Bilge pump wiring

Hoppi84

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So i have a shoreline 850 gpm with built in float. So 3 wires(black=negative,red=auto float switch, brown=manual). I have power through a perko switch to a fuse block. I have power from fuse block to a 2 pin rocker switch and the brown wire to the other pin on switch. I ran the red to the battery with a fuse. The auto switch works like wired above but the rocker doesnt. But if I disconnect the red with fuse from battery I can manually turn it on from rocker switch. I want them both hooked up so is it my wiring, switch spst on off, or possibly the bilge pump itself?? Thanks
 

alldodge

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You wired it correctly by connecting 2 power sources to pump. Red wire thru float switch and brown wire thru manual switch

This pic also shows an alarm also connected
Bilge Man Auto.jpg
 

Hoppi84

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So i guess i just disconnect the red if i want to use the manual switch?? Would a 3 way switch keep both running without disconnecting my red to battery??
 

alldodge

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So i guess i just disconnect the red if i want to use the manual switch??
No

The wiring above allows either the float switch (which is inside your pump housing) or the manual switch to turn pump on. From your first post it read like you already wiring it correctly, so I'm not understand the issue :unsure:
 
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Hoppi84

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The issue is when its wired like the wiring diagram you posted or I mentioned in op i have to have the red wire disconnected to use the rocker switch. With the red wire connected the auto works but kills the rocker switch or manual. Sorry for any confusion
 

alldodge

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This being a new pump I would first think it's miss wired

Going to need to fund the wiring diagram for your pump. Might be 2 of the wires are swapped. Will look and get back later
 

Hoppi84

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Heres the diagram that came with pump. I flipped the red and brown but not the black. Thanks
 

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rolmops

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You mentioned a perko switch. when that is turned to zero your bilge pump will not work. It does not matter if your boat sits on a trailer when not in use. If you you have your boat in a slip it is a better idea to have the automatic part hooked straight to the barttery.
 
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KJM

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I have the same setup without the perko switch. My float switch is straight to the battery with an inline fuse, the neg is also straight to the battery. The rocker switch is from fuse panel up front and goes straight to bilge pump bypassing float switch. I spliced the wires from both separate circuits into the two wires from the bilge switch after the float switch.
 

dingbat

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You need a 3 way switch to have manual (override) and auto mode on a single switch

Can either wire power to pump and switch ground for control or... wire ground to switch and switch power for control

51NxqkTJgVS._AC_UF350,350_QL80_.jpg
 

Hoppi84

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The perko switch is for all accessories on the fuse block. If I turn it off itd cut power to my manual switch. I can get the auto to work by flipping it over but not with filling it up with water. Another thing if I have the manual switch working and pump running if I hook up my red wire with fuse to battery it kills the switch. I tried wiring it up with just the pump wires and i run into the same issue. I have my negative from pump going to the fuse block so i may try running it straight to battery also. Appreciate the responses...
 
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dingbat

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The perko switch is for all accessories on the fuse block. If I turn it off itd cut power to my manual switch.
Bilge pump circuit should be wired directly to the battery to prevent this situation
I can get the auto to work by flipping it over but not with filling it up with water.
Sounds like bad pump switch
Another thing if I have the manual switch working and pump running if I hook up my red wire with fuse to battery it kills the switch. I tried wiring it up with just the pump wires and i run into the same issue.
Your shorting the manual and override circuits connecting them together. You must have a 3 way switch for it to work.
I have my negative from pump going to the fuse block so i may try running it straight to battery also.
It doesn't matter, Ground is Ground.
 

KJM

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Bilge pump circuit should be wired directly to the battery to prevent this situation

Sounds like bad pump switch

Your shorting the manual and override circuits connecting them together. You must have a 3 way switch for it to work.

It doesn't matter, Ground is Ground.
Not to argue, but you don't need a 3 way switch. Mine works fine with 2 way switch on one circuit and float switch on other circuit that is direct wired to battery and by passes the 2 way toggle switch, so that it is always able to turn on if water rises in boat. Alldodges diagram is like what I have just no alarm. If you use a three way switch you would always have to remember to put it in automatic when you are leaving the boat, wouldn't you?
 

dingbat

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Not to argue, but you don't need a 3 way switch. Mine works fine with 2 way switch on one circuit and float switch on other circuit that is direct
Good engineering practice dictates not powering a circuit from multiple power sources. Too many things can go wrong

Prefer to wire a single power source to a dry location (back of switch) then use the 3 way functionally of the switch to distribute power as needed
If you use a three way switch you would always have to remember to put it in automatic when you are leaving the boat, wouldn't you?
Not sure I understand......why would you take it out of auto mode except for a few seconds to check for water if you don't have a bilge alarm?

I can count the number of times I've overridden the auto bilge function in the past 10 years on one hand.
 

KJM

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Good engineering practice dictates not powering a circuit from multiple power sources. Too many things can go wrong

Prefer to wire a single power source to a dry location (back of switch) then use the 3 way functionally of the switch to distribute power as needed

Not sure I understand......why would you take it out of auto mode except for a few seconds to check for water if you don't have a bilge alarm?

I can count the number of times I've overridden the auto bilge function in the past 10 years on one hand.
 

KJM

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I'm sure your way works fine. But it can be done with a 2 way switch. I keep all wires, esp the splices out of the bilge to keep dry. I just like the idea of knowing my automatic bilge can't be screwed up by an incorrect switch setting if nobody is aboard. To each, their own!
 

dingbat

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I just like the idea of knowing my automatic bilge can't be screwed up by an incorrect switch setting if nobody is aboard. To each, their own!
Still don't understand your logic.

I'm using a 2 position, 3 way switch. The exact same functionality as yours. It's either in auto mode or manual (running)

How do you prevent yours from being left in run position when you leave the boat?
 

KJM

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Still don't understand your logic.

I'm using a 2 position, 3 way switch. The exact same functionality as yours. It's either in auto mode or manual (running)

How do you prevent yours from being left in run position when you leave the boat?
Ok, i misunderstood. When you said 3 way switch, I thought you meant a switch that had manual/ off/ auto. "off" meaning both float switch and manual are not working. And you are right, mine could be left running in manual when I leave the boat. Sorry for the misunderstanding!
 

dingbat

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Ok, i misunderstood. When you said 3 way switch, I thought you meant a switch that had manual/ off/ auto. "off" meaning both float switch and manual are not working. And you are right, mine could be left running in manual when I leave the boat. Sorry for the misunderstanding!
In hindsight, I should have clarified by stating the use of a SPDT switch.
 

harmanoff

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Mine is the same setup, SeaFlo, amazon had the 3 way switch Auto/Off/Manual (hold down to pump out) it made it alot simpler
 
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