C-19 Lockdown Doing Tricks to Motors.-

[Sea Rider]

Had the opportunity to go back to my Boating Club to start the motor after sat unused since March 14 th, gee the tiller didn't move a bit, removed the bolt that controls the tiller load and sprayed WD-40, Carb Cleaner Spray, Decarbon Spray, let soak for one hour, same to no avail. Will remove the entire swivel bracket to properly clean and grease it...

As plan going for a full preventive maintenance, removed the carb, was found in excellent spotless clean shape due to run the motor's bowl dry after each outing. The Main Nozzle came out fast, when trying to remove the black rubber plug that seals the Slow Jet was found sitting even as in pic, the upper portion should remain out 1-2 mm as to remove the plug easily, will see if with a thin needle can be leveraged between plug body and carb tube.

Could the carb have sucked the plug in ? What if the rubber plug comes out in a bad shape, can the carb work correctly without it ?

Happy Boating

 

[pvanv]

No, you will need that plug.

 

[Sea Rider]

No, you will need that plug.

Which would be a safe procedure to remove it without harming the rubber plug ? Sits flat even on upper tube as seen in the pic. Never has happened so, I'm the only one servicing this motor and take precautions as to sit the plug with little force downward.

Happy Boating

 

[pvanv]

Maybe a jeweler's screwdriver. You could try blowing it out with compressed air. Otherwise you will need a new plug.

 

[Sea Rider]

Maybe a jeweler's screwdriver. You could try blowing it out with compressed air. Otherwise you will need a new plug.

Compressed air seems good alternative. for that to happen where should the air hose be placed for plug to pop off, will blowing compressed air though the main jet tube side to the plug tube work. The main jet and nozzle are out for the moment and don't have an extra new plug to replace as to remove the old one if comes out in a bad shape..

Happy Boating

 

[ahicks]

Before applying air and shooting that little plug into oblivion, place/hold a rag over it when applying pressure. Might save a lot of searching around on your hands and knees...

 

[Sea Rider]

Before applying air and shooting that little plug into oblivion, place/hold a rag over it when applying pressure. Might save a lot of searching around on your hands and knees...

Yep. thanks, was thinking same, will try two different methods before, one of them should work. If all three doesn't work as expected will leave it there as is, the carb has been working spotless throughout the whole throttle range...

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

New bummer tiller steering shaft is way stuck : it's incredible all the things that will be found when a motor is stopped for such long time, will add that patio day/night varying temperature did its nasty contribution too as to stuck both upper and lower swivel bracket's bushings that were well greased and working spotless before the sanitation lockdown. Which method of removal would you guys suggest to go for from the following three ?

-Squirt overdoses of WD-40, Carb Cleaner at both bushings necks, let soak overnight.

-Put the entire steering shaft and swivel bracket in a deep container and fill it with hot water and let it soak. Should soften the dried grease to be able to rotated the steering shaft sideways while pulling upwards to unlock both parts.

-Heat both on a small propane burner till heated enough to soften the dried grease for the steering shaft to work its way out.

Any other method ? Don't want to use a propane torch, could end being way invasive and screw both hard plastic bushings. The grease with which usually lube all rotating and sliding components is Evinrude's Triple Guard Grease which is fresh...

Happy Boating

 

[DeepCMark58A]

Black plastic enclosure around the motor should melt grease in your climate.

 

[Sea Rider]

Black plastic enclosure around the motor should melt grease in your climate.

Nope, we're not that hot, max 22º C in plain summer and 14/16º C in winter.. The issue is that only the upper and lower bushings were greased and not the whole steering hollow shaft's body. 4.5 month forced stop is too much time, the motor was previously run all year round at least min 2-3 times per week and could tiller drive smoothly with 3 fingers.

Sprayed overnight an overdose of WD-40 now is beginning to turn very hard to side, at least that's a small progress...

Happy Boating

 

[DeepCMark58A]

I don't do the metric system. The country I live in has a flag on the moon.

