Building a lift pad

[Tail_Gunner]

Well the season is over and its time for a ambitous tinkering job. This winter i will be doing some engine work and ecm reprogramming. It has taken me a yr or so to get where i am comfortable with this.

Along the way ive read to much and have concluded that build a pad would be quite challengeing so im going there. THe boat is a 19' 20 degree v about 3100lbs wet. The inner chines end about 36' from the transom and at wot that is where she balances.

So i am very serious about building a 10 to 12" (width) pad 48" from the transom forward. Simple enough to use and form 2x6 lumber and glass it up and again simple to attach it to the hull.

I know it will have to be laid out with precison and also understand it will have to flow water with no cavaities or voids....Any thoughts out there or ideals..

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Building a lift pad

Yeah! If you don't cut it into the hull you will be adding a lot of drag. And, if you taper it from rear to front, you will be building in a hook. Modifying a hull like this is not a job to enter into lightly.

You state it is a challenge then later state it will be quite simple! Wrong! Done correctly, it will be a complex engineering task. Done incorrectly and you may end up with a poorly performing and even dangerous hull.

Besides that, I think 48 inches may be too short--depending upon hull length. Look at other hulls with factory built pads and see how long they are. The pad on my 20 footer is about 6 feet long.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Building a lift pad

Ayuh,.... I see it like Frank,...

You need to Remove from the keel line, not add to it....

Major undertaking...

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Building a lift pad

Yeah! If you don't cut it into the hull you will be adding a lot of drag. And, if you taper it from rear to front, you will be building in a hook. Modifying a hull like this is not a job to enter into lightly.

You state it is a challenge then later state it will be quite simple! Wrong! Done correctly, it will be a complex engineering task. Done incorrectly and you may end up with a poorly performing and even dangerous hull.

Besides that, I think 48 inches may be too short--depending upon hull length. Look at other hulls with factory built pads and see how long they are. The pad on my 20 footer is about 6 feet long.

Not aruging but i can flush it in.... with the hull...no problem..spent 15 yrs working with wood...more like taper it from front to rear. At wot the stern already chine walks @ 55....The bottom is not sharp but concave...The last 48 inches would be the pad area in factory form it balances on the last 3'...It could take 7' to allow the pad to gently enter the stream.

Yes the excution will be simple the design thats another story...But as with most things we tend to over think things....And a angle grinder makes short work of under thinking.. I have looked closely at a fountain hull now that is amazing piece of work...But if you look the pad is not flat at all. but counter balanced by the chines..Talk about irregular surface area and seamless transition..There remarkalbe

Here is where i am caught in for now...The height of the pad and what happens if it falls off the pad.......I am well aware of those problems

I intend for the pad to be flat level on the bottom of the v....Im just troling for now..Next week im building with some foam to see just how much molding there is.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Building a lift pad

Ayuh,.... I see it like Frank,...

You need to Remove from the keel line, not add to it....

Major undertaking...

Can you explain remove the keel line?....By sharpening it if that is what you mean creates friction from what i have read...That only adds to drag...