Beefing up a splashwell?

g0nef1sshn

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Looking for ideas for strengthening where the the splashwell screws into the transom wood. And what screws were used to screw in the bottom.

My last attempt failed due to water getting in the holes. I may have used wrong screws. Any tips on how you did yours with or without reinforcing it?

I was thing maybe adding aluminum angle on the bottom with some through bolts every 5 or 6 holes?

What do you think?
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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I don't think adding more holes...esp through-holes below the waterline... is the answer.

if you want bombproof, consider Butyl sealing tape as Splashwell/transom seal.

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For hardware, just some size-8 or size-10 pan head SS screws (alot of them) sunk into epoxy plugs.

The transom wood gets sealed with epoxy/glass cloth; the PLY stays fully encapsulated even after fastening.

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MNhunter1

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Yep, the tape works great and seals things off nicely. I've also ran a bead of 3M 5200 along the seam before as well. You can also coat the screws with the 5200 before driving them home. Unless you do a lot of backtrolling, I'm curious how much water exposure those screws really get, but I guess if you don't have a good seal against the transom, you could get some water seeping through.
 

MNhunter1

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[No message]
 

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MNhunter1

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With the tape...
 

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g0nef1sshn

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Gas from carbs leaked in and ate the 3m seal i did on the first build. Will try the 3m and the tape on this redo.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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Gas from carbs leaked in and ate the 3m seal i did on the first build. Will try the 3m and the tape on this redo.

That makes sense considering that denatured alcohol cuts through 5200 like buttuh!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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sunlight cuts thru 5200 (because its not UV stable). i would use 4000 UV
 

MNhunter1

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Good point on the UV. I threw a coat of paint over mine, but who knows how it will end up in the long run. I do prefer the tape method after having done both. Can be a little more finicky with the fitment as it adds to the tolerances a bit, but clecos help to get all the rivet holes lined up.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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SC figured this stuff out later and made numerous changes. My V5 for instance has a SW that's a completely sealed tub that covers the transom wood completely with no way for water to get to the wood. The next upgrade was the SW is solid riveted to the tops of double knee braces and the SW perimeter is bolted through the transom with machine screws and nuts no screws to pull loose..

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