Re: Best way to run wire for transducer?
I quit the external mount years ago. I mount them all internal. Some boats have had two, one in the normal position and one under the front seat....if the boat didn't have one on the trolling motor which is preferred.
Normal position for me is just off the keel and about 2" forward of the transom. Glass or alum hull doesn't matter as we are talking about sound waves and both substances transmit sound just fine for this. Only thing with glass is to ensure that you have a solid bottom between the transducer and the water. Most boats do back there, but some boats, years ago used a balsa filled floor to help satisfy the flotation requirement and that wouldn't work as sound doesn't go through balsa or foam to speak of.
Epoxy is the glue of choice because it sets up hard and the harder the glue the better the sound transmission. Glue needs to be between the transducer face and the boat and when you mix it, do it carefully to avoid bubbles as much as possible as bubbles don't transmit sound well either. Pour out an adequate amount on the hull and press the transducer into it and that's it. For most shallow water applications, say 100' or less, the beam width of the transducer will make up for boats with dead rise at the transom. If you are worried about it, build a solid epoxy level area where you want to mount it and after curing, mount it there. I mounted one in the bow of a bass boat once and did just that as there was a lot of v in the hull. Worked great.
On temp, I currently have one inboard and one on the trolling motor and they run within a couple of degrees of each other so you aren't going to introduce all that much error on your internal mounting and there are no holes to drill and it's not out there where a swimmer/water sports person or water debris/trailer can damage it. Routing the wiring is a walk in the park as the engine wiring is right there and you just run it along with that.
Mark