Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

[Jamesakers]

Before I begin with my problem, a bit of history is in order. I bought the boat with the motor about 4 years ago. The motor is a 1974 Evinrude 135 hp Starflite. First time out it idled rough and stalled. When I took it to the marina, a compression check revealed something had come loose and scored a cylinder. The marina (which has since went bankrupt) told me that they were going to bore cylinders and overhaul the engine, which cost a chunk of money. Since this repair, the motor has always idled very rough. Sometimes, out of the blue, I would lose a cylinder, only to get it back about 10-15 minutes later. Never could figure this out. <br />Now for my main problems. A few weeks ago, I found when the engine was warm, I would start the motor, and it would die when I gave it the gas. Upon inspection, I found that the timing advance under the flywheel was sticking just enough to kill the engine. After several cans of WD-40, it loosened up to where I could run it. However, the very next day, I heard a “ping” when I was running WOT. To my shock, I discovered that three of the four bolts that hold the carb intake housing in place had vibrated out, and I had sucked the lock washers through the engine!! I removed the heads, and found that (1) the marina had bored only one cylinder out to .033” over, and never even touched the other cylinders. (2) I found one of the washers welded onto the top of the one of the pistons, and had scarred the head pretty bad. I knocked off the lock washer, and dressed the surfaces with a file and emory cloth, and re-installed the heads. My compression was surprising – even miraculous – 145,145,138,152. When I fired the motor up, it runs very rough, and although the cylinder heads are cold to the touch, the flywheel is HOT! Also, it has practically no power. Any thoughts? My intuition tells me, that I have more than one problem. Could the pounding of the lock washer caused damage to a crank bearing, or something? Is it common to bore only one cylinder out and not the rest? Would this not make the motor run out of balance? <br />Any help – at least where to start would be greatly appreciated.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Hi Jamesakers<br /><br />Try to remove all sparkplugs and turn flywheel by hand. I think you might have an upper bearing failure causing flywheel to rub against magnetos. If I remember right the upper bearing might be replaceable without disassembling motor all the way. Good to hear your cylinders and pistons are fine.

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Replacement overbore pistons are commonly made to weigh same as standard bore, allowing this practice (which is approved in both OMC & Merc service manuals).

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Leaving fasteners loose and leaving out the thermostats, however, is NOT approved practice. Get yourself a manual and carefully check over the setup on that motor. Sounds like multiple problems.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Jamesakers<br /><br />I once read a thread about upper mainbearing bolts getting loose on some of these models. Dont remember if it was on the 60 deg models. If they were not experts in tightening/ locking bolts, your upper bearing may be rattling about and flywheel touching magnetos. Hot flywheel was caused by rubbing magnetos in every fault i have seen.

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Thanks a bunch for the insight G DANE and ledgefinder. I appreciate the input. Everything I have done so far, has been at the end of my pier. Since I am down to my last 7/16” wrench, I better work my way to the boat ramp about 2 miles away when the wind dies, and begin work in the driveway. <br /><br />I failed to mention something else that confuses me. After the lockwasher issue was discovered, and I pulled the plugs, I found that the top two plugs had a faint white residue on them – I figured that was fairly normal. However, the bottom two plugs were black, and wet with fuel. I figured it was time for a carburetor rebuild, but I began to consider something else. Since I lose a cylinder about 5-10 minutes after start up, and get it back later, could it be that the thermostat has failed? I pulled the thermostat out and took it to a local marina. The mechanic took a look at the stem, and said it looked fine. However, when I put it back into place in the housing, I began to hit resistance, when I had about ½” to go to seat the housing. I feel like when I tighten the housing, I am depressing the spring and the nylon seat that allows water to flow through the engine. Could it be that the mechanic was full of it? If (1) I am indeed compressing the spring and the nylon seat due to a thermostat stuck open; (2) water circulates around the bottom two cylinders first, before it circulates around the top two cylinders, I have a hunch that the bottom two cylinders would take a longer time to warm up. This may be the reason that I have lost cylinders only to get them back for the LAST FOUR YEARS! Does this sound feasible?<br /><br />Thanks a lot you guys/gals, this site is awesome!

 

[Hooty]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Sounds like ya'll pretty well have a handle on everything. I will add however that the white on the top to plugs could either be water from a leaking head gasket or, if the white residue is dry, it could be caused by a lean running condition.<br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

The residue on the plugs on the top two cylinders is white and dry. I always thought that it was better to have a slight lean fuel/air mixture, as opposed to a rich mixture -- especially with 2-strokes. It is my understanding, that the high speed and low speed jets are factory set on this model. I am waiting on my manual to arrive, before I dive into the unknown. I must commend the members of this site for their help. Although I have worked on and rebuilt 4 stroke engines all my life, I have been "dumb" when it came to outboard technology. You people have truly "cleared the fog."

