Black Max 150 - Why did it blow?

techhome

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May 24, 2012
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It was smooth as glass. Running WOT on the Severn River in my 86 Whaler Outrage 18 when the original 85 carb’d oil injected Black Max 150 started to sound different, then quit. Trying to restart resulted in the instrument lights dimming; the motor didn’t even think about turning over. The sun had set, no other boats around and we were thankfully close to the ramp. After 15 minutes of paddling, I re-tried the motor and much to my surprise it started and we idled to the boat ramp.
The blown motor had obvious damage on #4; badly scored cylinder, top ring broken and a chunk of piston missing. Other cylinders looked fine.
I have (2) parts motors, a 1983 factory pre-mix Black Max 150, that I’d previously stripped down to a long block and a 1984 Black Max 150, that a previous owner had converted to pre-mix. The 83 looks cleaner to me and I want to go pre-mix. So my in-motion Winter project plan is to dress the 83 with all parts from the failed 85 motor, slap it on the transom and be ready by next Spring. I’m a shade-tree mechanic with very little 2-stroke experience, and thus value the sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this board. I want a good result with a reliable motor I can count on to get me home.
I pulled the heads on the 83, and the motor looks very clean internally. Comparing the 83 and 85, there are some obvious differences. Both are carb 2 liter 150s, but the 85 is oil injected, the 83 a factory premixed model. The heads are different, 2-piece on the 83, 1-piece on the 85.
  1. Any thoughts on probable cause for failure to #4? Carb problem resulting in not enough lube to #4? Or could the cracked ring be the cause?
  2. Is my plan ok? That is to dress a premixed 83 2 liter with parts from an oil injected 85?
  3. Should I rebuild the carbs? How do I know when carbs need to be rebuilt. The motor was a bit hard to start, but once warmed would idle fine and ran great.
  4. Should I re-use the original heads on the 83 block or transfer the 85 heads over?
  5. Any other words of wisdom?
Doug
Annapolis, MD
 

wired247

Lieutenant Commander
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Oct 8, 2011
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Why the rush to reuse 30 year old oil injection components? Can you figure out how to premix your fuel? Might save you another motor. Keep it simple when using old parts.

I think you went lean in one cylinder and burned the piston up. Broken reed, clogged carb etc.. Could be a dislodged ring locator pin too. Its old. Feel good it lived this long then build it new again.
 

techhome

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May 24, 2012
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Thanks, Going pre-mix for sure. The 83 long block is a pre-mix engine, no provision for a crank driven oil pump. I'd planned to strip the oil injection off the other motor too, but it blew before I got around to it.

Any thoughts on the need to rebuild carbs? I'm thinking yes, if it a faulty carb could have caused the #4 failure... Anything else I should check out? It would be no big deal to remove the reed box and inspect or replace the reeds, but I read that reeds seldom fail.

Doug
 

CVX20SPRINT

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Sep 9, 2009
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Oh man I started reading this and saw Severn River and you had a bunch of spare 2.0 parts.I'm in need of a few pieces for mine and thought maybe it was my lucky day.Anyway there's a Severn River about 15 mins. from me,but obviously not the one you're talking about.I'm in Ontario,Canada.
 

wired247

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rebuild the carbs. Reeds seldom fail but you'll get a little better performance and a better idle out of some Chris Carson reeds
 

Dukedog

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Thanks, Going pre-mix for sure. The 83 long block is a pre-mix engine, no provision for a crank driven oil pump. I'd planned to strip the oil injection off the other motor too, but it blew before I got around to it.

Any thoughts on the need to rebuild carbs? I'm thinking yes, if it a faulty carb could have caused the #4 failure... Anything else I should check out? It would be no big deal to remove the reed box and inspect or replace the reeds, but I read that reeds seldom fail.

