Bearing carrier stuck

[chilltech]

Hi guys,

Im sure I’m not the first to ask this and probably not the last. Got a alpha 1 gen 2, trying to get the bearing carrier out. Got the nut and locking ring out. Have been heating, and soaking with kroil in cycles. How much heat is too much? She’s stuck in there good, got a good puller on it and pulled up hard but don’t want to break anything. Any advice is appreciate, thanks.

Rich

 

[Scott06]

Hi guys,

Im sure I’m not the first to ask this and probably not the last. Got a alpha 1 gen 2, trying to get the bearing carrier out. Got the nut and locking ring out. Have been heating, and soaking with kroil in cycles. How much heat is too much? She’s stuck in there good, got a good puller on it and pulled up hard but don’t want to break anything. Any advice is appreciate, thanks.

Rich

I think @achris had a way to do this this should tag him

 

[Bt Doctur]

post a pic of the puller and where your applying heat

 

[chilltech]

post a pic of the puller and where your applying heat

Applying heat on both sides of where the blue tape is. Heating to about 250-275*f. Then while it’s cooling, I add some kroil inside at the contact areas and some medium love taps with plastic head hammer to the same taped areas to try and work the kroil into the contact areas. Time and patients I hope will pay off. Not sure what plan “B” is… any ideas are appreciated. Not sure how hot is too hot. In my line of work it’s generally around 250*f, so that’s where I’m at. Puller has a fine thread feed screw and threads are oiled. while pulling, im concerned about 2 things. Breaking the bearing carrier and damaging the (im assuming) forward gear bearing by putting flat spots in the rollers…?

thanks
Rich

 

[chilltech]

Applying heat on both sides of where the blue tape is. Heating to about 250-275*f. Then while it’s cooling, I add some kroil inside at the contact areas and some medium love taps with plastic head hammer to the same taped areas to try and work the kroil into the contact areas. Time and patients I hope will pay off. Not sure what plan “B” is… any ideas are appreciated. Not sure how hot is too hot. In my line of work it’s generally around 250*f, so that’s where I’m at. Puller has a fine thread feed screw and threads are oiled. while pulling, im concerned about 2 things. Breaking the bearing carrier and damaging the (im assuming) forward gear bearing by putting flat spots in the rollers…?

thanks
Rich

I should also mention it’s a 2000 year drive, was always fresh water to my knowledge ( I’m the third owner, had it since 13) until the last 2 seasons when I slipped it in sea water…I don’t believe the carrier has ever been out prior to my ownership.

 

[achris]

Applying heat on both sides of where the blue tape is. Heating to about 250-275*f. Then while it’s cooling, I add some kroil inside at the contact areas and some medium love taps with plastic head hammer to the same taped areas to try and work the kroil into the contact areas. Time and patients I hope will pay off. Not sure what plan “B” is… any ideas are appreciated. Not sure how hot is too hot. In my line of work it’s generally around 250*f, so that’s where I’m at. Puller has a fine thread feed screw and threads are oiled. while pulling, im concerned about 2 things. Breaking the bearing carrier and damaging the (im assuming) forward gear bearing by putting flat spots in the rollers…?

thanks
Rich

Looks like you're doing everything right. I've played this game a few times. The only thing I'd add is that you can easily take the temperature up to around 450°C. Aluminium melts at 660°C so you'd still be well inside a safety margin.

Go in fast, hit it hard... You need the casing to get hot and expand as quickly as possible so as little of that heat can conduct to the carrier. If that happens, all you're doing is expanding both parts at the same rate, and the net result of that is zero. Load up the puller and then start heating. Big flame concentrated. If you can cool the housing and carrier before hand, even better.

Good luck.

Chris.........

 

[chilltech]

Looks like you're doing everything right. I've played this game a few times. The only thing I'd add is that you can easily take the temperature up to around 450°C. Aluminium melts at 660°C so you'd still be well inside a safety margin.

Go in fast, hit it hard... You need the casing to get hot and expand as quickly as possible so as little of that heat can conduct to the carrier. If that happens, all you're doing is expanding both parts at the same rate, and the net result of that is zero. Load up the puller and then start heating. Big flame concentrated. If you can cool the housing and carrier before hand, even better.

Good luck.

Chris.........

Thanks Chris, sounds like I can put a lot more heat to it. Another question, is the carrier gonna drag all the way out, or is the housing “relieved” beyond the “machined fit” area? Can’t really get much in the bore to clean up the little bit of gunk that’s in there. Do I need to make a significant effort to really clean that prior to pulling, or will there be some clearance once it comes out of home base?
Thanks
Rich.

 

[achris]

Normally once it starts moving it will keep moving without much effort. It's that first breakaway that causes problems. I've never had to keep up the area before removing the carrier. Once it's out, yes, clean it up. I use a 'green scratchy pad'.



Chris.....

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Chill tech, A Chris is spot on(as usual). I pulled mine last year. You gotta hit it hard with the heat. It took me 2 weeks. Heat, penetrating oil, and hard on the puller. Repeat and repeat. A good tapping with a plastic hammer.
I was replacing the carrier so I wasn’t concerned about damaging it. Patients is key.

 

[nola mike]

Just curious as to what you guys use to heat. I've never had a ton of luck using regular propane/mapp torches

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Just curious as to what you guys use to heat. I've never had a ton of luck using regular propane/mapp torches

Just curious as to what you guys use to heat. I've never had a ton of luck using regular propane/mapp torches

I went to an Acetylene torch… very sparingly tho. Propane didn’t cut it

 

[kenny nunez]

Sierra # 18-79813 puller. $205.00 from Summit Racing free shipping is the best price posted.
I have had one of these for 35 years. Never failed. I realize not everyone on this site will want one. Still should be used with some heat if the carrier is really stuck or you will destroy the carrier.
Also works on OMC, Volvo & Yamaha drives and outboards.

 

[chilltech]

I went to an Acetylene torch… very sparingly tho. Propane didn’t cut it

Thanks everyone, got er out….that was fun…

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Excellent news…. What made it happen. Curious

 

[chilltech]

Excellent news…. What made it happen. Curious

Heat with the puller loaded up did the trick. Had previously been heating and treating with penetrating oil for a couple days to give the oil time to loosen things a bit (Not convinced it did much but maybe ). Loaded the puller pretty darn tight, put the heat to the forward contact area as I was pretty sure this is where it was stuck and it popped once. Loaded puller again and it still wasnt free. More heat and she pulled out with moderate force. I didn’t need to heat much, 300*f seemed to do it and I didn’t have a large torch to hit it as hard and fast as I wanted to but it worked anyhow.