Bravo three drive leaking gear lube

[Leardriver]

I got the alarm yesterday while underway, quickly ruled out low sea water psi and engine overheat, and found the gear lube reservoir low, so the alarm did its job. The reservoir was full when I started. I have never used a drop on this 107 hour boat, and the reservoir was empty.
So, put it on the trailer, saw a leaking stream of lube up high on the outside near the shift cable. Looking at the parts fiche, there are a couple of fittings that it could be, some easier to access than the others.

Hit the messy spot with a quick blast of carb cleaner and pressure washer to clean and help identify the leak source, refilled the reservoir inside the engine compartment.
Came out this am expecting to see a drip stream, but nothing apparent. I guess the outdrive is slightly pressurized while underway, and the leak is tiny, so not enough pressure to make the leak show itself when it's not running.

So, my question is.....can I insert a low pressure air compressor blower nozzle into the gear lube reservoir to help force the issue and make the leak show itself? Maybe 8 psi regulated at the nozzle?

2004 Sea Ray 270 Sundeck 8.1 OM672099, drive B3 OM701661

 

[alldodge]

So, my question is.....can I insert a low pressure air compressor blower nozzle into the gear lube reservoir to help force the issue and make the leak show itself? Maybe 8 psi regulated at the nozzle?

Yes, but start at 5 and watch the lube bottle
With it leaking up by the shift cable check your bolts holding the drive, they may be loose

 

[Bt Doctur]

the oil hose could be going bad or is loose where it connects to the gimbal
the plastic oil, fitting can be cracked and oil is running down the hose from the transom

 

[Leardriver]

Ok, I'll put a gentle puff of air into the reservoir and see if I can get the leak to show itself, and check the drive bolts just to be sure. Looking at the parts diagram, I'm not sure which fitting it would be.

 

[Leardriver]

I can pull that heavy drive off if it would help visualize the problem better. Do you think that is necessary?

 

[alldodge]

I can pull that heavy drive off if it would help visualize the problem better. Do you think that is necessary?

It might, if it is leaking behind the drive. You mentioned it was leaking (my understanding) about the lube bottle connection on the outside of the drive. The outside can only leak if the bolts are loose and the o-ring is leaking

 

[Leardriver]

I hear about a fitting that goes through the transom and has an E clip on the back, and it tough to access to re-install the replacement. The 5 bolts holding on the drive are tight.

 

[tpenfield]

Supposed to be 6 bolts holding the outdrive :noidea:

Can you post up a picture or illustration where you saw the lube leaking from initially?

The gear oil connections are my least favorite thing to deal with, as they are hard to reach.

 

[Leardriver]

Six bolts, all 5/8 heads. I fat fingered a five. I will apply some air and get it to leak, and the fix should start to become apparent.

 

[Leardriver]

Drive is off. Took 14 minutes. Hoping that reinstall is half as quick. My gimbal bearing is a rust bucket. Thrilled to discover that and have a chance to replace that and the o-ring seals and drive shaft o-rings. It is over 110 degrees in my barn, just can't stay in there long enough to find the leak yet.

 

[Bt Doctur]

close to 100 here on the east coast too

 

[alldodge]

Have an alignment bar?

 

[Leardriver]

I ordered one, along with the Sierra 21005 kit with the gimbal and orings. I won't have parts until Thursday, which is fine, because I found a way to sprain my ankle walking on level ground.

 

[Leardriver]

I need some confirmation that my geometry is correct. I inserted the alignment bar, and it was a very tight fit. Obviously needs an alignment adjustment.

I greased the coupler end thickly, marked the top of the tool with a marker so that I wouldn't inadvertently twist it, and inserted straight in and out.
The grease on the bottom of the tool bar was wiped clean, meaning closer tolerances on the bottom.
I repeated the test, got the same result.

My brain says that the coupler is pointed high, meaning that the front of the engine needs to come up. The bottom edge of the coupler is therefore high, and making contact and wiping the grease off. I inserted a one inch pipe before the alignment bar, and got the same impression.

I plan on adjusting one half turn each side, from the bottom bolt, raising the engine, and checking until I get an effortless fit and twist.

Am I on the right track with the bottom of the tool wiped clean?

 

[alldodge]

I would think the opposite but you will know quickly. Always recenter the gimbal with each adjustment

Sure you know, don't adjust mounts with bar in the coupler