 

[even125]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Hi James, at best I am a bush Mechanic but I do know that it is not better to run an outboard with even a hint of leaness, if any plug is white on my motors it lights a fire up my butt and i find out why, better to run on the rich side all the time. Those fixed jets if original are fine usually but a dirty carbie emulates a carbie with undersized jetting that can mean the possibility of a lean mixture somewhere in the rev range. Before the ingestion problem where you running lean because of the loose bolts? Good luck I will leave the rest to the experts on this site. I pull the plugs after every trip to check (once bitten twice shy) even125

 

[BillP]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Dry and white plugs is not water. It sounds way too lean to me. <br /><br />How did those parts get through the reed valves without damaging them? Did you check the reeds?

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Thanks for the feedback on lean mixtures. I guess that I made a bad assumption since I kept losing a cylinder or two all these years. I figured that if I fouled plugs so easily, then leaner was better. <br />When I confronted two different marinas about losing a cylinder, they had the same answer, “all those @#$% surface gap plugs do that. They are made to run W.O.T. and they just foul out when you idle them. You’ll just have to put up with it. Let’s see, that will be $24.00 for four new plugs.” I later found out that I could buy them at Autozone for $1.50 each! Needless to say, I have been getting a very poor impression of marine mechanics in my area.<br /><br />As far as the reeds go, I haven’t checked them, but I figured since I have good compression, that they are all right. Is this also another one of my stupid assumptions? Maybe I should just tear the whole thing down and start from scratch. How do I check the reeds without tearing the thing completely apart?

 

[G DANE]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Hi again James<br /><br />Broken, chipped or open reed does not affect compression. I would tear that motor down and be sure every bolt is tightened properly. After that clean carbureators really good, disassebling them and letting soak in carb cleaner over night. I wouldnt take rod bearings apart, only returque every one and go back from there. Borrow or buy a manual first. I did the same once after someone messed with a motor I bought, only to find one nearing not turqued properly. It wouldnt have run for long that way. You know why they went bankrupt now dont you !!!

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Hello Everybody! Hey... Who makes the best manual for this motor? Price is not an issue, I just want the best.<br />James

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

For the job you're about to do, forget the Seloc/Clymers style and get the OEM one for your exact engine/year/model.....

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

What is the most convenient source for an OEM Manual? Can I order it online? <br />Thanks in advance,<br />James

 

[rrichard]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Here's where I get mine...<br /> http://ww3.kencook.com/evinrudejohnsonmanuals/

 

[Mike Langianese]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

I just ordered from:<br /> web page <br /><br />The outboard wizzard (http://www.theoutboardwizard.bizhosting.com/parts_service_and_owners_manuals.html) if the link doesn't work.<br />OEM from Evinrude, $40 plus $5 for shipping hope this helps<br /><br />Mike

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Hey James,<br />I just noticed that you're just west of the 'Fort, what a ka-wink-key-dink. I spend most weekends on Golden Lake (3 miles SW of I-69 and Rt. 20 in Angola). I've never had a chance to fish Crooked Lake. Pehaps I'll run into ya sometime. Good luck with the motor.

 

[Jamesakers]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

Since I was on the forum asking questions about what size motor to buy, and someone asked about my old junk motor, I thought that I would give everyone that has helped me an update.<br /><br />I tore the engine down a few weeks ago with my trusty OEM manual at hand, and discovered that the crankshaft was broken in half -- apparently due to the lock washers. I began to shop for parts and a used crankshaft (thanks Joe). I began to shop a little too premature, cause when I began to clean up the crankcase and block, I discovered that when the seal rings broke and came apart, they ate into the ring seal surfaces on the crankcase and block very badly. They cut grooves into these surfaces about 3/16" of an inch thick. Now, after just parts and a used crankshaft -- not including the crankcase and block problems, my parts list has grown way out of hand. This doesn't even cover the stator and timer assembly that was bad -- plus damaged leaf assemblies. Soooo... I guess I am in the market for a newer used outboard. <br /><br />Thanks everyone for all your help! You guys are the greatest!!<br /><br />James<br />The two happiest days in a boaters life:<br />(1) the day that he buys it<br />(2) the day that he sells it

 

[93bronco]

Re: Big Evinrude Problem - Where do I start?

ebay your parts or---<br />get another motor like yours off of ebay.<br />thats only if you think it was a good motor.<br />-<br />hopefully soon (6 to 8 mons)ill be buying a new boat- been looking at the sea swirl stripper 2103 D/C OB, & will probably go with early 90s 225.<br />only because i wont need a computer program to work on it.<br />and its similar to the 120/140 to work on.