buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

vipertblck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
205
Hey all. I?ve been lookin? around for a while now in the search for my first boat. I?m not looking for a big powerhouse boat, just a 19-20 foot with a 6 cyl, trying to avoid looking at v8; so the power and beating on the boat won?t be tremendous. Been posting on here links to boats I?m coming across as to any input on them, but really how do you know what to look for? Figured in addition to posting boats as I find them, I?d post this as well with some concerns and questions I have, or what I SHOULD have in terms of inspection. I?ve listed some things I?ve come across while reading, as well as terms or questions I have?

1) When I go look at a boat, I crawl all over trying to find soft spots in the floor, I?ve been reading that the ?stringers? can rot as well. How can I even get visual of these? Should this be a concern when purchasing a 1990?s or newer boat? Also I?ve read this can potentially cause engine misalignment as well if the mounts have rotten wood?
2) I climb underneath and check the bellow boots for cracks or tears. As well as visually inspect the hull for any spider cracks or such. From what I read there should be ZERO cracks of any sort in the hull exterior..
3) How often is an outdrive expected to last, I read about people replacing them. If properly cared for and shaft lubed, and oil changed annually, why wouldn?t they last the life of the boat? How do I look for signs of a bad outdrive? Also misaligned cables that can potentially damage the outdrive, how do you know if the cables misaligned? If I do purchase a boat I?m assuming the service manual will guide me on how to adjust cables, but I wanna know how to inspect them while in the field inspecting the boat.
4) Engine couplers-how long are these expected to last? I was on a boat once when one failed; it acted as if the clutch just let loose! This was a 68? Sea Ray though so it definitely had some age to it; but I?ve been reading of folks with 1990?s boats with around 400 hours and their coupler failing? There?s no way to inspect this when shopping is there?
5) Greasing the coupler shaft; what does this mean? I understand greasing the two u joints in there just as you would on a vehicles driveshaft, but what is greasing the splines? Are they actually telling you to put chassis grease on the outdrives splines that slip into the engines flywheel?
6) What preventative maintenance should be done annually? I?m reading a lot about ppl pulling their outdrives off and checking alignment? Does that mean just the 6 nuts and yank that sucker off, or is it just the lower portion of it? Then checking alignment is that just putting the tool in through the gimble bearing into the flywheel, and ensuring it slides freely, of which not adjusting the engines stance? Also what is expected annually, obviously greasing u joints when outdrive is pulled, but changing engine oil, but is there only one oil throughout the whole outdrive too? How about the outdrives ?water pump/pickup?, is that a preventative item to change?
How long does it average folks to get their outdrive off during yearly maintenance when greasing u-joints or changing bellows, gimble bearing, whatever it may be?

Thanks in advance everyone, I just wanna buy something I know I can handle when it comes to maintenance and repairs, as I?ll be doing the work myself. Hopefully I?ll gain a lot of knowledge from everyone here and make a good, smart purchase when the right boat comes along.
 

redfury

Commander
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
2,655
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

In general, when looking at a boat you are going to want to inspect the hull for spider cracks and osmosis blisters ( bumps in the gel coat like a blister or hive ). If the hull is still nice and shiny all the way to the keel on an older boat, then it's likely it's not a boat that sits in the water for days on end. if the interior is still in good shape and doesn't have any debris ( or signs of it ) like leaves, seeds, pine needles, then it's likely been kept covered or inside. You will also want to look for less seen issues such as a keel that isn't straight/flat. A bow or a inverted dip will cause stability issues/porpoising.

As far as the mechanicals, a clean engine compartment is always a plus, but you aren't always going to get that. As far as the maintenance on non outboards, there's a laundry list of things to maintain yearly, but I don't nor will I own anything with an I/O in it, so I can't speak to that. I'm sure others will chime in.

In regards to rest of the hull integrity, a "soft spot" in the floor is almost always a sure sign of larger issues. If you have options, walk away from boats with them. The soft spot is from water soaking up into the foam under the floor and rotting it out from underneath.

There isn't a good way to check stringers, you have to make assumptions based on the boat you are buying. Some older chrysler boats used foam under the floor, no stringers. Other manufacturers have all fiberglass stringers. Newer Glastrons are built using VEC technology which created excellent hull integrity, almost making it a monocoque hull.
 

KnotConnected

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
221
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

I got my boat last August, and a few things I've learned:

A good marine surveyor will use a tool to detect water content in the hull. This is a *Very* good idea, as it will show signs of soft spots or rotting that could lead to huge problems. Also, compression check, checking condition of plugs and look for signs of leakage around seals / cracks in hoses all good things to watch for.

If all the through-hull fittings don't have TWO hose clamps, then it likely wasn't worked on by a qualified mechanic.

Don't be afraid to try & test *everything* before cutting a big check.

