Re: Bogging down at high throttle
A (tobacco) pipe cleaner will clean the small brass idle feed tube. I like to spray every passage with WD 40. Remove the idle needle and spray through that, noting that WD should come out all the small idle circuit holes in the top of the carb casting.
Remove the float and inlet needle. Thoroughly clean the inlet and elbow fittings, seat and needle. Be careful not to damage the seat and needle. If your carbs have the screw in seats, remove them to clean the inlet passage. Be certain there is no crap in the inlet which could intermittently clog the inlet needle and seat.
When you reassemble the carbs, invert them and using the center brass tab set the floats to be level with the casting. NOW, turn them right side up and using the stop tab at the back, set the DROP so the float almost touches the brass jet on the bottom of the casting. These two steps are critical as the float level determines how rich the carb runs and the float drop determines how much fuel gets into the carb. If these settings are not correct, no matter how you play with the needles, the engine will not run correctly. For example: If the float drop is not enough, the engine will idle but run out of fuel at high throttle settings. If the float level is too low, you will need to set the idle mixture needle way too rich and the engine will sag at speed.
If you have a quick-connect fitting at the tank, check it for partial clogging.
And, as always, buy and install a cheap plastic fuel filter between the fuel pump and carbs. This keeps pieces of a deteriorating diaphragm or possible broken button valves from cobbling up one or more carbs and causing engine damage. I like the ones with a fine screen in them rather than a paper element