Brake Pad Brand Suggestions for Tow Vehicle

[SeaDooSam]

Hi all!
What do you all recommend as far as brake pad brands. They will be going on a 2015 Ram 1500. The truck does a decent amount of towing jet skis and boats. Powerstop good?

Thanks

 

[fishrdan]

I didn't have much luck with PowerStop, pads or rotors.

I use Bendix Fleet Metlok pads on my 01 Durango, towing 3000# in mountainous terrain. First set lasted 5-6 years and the rotors wore well, so I went back with them on the next brake job. They work well, but a bit noisy at times, light brake squeal when just coming to a stop, doesn't do it all the time, comes and goes.... I'll be using them again when it's time for the next brake job.

I use EBC rotors which have been great, and EBC rotors/pads on the car. EBC parts are made in the UK or US, so no China guessing game on quality.

 

[Scott Danforth]

cant go wrong on EBC,

 

[alldodge]

Don't get carbon metallic unless you want to clean brake dust off the wheels. They stop great but look bad most all the time.

 

[NYBo]

Unlike fishrdan , I have been very happy with the PowerStop pads and rotors on my 2007 Ram 1500.Price for the complete package (front and rear) was quite reasonable through Amazon, and they have performed well. But my towing needs are modest. Note that PS makes a number of different packages.

Here's what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FL2T3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[briangcc]

I had Powerstop on my '04 GMC Sierra. The rotors delaminated in under 10k miles. I wouldn't go near them.

 

[NYBo]

I had Powerstop on my '04 GMC Sierra. The rotors delaminated in under 10k miles. I wouldn't go near them.

How can rotors delaminate? They are solid metal, aren't they?

 

[briangcc]

They were flaking large chunks between the drilled holes and the cut slots. And it was deep into the rotor. To the point where it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. Both rears although the fronts showed signs as well.

Won't go near them again.

 

[alldodge]

I placed drilled and slotted rotors on my previous 2500 and they worked great, but during one of my tire rotations the 2 front ones had spider cracks from the holes. Replaced them with regular and have not had an issue since. Don't remember what brand they were

 

[TyeeMan]

If I don't get pads and rotors right from the dealer I'll go to Napa. That said it has to be Napa's top of the line best stuff to get really nice braking and rotors that don't rust up.

One mistake I made was on the car I drive to work, my Merc Grand Marquis. I needed front brakes, top of the line Napa rotors were in the area $120.00 each, so I opted for the next step down which were around $80 each. The pads were Napa's best.

Yeah, I should have spent the $120/pc or gone to Ford cuz the middle of the road rotors are ok at best.

On our 08 Burb I installed Napa's best pads and rotors and it brakes very nice and smooth.

 

[NYBo]

They were flaking large chunks between the drilled holes and the cut slots. And it was deep into the rotor. To the point where it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. Both rears although the fronts showed signs as well.

Won't go near them again.

Ah, disintegrated. Yeah, drilled and slotted rotors can be problematic. I haven't had any issues but I don't drive the truck much and my towing is now about 150'. But I like the stopping power. If the need arises, I will be switching back to regular rotors. The PS pads are probably what improved my braking. I needed rotors so the package was the most economical way to go that I found.

 

[bruceb58]

Akebono Ceramic pads and Centric rotors are what I use for replacements on every vehicle I own.

Will never use drilled or slotted rotors ever.

 

[Lou C]

Agreed with not using slotted or drilled. If they are not on an OE app like a Merc/Benz, Porsche or BMW, then you are asking for trouble because the original design did not allow for the holes.

I have used Wagner rotors and Wagner pads on our old '98 Jeep with good results, I am looking for a good set of rotors that will not rust up for my next change (the 2007 Grand). Any suggestions?

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Being in the auto repair business I’ve thrown away more aftermarket drilled and or slotted rotors then I’ve left on. The proverbial racing rotor is not what you buy for your grocery getter or tow truck. Race car rotors make a few laps and get thrown away.

Brake pads on something 2005 and newer genuine dealer pads will usually outperform anything aftermarket in every aspect. Next would be akiobono. Napa’s high end ceramics are decent pads but they are usually not any cheaper than factory. There low end pads the box they came in make better parts trays then the pads do for stopping.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I am so glad I read this...I am getting ready to do brakes and rotors on my F150 and I was seriously considering slotted rotors. I’ve used ceramic pads for years with good results (the factory non-ceramic pads created terrible brake dust all over the wheels), so I will go with ceramics but I guess I will stick to OEM rotors.

 

[StingrayMike]

cant go wrong on EBC,

X2 for EBC. I swapped out to them and WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Really glad I did. Stopping is so much easier/better when hauling the boat.

 

[porscheguy]

To really know where your brake pads stand, you’ve got to look at the brake pad edge codes. These are a two letter code mandated by the DOT on all friction materials. They will be painted on the brake pad somewhere. The codes are EE, FE, FF, GG, and HH. The first letter corresponds to the friction level when cold (250F) and the second letter is when hot (600F).

EE and FE pads are generally the low cost economy pads. The majority of pads fall into the FE or FF category. FF pads are mostly very good. These are what you’ll see for heavy duty/premium grade pads. GG pads are a step above FF. Sometimes you may see GF, which falls between FF and GG. Finding GF or GG pads isn’t easy and maybe not even possible on older vehicles like my truck. On newer vehicles, finding them shouldn’t be as difficult.

HH pads are carbon ceramic. No one is using them on their trucks.

 

[Bondo]

That said it has to be Napa's top of the line best stuff to get really nice braking and rotors that don't rust up.

Ayuh,..... I've been usin' Napa branded brake parts for longer than I care to remember,......

Napa runs 3 grades of products, Good, Better, 'n Best,......

For rotors, 'n drums, I go with Napa, Best,......

For pads, 'n shoes, I go with Napa Better,.....

The Napa Best pads are too hard, which causes rotor/ drum scouring, 'n squealin',....
By goin' with the softer Better grade, the rotors/ drums last a much, much longer time,....

'n btw,.... All drums, 'n rotors rust up, when not used,....... especially in salted northern environments,....

 

[SpitAndDirt]

Wagner Thermoquiet Pads are all I use anymore because they seem to have the best compromise between stopping power, noise, wear, and the best part: the brake dust is so light that it never appears to collect on the wheels.

​​​​​​RockAuto normally seems to have the best price, followed by Amazon. You can also buy them at Advance Auto but you will pay at least 30% more and AA normally has to get them from their nearest warehouse. I don't think they keep them in stock at most stores.

 

[harringtondav]

I am looking for a good set of rotors that will not rust up for my next change (the 2007 Grand). Any suggestions?

I don't think there is such a thing Lou, unless someone makes SS cast rotors. Most, maybe all, rotors are cast iron. They will rust.

I have a non-mechanical pal who kept his Toyota wagon in a humid garage under a blanket most of the time. His 'Sunday' car. He noticed his rusty rotors, and took it to the Toyota dealership. They were glad to rail him for $700 for new pads and rotors all around. I told him all he needed to do was drive the thing for 1/2 hr in stop and go traffic, and they'd shine right up.