If it runs on 12 volts and not 110 then I would take the 4 screws out that holds the fridge in place then slide it out. Now check all connections in the back ,including the circuit board and any spade terminals that may be attached to it. Probably can google Orca fridge troubleshooting and maybe come up with more info. I had the same issue with another , 110 didn't work ,and it was simply a spade connection that had a bad contact. Before discovering it I purchased a 110 to 12v 300 watt dc convertor [ most wattage I could find for about 30.00 ] that I was going to tap into the 12 volt section .Then plug it into the dedicated 110 volt plug behind the fridge. That way I could still operate the 110 or 12v system separately by the control panel. Replacement units run 7-800 and up.