Baystar steering with TLDI 50?

[whosmatt]

I need to replace my mechanical steering cable, which will require pulling the motor due to cable clearance in the splashwell. I'm thinking of installing a Baystar system instead, partly so I'll be able to service the steering ram without having to pull the motor. Will the Baystar system work for me? I see that they only specify the 140HP model in the compatibility charts. I definitely have the splashwell dimensions to support it.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[GA_Boater]

How long since the cable was replaced?

Going to hydraulic steering seems like an awful lot of expense to save a some time if the steering needs service way down the road.

 

[whosmatt]

How long since the cable was replaced?

Going to hydraulic steering seems like an awful lot of expense to save a some time if the steering needs service way down the road.

It's been about four years. I think the problem is corrosion in the tube on the motor, not the cable itself. But I can't check without pulling the motor.

 

[tommarvin]

Back your motor under something thats higher, take the cover off, block and tackle, some kind of hoist, how about a come along that stretches chain link,winch, HF will have something cheap, use your imagination, hoist your motor up and fix it,

 

[GA_Boater]

I lifted my motor using the tongue jack. Made an A frame with some straps to the motor, lowered the jack, tightened the straps, removed the mounting bolts and jacked up the tongue. The motor stayed in place as the transom lowered. I think I had to put something between the jack and floor to lower the transom enough to clear the motor off the transom when it was jacked up.

My motor is too heavy to lift by myself and this way was a snap.

 

[tommarvin]

That was very clever GA_BOATER I'm going to remember that.

 

[whosmatt]

Yep. I'm about to go pick up a shop crane I found on craigslist. And incidentally, it *is* the cable, though the inside of the tube is pretty filthy as well. Next step... how to get the bolts out of the transom; I think the installer used 5200. I half expect the boat to lift off the trailer along with the motor, haha.

Matt

 

[GA_Boater]

5200 is permanent, but not that permanent. The worst that can happen is the bolts snap, but they are pretty sturdy..

 

[GA_Boater]

A shotgun cleaning brush works well to clean inside the tilt tube.

 

[whosmatt]

5200 is permanent, but not that permanent. The worst that can happen is the bolts snap, but they are pretty sturdy..

Well, I tried to hammer one out with a 4lb hammer and it didn't budge. I guess I can get out the impact wrench and just try to shred the stuff.

 

[whosmatt]

A shotgun cleaning brush works well to clean inside the tilt tube.

Yep. That's the idea I had too. Should I use a solvent?

 

[GA_Boater]

If I remember, on the two under the splashwell, I backed the nuts off so there was a gap and used a short socket with extension so I could get a good whack on it.

 

[whosmatt]

I think the installer used 5200. I half expect the boat to lift off the trailer along with the motor, haha.

Matt

Well, I did it, and the above literally happened. Except that it lifted the boat AND the trailer. I had to break the motor free from the transom, all bolts removed, with a 5-in-1 painters tool and a 4LB hammer. When it did break free, the motor instantly was about 4" off the transom, and the trailer dropped hard onto the jack stands I had bracing the back so it wouldn't tip back when I got in the boat. Cleaned the tube with a shotgun brush, and might get a couple more since I wore out the first one (had it on a drill). I ordered the wrong cable, a 13' instead of a 14' so I have some time to keep cleaning.

Matt

 

[GA_Boater]

Well, you it off.

The 5200 must have been really slathered on if it glued the motor to the transom.

Get some 4200 to seal the bolts when you put the motor back on.. It works just a good as the 5200, but it's not a permanent adhesive/sealant. And you don't need as much as the first installer used. Just the holes need to be sealed.

 

[whosmatt]

Well, you it off.

The 5200 must have been really slathered on if it glued the motor to the transom.

Get some 4200 to seal the bolts when you put the motor back on.. It works just a good as the 5200, but it's not a permanent adhesive/sealant. And you don't need as much as the first installer used. Just the holes need to be sealed.

It wasn't really slathered IMO. I built this boat myself, a stitch-and-glue design, and would NEVER have used 5200 as an adhesive, only as a sealant. But damn if it isn't tenacious. I did get some 4200 to re-seal the bolts. It's a testament to the Interlux Perfection paint I used that the paint didn't come off too.

-M