Boat won't start

[08gt185]

Hey all, Not sure if this should be posted here or in the electrical forums. Just need help diagnosing a no start issue.

Boat has not ran in 4 years. Only because it had been in storage in another state. I knew the battery was dead so I went and picked up a new one today. Got it hooked up and a bunch of weird things started right away. Sounded like the bilge pump was running even though the switch was off. So I disconnected that wire from the battery.

Anyway turn the key and got a click. Several more turns of the key and it actually cranked but wouldn't start. Then right back to a click here and there.

Tried jumping the starter. Not even sure if I'm doing that right. Got loud clicking and then nothing on the same posts then loud clicking and nothing again.

Before I have to dump a ton of money can you give me any suggestions? It's an 08 Mercruiser 3.0.

 

[SkiGuy1980]

You might want to check the ground connections on you battery cable. I'm sure the mechanics on this site will have better tips, but I chased that one for quite a while.

 

[nola mike]

Yeah, first order of business is definitely to check all of your connections -both ends- particularly at the battery, starter, solenoid, main engine ground. There's a sticky in the adults only section outlining which terminals to jump to see where your problem might be. But definitely start with the main wiring.

 

[nola mike]

Here ya go, and welcome :welcome:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...hooting-your-engines-starting-system?t=167035

 

[Scott Danforth]

Clean all your battery cable connections

Replace your raw water pump

Replace your bellows

Go thru your fuel system as fuel after 4 years is now sludge

 

[TurtleTamer]

Are you just trying to start it as-is? There isn't any info provided other than that it sat for four years and you replaced the battery and tried to start it. It could be just about anything. If the motor hasn't turned over in four years then it might just be locked up. You'll surely get just a click from the solenoid if that's the case. See if you can turn it over by hand. If the motor turned freely by hand then you might have a bad starter. They've been known to rust up in four years of sitting. If you haven't completely gone through the entire fuel system then even if you get it to turn over it'll never start. A sitting boat, for more than about a year, can count on basically needing a restoration. All connections cleaned, all fluids changed, all fuel drained, fuel system cleaned, carb rebuilt, fuel lines replaced, complete tune-up, and possibly riser(s) and manifold(s) replaced. Think about the other things too like impeller, raw water pump, etc.

 

[extremez]

Hey all, I'm the OP. Had problems figuring out my password and email that was associated with the site.

So I ran out of time yesterday to troubleshoot and probably won't be able again til Friday. Thanks for the troubleshooting link. I have a test light and jumpers and of course a VOM.

So at work today I asked my boss who's also a boater some questions. He's always been an outboard guy but he suggested spinning the prop and if it didn't spin that may be a sign the motor isn't locked. I always seem to remember the prop always spun freely. Anyways it does. Maybe that's just an outboard thing he's describing.

I'm assuming I can try turning the motor manually with a ratchet and breaker bar if needed. Also wasn't aware that there may be a slave solenoid on top of the motor to jump.

With the tank being below the deck of the boat, what would be the easiest way to drain it? I seem to recall something about an anti siphon valve. Could I somehow activate the fuel pump to drain it? I need more youtube videos and a wiring diagram on this motor.

 

[sogood]

Easiest way to drain the tank is to remove the fuel sender gauge from the top of the tank and pump the fuel out. Raise the front of the boat, if I it's on a trailer and pump from the lowest point of the tank, back by the fuel pick up. I use a piece of metal brake line to get back down into the lowest corner. A 12volt pump is available for this purpose or you could pump by hand with a primer bulb. Make sure to seal the sender unit watertight when re- fitting to avoid water getting in.

 

[H20Rat]

So at work today I asked my boss who's also a boater some questions. He's always been an outboard guy but he suggested spinning the prop and if it didn't spin that may be a sign the motor isn't locked.

I'm assuming I can try turning the motor manually with a ratchet and breaker bar if needed. Also wasn't aware that there may be a slave solenoid on top of the motor to jump.

I wouldn't take his advise... Spinning the prop will tell you nothing about the motor. It will free-spool if it is neutral, it will most likely lock in one direction and ratchet in the other if it is in gear. You won't be able to turn an engine over by spinning the prop, not without damaging the prop &/or drive.

Turning an engine over with a breaker bar can get expensive. You can snap the crank bolt fairly easily, and the instant that happens, you now have a very big problem to fix. It can be done carefully though, just don't get ham-fisted on the breaker.

 

[extremez]

Update
Got the boat started. Was able to turn the motor by hand.

I'm not much of an engine guy. Maybe I should take some classes. Anyway I went to turn it over and it was just click, click, click, click. Not like the one click before. Well not being an engine guy, prior to yesterday I didn't know the ignition had to be in the run position in order to jump the starter. So I left it in run and jumped the terminals and she started cranking over. Stopped and pumped the throttle 5 times and jumped it again and she started right up. Let it run to temp. Shut it off and she started again without jumping. Could it have been a stuck solenoid? Also is it possible on this year ('08) to not have a slave solenoid? So she lives. for now.

Couple things I've found out. I had thought the only way of getting to the fuel tank was to pull the top shell of the boat off. Now I know there's a neat little cover plate that was hidden under the sliding cooler tray. Good to know since the fuel and fuel lines will need to be replaced. So the tank was filled prior to storage. What would cause the gauge to show 1/4?

Lot's of questions. Not enough time. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[QBhoy]

Was it winterised ?

 

[extremez]

Yes. 4 years ago before I moved to a different state I winterized it. Filled the tank and added stabilizer.

 

[Scott Danforth]

clean your connections. the click click click is bad connections. while it may start now.... it will most likely come back and bite you and leave you stranded.