" and has metric threads. I cannot find a fitting that will go from 5/16" to metric.<br /><br />Thought there may be a brake man somewhere out there. Anyone have any helpfull suggestions?

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Caliper replacement

The supplier I use has hundreds of fittings to adapt different threads/fittings. I am confident that an adapter is available - but not 100% sure.<br /><br />What you need to look for is a brake wholesaler, not retailer.<br /><br />Has the caliper been stripped down and inspected? It may be reconditionable.<br /><br />BTW, always do the pair, never just one.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[jlinder]

Re: Caliper replacement

Has not been stripped down. Would like to find an expert who can, but at $16 for a replacement I thought why bother?<br /><br />I will check on finding a brake wholesaler or some expert.<br /><br />As for replacing both, first this one, then the next one next week.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Caliper replacement

You don't need an expert, if your handy with tools, you can do it yourself. If you like, I'll walk you through it.<br /><br />Or find the adapter - you're call.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[tommays]

Re: Caliper replacement

jack<br /><br />it sounds like you may have a kodiak caliper which uses GM pads but has special internal parts<br /><br />i cant see how a standard one is going to take the dunking<br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Caliper replacement

There is a rather simple solution. Buy a short section of brake line with the proper fitting to fit the replacement caliper. Any auto store has these available in a variety of lengths. Remove the existing line where it "T's" to go to the other side. Any brake shop can shorten the existing line, slip on a standard flare nut, double flare the end and provide you with a straight fitting that couples the existing line and the short section. Do the same on the other side. Bleed the brakes and away you go with enough green left in your pocket to buy yourself a couple of mugs of suds. Heck, for probably less than $100 bucks you can buy the flaring tool, the calipers, the line, and fittings and do the whole job yourself.

 

[jlinder]

Re: Caliper replacement

tommays,<br /><br />What is the difference between the kodiak and standard GM calipers?<br /><br />Remember, the factory says they are standard GM calipers (of course they are wrong)

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Caliper replacement

If there is enough tubing you could just change the origional nut to a new nut with proper threads. Anyone with a double flare, flaring kit, could do this for you. This can be done, loosing less than 3/8ths of an inch (in length at each caliper) of tubing. IF ya got the extra. Cut just the flare off the tubing (no extra) remove old nut, install new nut, then reflare.<br /><br />Wha La.....Brakes again

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Caliper replacement

Depends how old the brake lines are, they can get brittle over time which makes re-flaring difficult (the second press can crack).<br /><br />You guys up north using steel or copper?

 

[tommays]

Re: Caliper replacement

the tie down and kodiak are suppose to use different materials to stop from sticking from the dunking<br /><br />SS or bronze pistons ect<br /><br />maybe they did use a standard GM but i dont see how it would not stick pretty quick<br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[jlinder]

Re: Caliper replacement

Trailer is only 4 years old. Only dunked in fresh water.<br /><br />Wouldn't the piston cover protect it? Also, don't cars get the calipers wet in the rain, puddles, etc.?<br /><br />Dunarana - it is steel now. A replacement line is cheap. Not worth even trying to reuse. (Just a pain to break the rust free)

 

[tommays]

Re: Caliper replacement

well a splash it a bit different than a submersion<br /><br />i have found a least on boat trailers the covers do there best work KEEPING the water in after it leaks past them <br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[jlinder]

Re: Caliper replacement

Bit the bullet and went with the original factory replacement. Installed and bled the brakes.<br /><br />And bled, and bled, and bled. No more air bubbles coming out, but coupler still does not feel right. Coupler goes all the way in. It should go part way than stop. Notice 2 things. <br /><br />1, There is rust in the master cylinder.<br />2. When I push the coupler in there is what looks like a little squirt in the master cylinder.<br /><br />Suspect there is a leak preventing the master cylinder from building pressure. My guess is I now have to change that out now.<br /><br />Looks like the better way to go is to replace the whole coupler. The original is a Titan Aero-6000, but all I see listed is the Titan 60.<br /><br />Anyone know the Titan Areo-6000? Any reccomendations?