Doug

Without being able pin point tha reason need ta do several things. Fuel delivery parts. Fuel lines, bulb, filters, fuel pump, bleed lines and carbs. All need ta checked and/or replaced, cleaned/kits. Any timing modules/limiters trashed. Two new switch boxes. All other 'lectrics need ta be checked with either dva and/or ohm meter. All new coolin' stuff if there's any doubt about tha condition. Just remember its All old parts. They ware out. No guarantee's another part might give up at any time.......jmo

JAN. One piece, lost foam heads didn't come out till '88/'89......If they can be "cleaned up", surfaced without takin' to much off, I'd use those. They run a little cooler than two piece...
 
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techhome

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May 24, 2012
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Thanks for all the advise. Trying to balance getting a good result with cost. Carb rebuild kits are $$$. End goal is a motor I can trust, though. I will likely leave the reed box alone but rebuild the carbs and replace all soft parts, fuel lines, wp impeller and the like.

To the fellow in Canada, yes, I will have a bunch of parts I don't need. Let me know if your needs are easily shipped. In addition to (3) full 2.0 motors, I also have a 4th midsection and two other foots. All need some sort of work, but I've got lots of usable parts; LMN

Oh and interesting that the newer heads are not original to the 85 motor. The serial number does indicate an 85, but the previous owner said $2000 worth of work had just been done to it. Perhaps newer heads, perhaps a newer powerhead?

As for head surfacing, is this something I should have my local machine shop do? Or can I clean up with a razor and check for flatness on a slab of granite. Both the lost foam heads and 2-piece heads look in excellent shape.

Doug
 

Dukedog

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99% of tha wh series carbs (yours) will only need a good cleaning and NEW gaskets ta straighten 'em out. Those type kits are under 10 bucks each. As long as heads are not beat up and "flat" your good...........
 

snowbrd84

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Sep 23, 2012
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Are any of those parts motors a 25" shaft? I keep my boat over in Mayo, MD and am looking for a 25" shaft lower unit with the spacer to swap out in place of my 20" that is just too short for my boat. Let me know...
 

techhome

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May 24, 2012
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Happy Day, Engine is running great in the driveway. Two questions before I sea trail:
1. Throttle cable adjusted iaw the factory manual with a slight preload against the idea stop. But, full throttle at the helm is short of full throttle at the engine. Normal, or is there an adjustment I?m missing?
2. Under the switch boxes is a circular cover. When running, a bit of water pulses out of a small hole on this cover. Never noticed this on the old motor. What is this cover, and is it ok for water to be coming out?
Project highlights:
1. Compression test was good on the 83 Black Max 150; I stripped it down to a short block and it looked fine internally.
2. Used the 1-piece heads from the 85 as advised on this thread
3. Used fuel & ignition system from the 85; went through the fuel system thoroughly, rebuilt carbs, fuel pump, etc
4. Bought a TDC dial indicator and did timing/synchronizing/adjusting by the book
5. Dumped in some 50:1 turned the key and she fired right up!
Doug
Annapolis, MD
PS: Still have a ton of clean used Black Max parts, let me know if you have needs?
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Full throttle at the helm should be more than needed to get full throttle at the motor. You have Mercury controls? Is it possible the throttle stop adjustment is stopping you from reaching full carb opening? That is what normally limits the throttle lever movement.
 

Dukedog

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2. Under the switch boxes is a circular cover. When running, a bit of water pulses out of a small hole on this cover. Never noticed this on the old motor. What is this cover, and is it ok for water to be coming out?

that's tha poppet.. needs cleaning and new kit installed....water from tha little hole is a warning its gone south......
 

techhome

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May 24, 2012
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Thanks, I will learn how to service a poppet, whatever it does... Controls are Merc, yes. No adjustment that I can see for increasing cable throw. I adjusted the WOT stop such that is is just shy of bottoming out the butterflys. Issue is not enough cable throw from the helm. AFAIK they are the original controls that were rigged with the 85 Black Max 150 in 86 when the boat was purchased.

Doug
 

Dukedog

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on tha V6 those years won't make any difference with controls and/or cables... did ya move tha barrel nut at tha motor any?
 

techhome

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May 24, 2012
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Yes, I moved the barrel nut to give a slight preload on the idle stop in neutral. Figured it's more important to get down to idle than to WOT.

Doug
 
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