Broken Spark plug

Berkley1

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Jun 21, 2024
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I have 200 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI TBI engine with a broken spark plug the ceramic came out in one piece, but the threaded part is still in the head been soaking it for a week with Kroil penetrant and tried easy outs no luck any suggestion would be appreciated.
 

Berkley1

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Ayuh,...... If those ideas don't work, pull the heads, 'n bring 'em to a machine shop for a rebuild,....
Looks like they are going to a machine shop I have never pulled heads on a VP 5.7 any advice on pulling the head?
 

Horigan

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Reduce the torque on the head bolts incrementally. Don't remove bolts completely with others at full torque. It makes the last few bolts very difficult to remove.
 

Bt Doctur

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have you tried a 6 point socket? If yes, and you stripped the hex, then the machine shop is your only escape
drain the block and manifolds remove plug wires and dist
remove intake bolts ,remove old gaskets, remove intake
Per Horigan, remove the head bolts then remove the head
 

Berkley1

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have you tried a 6 point socket? If yes, and you stripped the hex, then the machine shop is your only escape
drain the block and manifolds remove plug wires and dist
remove intake bolts ,remove old gaskets, remove intake
Per Horigan, remove the head bolts then remove the head
I have removed the exhaust manifold and riser on the affected head will I need to remove the other exhaust manifold and riser also?
 

alldodge

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Remove distributor and then intake.

Get a cardboard box and punch 8 small holes. When removing rockers and push rods put rods in holes and rockers next to them in order
 

Lou C

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All good suggestions, to which I'll add keep your parts organized when you dis-assemble, and clean, clean, clean. Take pix of things that believe it or not are not 2nd nature once they have been apart for a while.
When re-installing the head, clean out the cyl head bolts in the block and make sure that the head bolts will thread all the way in before installing the head.
When I did mine, (overheat damage, blown head gaskets) the cleaning took the most time, cleaning the block deck and all the cyl bolt holes. I also replaced all the head bolts, because the originals were rusted (raw water cooling) and might not have given accurate torque when re-installing. Time spent in this step is very important, done right you will get many more years of use from the engine.
If this engine has a lot of hours on it, it might be a good idea to pull both heads and have the shop check them out, that can give your engine a new lease on life.
 

cyclops222

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DO NOT LET any parts DROP into the engine !!!! Loads of engine work could then be needed to find & remove.
If a part does drop in ?? Beg or buy a LONG powerful skinny magnet to try and get lucky finding the part.
 

ESGWheel

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Springboarding off Lou’s recommendation about cleaning > for the threaded bolt holes use a thread chaser, not a tap. Here is a video describing the difference and the why link. Chase ALL the bolt holes, including the exhaust and intake manifold ones on the head. And do not forget to do the non-removed head intake bolt holes, although I am with Lou on pulling that other head and taking both in for a look over.

And like tapping, when using thread chasers, back off occasionally and use a lube. This is covered in the video as well. And thoroughly flush and blow out the bolt holes when done. Brake Clean and compressed air does the trick (wear safety glasses) and if no compressed air while the Brake Clean will evaporate get a couple of those cans of compressed gas used to clean keyboards and dust off things to get out any remaining debris. Having a proper and clean threads if key to a proper assembly and cannot be overstressed.

And do not forget to clean off the bolts themselves again with a thread chaser / wire brush. Better yet get yourself a “kit” of new bolts and gaskets for the Manifold / Risers. And then take two of the old riser bolts and cut off the hex heads to create a couple of studs to assist in assembling the exhaust manifold. They will hold the gasket while you position the manifold onto these studs and make it a whole lot easier. See post #18 of this link for some more info on this.

Other prep work is to fully understand the methods and torquing requirements for reassembly. One aspect is the low torque values for the manifold, risers and even the initial torquing of the head bolts. It’s like 20ftlb and using a 150ftlb torque wrench is not recommended. I try to target one where the final applied torque is in the 50% - 75% range of the wrench being used.

And speaking of torque, the cylinder head bolts are degreed to their final setting. That means they are (after an initial torque setting) turned so many degrees vs. a final torque value. From an engineering perspective it’s a more precise method of creating the proper clamping force. So you will need a degree wheel, like this one link. Also here is an older post on all of this, link.

Finally do your research on proper cylinder head gasket. Others will be able to provide the proper advice on a ‘marine’ head gasket, as I not gone down this path yet.
 

Lou C

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Agreed 100% on the thread chaser. Hard to find!
I had to go from auto parts store, to auto parts store, to find them.
Where I found them was at Paramount Tools in Farmingdale Long Island, in the shadow of Republic Airport, supposedly they actually made machine tools for Grumman Aircraft Engineering and Republic Aviation. This goes back a long way as you can imagine. A nice tool store to visit!
So I now have 7 years on my top end overhaul and it's still running well, good compression test results and oil analysis results too. Done right, it can add a lot of time to your engine life, and cost wise if you can do it yourself, not expensive in the grand scheme of things.
Thinking back the things that took the most time was getting the intake off, those OEM gaskets were baked on like Kryptonite, maybe due to the overheat, and cleaning out the bolt holes, so that all the new ARP head bolts would thread in all the way easily. 4.3 reman cyl head 2 small.jpg4.3 with re-man heads installed..jpg
4.3 manifold removal.jpg4.3 starboard cyl head removal.JPG
I recall thinking after I pulled the first head off, uh....maybe this wasn't such a good idea lol.
 
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ESGWheel

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Oh, one more thing: Spark Plugs > To Anti-seize or Not.
This may be a conversation starter on its own, regardless I do use anti-seize on my plugs being careful to not get any near the electrode end, i.e. I apply starting about 2 or 3 threads back fm the end and it’s a thin amount but complete by using my finger to spread it followed up by wiping with a paper towel if too heavy. I also avoid getting any on the gasket / seating surface. This will help avoid trips to the machine shop 😊
 

Lou C

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I have never really had trouble with the plugs seizing but I use AC Delco marine plugs which do not corrode, which I have seen with NGK and Champion, so if you can use the AC plugs, do so.
Also if you have any raw water leaks anywhere, fix them promptly!
I'm in a salt water region and the boat has been moored in salt water for about 20 seasons, so you REALLY have to stay on top of corrosion issues.
 
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ESGWheel

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...I use AC Delco marine plugs which do not corrode....
Thanks Lou. I did not know about these, they state they are nickel plated, so makes sense on the corrosion front. I did a quick check and could not find them for the 5.7 but will keep looking (as well as for my 5.0).
 

alldodge

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All plug manufactures make nickel plated plugs. So far as GM 5 and 5.7 it's either mr43t or mr43lts , non vortex and vortec
 
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