BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

[TonyMeno02]

I recently went on a fishing trip and the green light on the dash appeared and then shortly after the red light and an alarm went off and stalled the engine. I noticed that the water wasn't coming out as fast and then shut it down. We drifted for a while then started it back and the water was running out. The green light remained lit then the temp light and alarm sounded and stalled the engine again. It was quickly shut down. The water was still running out. It was allowed to cool then started and no water came out. I cut it off and was towed. I changed the busted impeller and ran it again. The water came out fine but the green light is still lit. 8up posted another question for me on another problem I seem to be having. So far I have heard nothing but good things about Honda engines, but after looking at this web-site I'm not so sure. Help!

 

[scotty c]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

green light is your oil pressure light which should be lit when you engine is running.<br />the red light is your overheat alarm, and<br />it would appear that the impellor was the problem.<br /><br />as long as the telltale is peeing water and the green light is on, you are running normal.<br /><br />i believe most Honda's have an overheat shutdown<br />that kills the engine befre serious damage is done.

 

[BF130]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

Originally posted by TonyMeno02:<br /> So far I have heard nothing but good things about Honda engines, but after looking at this web-site I'm not so sure. Help!

Whenever anyone has an issue with their motor they will commonly go out onto the net and search out a solution prior to or to avoid paying for a dealer repair. That is why you see these posts. All of us who aren't having problems are here to try to help you fix yours - very charitable and also many times very interesting. By comparison, I would say that the sheer number of motors out there far outnumber the posts you see here - by about a million to one. Honda has been making 4S motors since the 70's.

 

[TonyMeno02]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

Well, we took the boat out this weekend and it ran great. No fish though! It was one of the easiest change outs I have ever done. On the BF130, 2000 model, you take 5 nuts off the bottom of the lower unit,(no need to remove the trim tab bolt) then tap on the top of the lower unit with a rubber mallet and it should slide all the way down and out with no pins or linkages to remove. Try to keep the shaft straight the whole time while pulling it out to avoid bending the shaft. I found that having an extra hand there helped a great deal. It is not that heavy but it is kind of awkward.

 

[dannyodo]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

Is it easy to replace the water pump impellor. I just bought the boat and ran the engine with some sand in the water. The engine is no longer "peeing".

 

[BF130]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

It's not difficult for someone who is mechanically inclined. The only real watchout is that the drive shaft is rather long. So you'll likely need to have the motor trimmed up so that the shaft can be removed from the intermediate housing. If you don't already have a repair manual - buy one.

 

[dannyodo]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

I bought the manual. I am mechanically capable, but not very experienced. If the boat is on a trailer on level ground, can I release the lower unit and lower it to the ground on a thick blanket and sponge. Can I work on the impeller in that position OR do I have to completely remove the lower unit and shaft? Thank you. Danny.

 

[BF130]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

I did mine a year ago, so my memory is vague. As I remember, the shaft is connected to the lower unit and the impeller is installed onto the shaft. So you'll need to get the lower unit completely out of the intermediate housing then take it to a suitable place to work on it. I needed to trim up my motor to get it off. Once removed, I then insterted the skeg in-between the planks on my deck and that seemed to keep it in place rather well as I worked. Make sure you've got some good marine grease as well to apply at the points as directed in the manual. The only other thing I can think of was that the control box was in neutral before removing the lower unit the splines on the shaft had to be rotated to the 'neutral' position - if it got turned during the repair.

 

[vikingham]

Re: BF130 Impeller and warning alarms

I don't know if the 130 is set up the same as the 90 - but if it is, one thing to be aware of is a plastic tube about three inches long that connects the water pump output to the tube that sticks down from the powerhead's cooling system. <br /><br />When I removed my lower unit last winter, I found that the tube was cracked, and so replaced it with a new one. After pulling the lower unit, you might want to take a look up inside the intermediate housing with a flashlight to see if you have one of these. It was actually kind of tricky to get the new one....the dealer had them in stock, but they had a hard time finding them in the computer.<br /><br />When you're reassmbling, a little grease on the alignment studs and bolts (and the little plastic tube) is a good idea....you can also put some grease on the SPLINES of the driveshaft but not the END. Grease on the end stops it from seating all the way into the crankshaft. <br /><br />Mine went back together pretty easily, although a second set of hands was very welcome because you have to get several pieces to mesh at the same time. You'll know when you've got it - the parts will slide together nicely. I've been told that in rare instances, if you just can't get the driveshaft seated and everything lined up, you may need to turn the drive shaft slightly ....but if you do, only turn it forwards - the dealership mechanic said that if you turn it opposite to its normal rotation, it can cause the impeller to flip back on itself and not work properly.<br /><br />Anyway, good luck!