Best way to fix broken 7 pin connector?

OttawaPhil

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
85
Hello,
I have spent last month rebuilding my old Johnson 30hp model CJ30ELCED Took it all apart and cleaned and replaced anything that needed it.
Got it back on the boat and connected, except the 7 pin rubber connector,
One of the pins is broken.
I lookup the wiring harness and it says not available 8-(
What is the best way to fix this?

Thanks!
Phil
 

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fhhuber

Lieutenant
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Jun 19, 2014
Messages
1,365
Clip it out and go to individual bullet connectors with heat shrink tube. Don't cut the tube at the connection, shrink it so it locks the connection together.

Might have to extend the wires an inch or so due to the loss when cutting the OEM connectors off.

BE SURE YOU CONNECT THE WIRES CORRECTLY You can blow the electronics if you get it wrong.

You can just do the wire for the broken connector and leave the others using the OEM plug
 

OttawaPhil

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
85
Thanks a lot for the reply! Ok, not sure how to clip it out. Can I pull the wire out the back then crimp and heat shrink a new bullet connector then shove it in from the back? Not obvious to me.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Can buy the pins: http://www.iboats.com/PIN-10-44-100-...iew_id.1481322 . Just push them out or pull from the back.

[ed. touch of solder, then heat shrink is a good approach.]

Good post there oldboat1. I didn't know there were options for those plugs. I worked with cables and pins/sockets for a long time on Aircraft, but didn't know they had replacements for boat engine wiring harnesses. :thumb: :thumb:
 

interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
Might be tough to swap pins though - these are overmolded ends. The pins were originally held in a fixture and the parts put in a mold block. High pressure thermoplastic was injected around the wires and crimped ends.

If you can't poke the wire out, I'd cut the affected wire on both sides of the plug, and make a jumper lead with bullet M/F connections on one end, and a butt splice on the other. That way you'll have a connector you can separate without cutting for any future work.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Yeah, newer amphenol plugs definitely easier. Pin size can be an issue for restorations, but matching female connectors for the other plug end are also available.

One I never solved very well was a '57'58 harness plug at the pan. Built to last.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Might be tough to swap pins though - these are overmolded ends. The pins were originally held in a fixture and the parts put in a mold block. High pressure thermoplastic was injected around the wires and crimped ends.

If you can't poke the wire out, I'd cut the affected wire on both sides of the plug, and make a jumper lead with bullet M/F connections on one end, and a butt splice on the other. That way you'll have a connector you can separate without cutting for any future work.

I understand what you are telling him about using a bullet type connector(s) and going outside the original connector for a fix. But if he takes a proper sized wire or even a drill bit and uses it to push out the remaining broke pin part, he could remove it out the back. Then buy the new pin and crimp or solder it on and push it back in with some RTV and let it cure. That would make it work like original. JMHO!
 

interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
I understand what you are telling him about using a bullet type connector(s) and going outside the original connector for a fix. But if he takes a proper sized wire or even a drill bit and uses it to push out the remaining broke pin part, he could remove it out the back. Then buy the new pin and crimp or solder it on and push it back in with some RTV and let it cure. That would make it work like original. JMHO!

The OP can always try. Just saying that when they mold the ends, the wire will not be straight from the pin on the face of the connectors - it will zigzag toward the cable exit. Might be able to pull the wire out, might not. It's all about options.
 

OttawaPhil

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
85
I ended up solving this by btypassign the pin with a male and female bullet connector.
Engine ran great for several days, but now overheating at full throttle to figure out next.
 
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