Grand Larsony
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2008
- Messages
- 221
Ok, I sure thought I had this one licked but... as sometimes happens on older boats... confusion now reigns!! 1989 Sea Ray 300 Sundancer (not that this is a Sea Ray specific issue).
Forward bilge pump (under aft cabin) was found in an "on" state (running) when it was in auto mode at the helm switch. All bilge water was already long gone, so I figured the separate float switch was stuck in the closed position and still sending it power. I temporarily cut one of the two leads to the bilge pump to shut it off and went to pick up a new float switch.
In preparation to install new switch, it's NOT what I expected... I temporarily cut the two leads to the float switch and, when touching the severed lead to the pump, BOTH of these leads turn the pump on... as does the original lead that was connected (what should be the "manual" operation power feed). This is the case even with ALL the dashboard wires disconnected from the switch and from each other (they're ganged in pairs to the two poles on back of dash switch). Switch operation makes NO difference whatsoever either when wires are connected. At all times both the red (manual) and green (automatic) switch lamps remain lit (even when the still-ganged wire pairs are removed from the back of the switch (I think ?... it's hard to remember this last part).
I've looked up diagrams, etc. and -- especially since I'm not altering the original design -- that hasn't really helped. I understand how it's supposed to be wired.
So, honestly, I'm now completely confused -- do I have some sort of wacky connectivity going on here (e.g. bundled wires with chafed insulation forming a rouge connection path)?
I'll try to swap the front bilge wires to the aft bilge switch and vice-versa to see if that helps but I'm not hopeful. The wiring is identical visually between fore and aft switch setups.
I may also have to mock it all up at the helm with temp wires btw the dash switch, pump, and float switch (to eliminate the wiring between dash and forward bilge)... but I'm really hoping to avoid running new wires between as it's really a tough run from what I can tell.
FWIW, I found the pump stone-dead last year. Simply replacing it fixed the issue, but now I'm wondering if it ran itself to death due to this (potentially intermittent) issue. When I reinstalled the new pump it was perfect for the rest of the year, and it was fine in my slip for nearly a month this year until now. The only change at that time was the pump and it's two wires. Nothing else.
Very weird. Any suggestions? I'm stumped.
Forward bilge pump (under aft cabin) was found in an "on" state (running) when it was in auto mode at the helm switch. All bilge water was already long gone, so I figured the separate float switch was stuck in the closed position and still sending it power. I temporarily cut one of the two leads to the bilge pump to shut it off and went to pick up a new float switch.
In preparation to install new switch, it's NOT what I expected... I temporarily cut the two leads to the float switch and, when touching the severed lead to the pump, BOTH of these leads turn the pump on... as does the original lead that was connected (what should be the "manual" operation power feed). This is the case even with ALL the dashboard wires disconnected from the switch and from each other (they're ganged in pairs to the two poles on back of dash switch). Switch operation makes NO difference whatsoever either when wires are connected. At all times both the red (manual) and green (automatic) switch lamps remain lit (even when the still-ganged wire pairs are removed from the back of the switch (I think ?... it's hard to remember this last part).
I've looked up diagrams, etc. and -- especially since I'm not altering the original design -- that hasn't really helped. I understand how it's supposed to be wired.
So, honestly, I'm now completely confused -- do I have some sort of wacky connectivity going on here (e.g. bundled wires with chafed insulation forming a rouge connection path)?
I'll try to swap the front bilge wires to the aft bilge switch and vice-versa to see if that helps but I'm not hopeful. The wiring is identical visually between fore and aft switch setups.
I may also have to mock it all up at the helm with temp wires btw the dash switch, pump, and float switch (to eliminate the wiring between dash and forward bilge)... but I'm really hoping to avoid running new wires between as it's really a tough run from what I can tell.
FWIW, I found the pump stone-dead last year. Simply replacing it fixed the issue, but now I'm wondering if it ran itself to death due to this (potentially intermittent) issue. When I reinstalled the new pump it was perfect for the rest of the year, and it was fine in my slip for nearly a month this year until now. The only change at that time was the pump and it's two wires. Nothing else.
Very weird. Any suggestions? I'm stumped.