Look for signs of corrosion on the out-drive. I just dropped $3,500 on a new lower unit due to corrosion issues. (see picture below). A set of anodes are generally around $50, a lower unit is MUCH more. If the anodes are worn and the previous owner didn't put the effort into protecting his / her investment, that's a pretty good sign of how the other less-apparent stuff was taken care ofi.
http://www.boatus.com/Assets/www.boatus.com/BoatTech/img/July/Outdrive 1 (Small).jpg

If the boats missing small things or small things are broken, "oh, that cabin light broke a long time ago and was never fixed" or "the horn doesn't work, never did since I've owned it" that's a pretty good sign that someone didn't care enough about the boat to put the work & money into the small things. ...again, how do you think they took care of the bigger stuff?

good luck!
 

vipertblck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
205
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Great info, thanks! Now what if I do come across a boat with spider cracks or things like that in the hull(I've seen tons of boats with this). Is that considered NOT normal and to be an issue?
 

vipertblck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
205
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Excellent input, thanks again. As for our corrosion issue, WOW that's the worst ive ever seen. And what are these anodes you talk about? I've seen the term before but dunno what it/they are..
 

Slip Away

Lieutenant
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
1,431
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Wiki explanation:
A galvanic anode is the main component of a galvanic cathodic protection (CP) system used to protect buried or submerged metal structures from corrosion.

They are made from a metal alloy with a more "active" voltage (more negative electrochemical potential) than the metal of the structure. The difference in potential between the two metals means that the galvanic anode corrodes, so that the anode material is consumed in preference to the structure.

The loss (or sacrifice) of the anode material gives rise to the alternative name of sacrificial anode.

There will be several anodes on most outdrives, here are a couple.
AnodeTrimCylinders.gif
 

vipertblck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
205
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

So those are all the "aluminum" looking parts on the outdrive? I think I know what your referring to, the descriptions states there multiples ones all over the outdrive? How do they wear out, how can you check if their no good? Is it just a visual thing?

Thanks again this is great info from everyone. This is exactly the kinds of things I was looking for so I know what to spot when searching for a boat. Hopefully everyone will keep chiming in as they have been, that way I can compile a list with all this stuff when I go to look at a boat and will have a better understanding of the flaws to spot. As I'm only 26 I hope I can gain much knowledge over the years and really benefit when time comes for repairs or upkeep.
 

emilsr

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
774
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

You've got a good, comprehensive list here. Well done. I'll take a crack at it.....

1) When I go look at a boat, I crawl all over trying to find soft spots in the floor, I’ve been reading that the “stringers” can rot as well. How can I even get visual of these? Should this be a concern when purchasing a 1990’s or newer boat? Also I’ve read this can potentially cause engine misalignment as well if the mounts have rotten wood…

Yes, rotten wood absolutely should be a concern looking at 90's and newer. Wood is typically used in both the stringers and transom (structural components of the hull); if you find any rot you should pass on that particular boat. As mentioned previously, surveyors often use a moisture sensing tool. A survey is the best money you'll spend on a used boat.

2) I climb underneath and check the bellow boots for cracks or tears. As well as visually inspect the hull for any spider cracks or such. From what I read there should be ZERO cracks of any sort in the hull exterior..

Not necessarily. Minor spider cracking in the gelcoat isn't uncommon. Again, a competent surveyor can tell you if there are problems with the hull or just cosmetic issues.

3) How often is an outdrive expected to last, I read about people replacing them. If properly cared for and shaft lubed, and oil changed annually, why wouldn’t they last the life of the boat? How do I look for signs of a bad outdrive? Also misaligned cables that can potentially damage the outdrive, how do you know if the cables misaligned? If I do purchase a boat I’m assuming the service manual will guide me on how to adjust cables, but I wanna know how to inspect them while in the field inspecting the boat.

If treated properly, a drive can last as long as the engine. Look for service records and/or pay a competent marine mechanic to go through the mechanicals (won't necessarily be included in a survey). While in time you'll probably learn to do much of this maintenance yourself, your first boat purchase isn't really the time to learn.

4) Engine couplers-how long are these expected to last? I was on a boat once when one failed; it acted as if the clutch just let loose! This was a 68’ Sea Ray though so it definitely had some age to it; but I’ve been reading of folks with 1990’s boats with around 400 hours and their coupler failing? There’s no way to inspect this when shopping is there?

As far as I know there's no way to check. They do go bad from time to time. Part of owning an I/O boat.

5) Greasing the coupler shaft; what does this mean? I understand greasing the two u joints in there just as you would on a vehicles driveshaft, but what is greasing the splines? Are they actually telling you to put chassis grease on the outdrives splines that slip into the engines flywheel?

Yes. That's what it is. Part of annual drive maintenance. There's a specific grease you should use.

6) What preventative maintenance should be done annually? I’m reading a lot about ppl pulling their outdrives off and checking alignment? Does that mean just the 6 nuts and yank that sucker off, or is it just the lower portion of it? Then checking alignment is that just putting the tool in through the gimble bearing into the flywheel, and ensuring it slides freely, of which not adjusting the engines stance? Also what is expected annually, obviously greasing u joints when outdrive is pulled, but changing engine oil, but is there only one oil throughout the whole outdrive too? How about the outdrives “water pump/pickup”, is that a preventative item to change?
How long does it average folks to get their outdrive off during yearly maintenance when greasing u-joints or changing bellows, gimble bearing, whatever it may be?