 

[Sea Rider]

No Creativity = No Progress :

1-The rubber plug was removed by tapping a narrow piece of 3M tape the one used to hang objects against walls on top plug while pulling it firmly upward and out. Will order some spare ones, was the only carb part that thought was not needed to have in stock.

2-Submersing the entire swivel bracket along steering shaft in a deep container with boiling water made little progress. Ended drilling several 3 mm (*) holes around the middle of both plastic shaft's upper and lower bushings, applied an overdose of WD-40 let soak over night, screwed the swivel bracket on a tall motor stand, crossed a long metal shaft through both shaft's eye holes ends.

One person twisted back and forth vigorously the upper transporting handle and another one did same on the lower shaft to unlock both bushings till rotated evenly, 4 strong hits provided by a huge hammer along a wooden chunk placed under the lower shaft portion did the trick pulling it out fast.

The steering shaft had soldered itself to the bushings and the bushings against the swivel bracket's circular walls. The steering shaft and the swivel's bracket's internals were brushed with a heavy metal brush to remove all traces of rust. Al rotating components will be properly greased with Triple Guard Grease before being assembled and installed at the middle leg.

3-I'm a firm believer that any motor used in salt water and stopped for months will have collected salt layers, crusts, doesn't matter how well you flush your motor soon after returning to terra firme on its last outing. This thermostat was cleaned to perfection 50 hours ago, be advised that this motor is flushed for at least 10 minutes with high pressure fresh water soon returning to the Club, check the salt condition it was found.....

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

Tested the swivel bracket on transom before being assembled to the motor, now well greased turns sideways with one finger, what a difference. With motor OFF, thermo removed and cap screwed back on made a 15 minutes high pressure water flush through the flushing port located side of the powerhead.

This is the best internal cleaning method than ear muffs or barrel flushing. Not all portable motor brands have a flush port on the powerhead, a + 1 for Tohatsu...

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

The only thing left to go for was a full carb check out. I'm not a big fan of changing a complete carb rebuild kit nor soaking carb in real dip cleaning solvents for long time periods. All metal carb parts can be restored to new working condition when soaked with acrylic paint thinner for less time, works as a charm if you like running carb dry when returning to terra firme which is highly recommended for 2 stroke motors if won't be used for the next 10-15 days.

Wanted to install a new 0. 80 slow jet, guess what, although old and new shares same stamped number the newer has a slight larger internal diam hole than the old one and will allow more fuel intake which can be counterproductive, so installed the old back in.

Took advantage to micro polish the slow, high jet interiors and the needle seat with wooden tooth-picks, sushi Q sticks and toothpaste which is the best micro polisher ever. This procedure will assure no more needle tip sticks along top sealing capabilities of the float and needle against the valve seat. Try it on your next carb maintenance, pics speaks for themselves...

Happy Boating

 

[pvanv]

Yes. Toothpaste is a great micro polish. We use Q-tip swabs instead of sushi Q...
in the US...

 

[Sea Rider]

Yes. Toothpaste is a great micro polish. We use Q-tip swabs instead of sushi Q...
in the US...

Some people say that toothpaste will harm things, that's because they have never before micro polished any metal with it. The issue with standard Q-Tips swabs is that are too flexible, small and available in small lengths, don't work well for my current crazy OB applications.

Wooden skewers and sushi sticks in different diams and lengths works much better reaching deep hard to reach areas, smoothing out surfaces while not scratching anything or turning them into wooden swabs to soak them with whatever solvent you like cleaning parts with. Ideal for poking deep holes, scraping off salty water passages, micro polishing, shinning needle valve seats, you name it....

Happy Boating

 

[km1125]

Does that diode stop the gas from flowing backwards??







( just KIDDING!! )

 

[Sea Rider]

Does that diode stop the gas from flowing backwards??

( just KIDDING!! )

Yep, it's what's looks like, LOL !! Tried many small diam things to poke through the tiny orifice and all failed, the diode was the only metal object that confirmed the Go no Go.. Find incredible that 2 same size 0.80 jets comes in 2 different sizes which is crazy and turns the newer one into being useless...

Happy Boating