Yes, that's the gist of it. Replacement interval on the water pump's impeller will vary; I know guys running in silty water that do it every year, but generally it's a 2-3 year maintenance item.

Pulling the drive requires some muscle (or a drive stand) but is an easy job otherwise....10 minutes maybe.
 

vipertblck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
205
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

As my search still continues, I'm coming across "jet boats" such as Yamaha or Sea Doo makes. Are there advantages to these compared to the std. I/o setup? Should I consider jet boats or steer away from them?
 

Volphin

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Jun 5, 2011
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1,405
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

If looking at used units, always have the engine looked over by a competent mechanic, preferably the man you intend to have repair it in the future. Get a detailed report on noted wear and engine compression...
 

Slip Away

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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

I would not put Stingray in the "higher up" category of boat builders. They are lake boats, with a hull built for speed not comfort, and are priced at the lower end for affordability.
As with any boat, the current condition determines if it is a good buy or not, as well as if the boat fits your needs.
 

vipertblck

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

I guess this would be more for local guys knowledge. But primary use would be on Lake Geneva in Wisconsin. My main concern was the age, and if there were any "issues" with older models anybody may know about. Aside from general care and maintenance which will be apparent how well it was performed over the years, when i go and look at it.
 

Slip Away

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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Lake Geneva can get a little rough in sections with larger boat wakes, so a 17 footer will take some care on where you go. There are boats that size there all the time, so generally you should be okay with that hull, when it is near flat conditions. Just keep your dental insurance up to date :)
 

Chief9

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Feb 26, 2013
Messages
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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

The heavier the better in my limited experience. Stingrays are light boats and not at the top as far as quality is concerned.
 

vipertblck

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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Nothin "bad" about the Stingrays as an overall manufacturer though? Or downfalls that should be looked at before purchasing?
 

Slip Away

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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Simply put, you get what you pay for (or can afford)
 

OrangeTJ

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Aug 16, 2012
Messages
95
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

As my search still continues, I'm coming across "jet boats" such as Yamaha or Sea Doo makes. Are there advantages to these compared to the std. I/o setup? Should I consider jet boats or steer away from them?

There are advantages and disadvantages with any drive system, jet drives included. How those stack up relative to what matters to you is dependent upon how/where you plan to use the boat. I have a 2011 Yamaha SX210 and love it, but I recognize that it isn't some magical "perfect" boat. PM me if you'd like my thoughts on it.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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18,083
Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

Mercruiser 3.7 . . . those motors tend to have a history that you can read about here on iBoats.

Stingrays are economy boats, take that anyway you would like in terms of quality. They tend to be light for their size.

More importantly, it is a 1989, so it is an older boat. . . Check the structure and transom for signs of rot, etc.
 

eavega

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Apr 29, 2008
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Re: buying my first boat. advice/inspections/pointers?

I have the same hull (1988 176 SVB) with the Mercruiser 3.0 L 135 HP instead of the 3.7 L 165 HP. As previous replies inidicate, the boats are light which means they are fast, but tend to bounce around a bit in chop. They also don't track as well as they should at slow speeds. On the plus side they are compact (I keep mine in the garage), they maneuver well at speed, have enough kick for watersports. They are easy to trailer and load/offload. The Inline 4 is fairly conservative on fuel. I can get two 6-hour trips on one 20 gallon tank of gas. It seats 8, but you probably won't be happy with more than 4 adults and maybe two kids on the boat absolute tops. It does have a cooler in the port bow seat which drains out of the boat, and storage underneath the starboard bow seat. The ski locker is cavernous. The motor sits up pretty high and is easily accessible for any work you have to do. I've not had a problem getting to any serviceable component yet, and so far I have replaced the thermostat, replaced the temp sender, changed the ignition over to electronic from points/condensers, installed a fuel-water separator, changed the motor oil, and done various adjustments to different components. I haven't found myself yet in a situation where a component or a fastener is out of the way or impossible to reach. Mine was a boathouse queen that supposedly only saw about 10 hours of use a year, so I figure it has less than 300 hours on it, and was marina maintained. Even with all of that I still had to replace a bunch of the seat bottoms that had managed to collect water over the years and were fairly rotted out. Other than little maintenance issues (like the temp sender and the thermostat) I haven't had any real problem with the boat. We are hoping to keep this one for a while, since it does fit in the garage almost perfectly. If I give in to two-foot-itis its going to require me to either cut a hole out of the back of the garage or pay to store it elsewhere.
If you go look at this boat, I would suggest that you really get down into the ski locker and look for any structural problems, look at the motor mount and especially where the trim motor mounts to the deck for any indication of rot. Also, be sure to look at the threads here on iBoats referring to the 3.7 Mercruiser. I'm sure the additional HP would make this boat fly, but I am glad I have the more common 3.0L on this boat.
Good luck

Rgds

Eric
 
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