Ballpark Costs - Renovating an 18-20 StarCraft Aluminum Hull

[timbobber]

I bought and restored an Old Town canoe this past spring and the entire family just loves being on the water. I look with envy at the boats cruising around on the larger lakes we have gone on (with 20hp limits) and am thinking I'd love to tackle an aluminum boat project over fall/winter/spring so we're ready to go next Memorial Day on our own boat.

I'd like to get something we can take on local rivers as well as lakes and tube/ski behind but that can be pulled by my minivan (3,500 lb limit). The long term plan is to buy the dreamboat, an open bow Nautique/Mastercraft style ski/wakeboard boat but I need a few years to save up and I'd like to learn about boats by renovating my own so we have something to enjoy in the meantime.

Facebook MP and CL are filled with decent StarCraft candidates in the 16-20' range for around $1000-1500 (see pic below of a good candidate). I'm hoping to do a full gut job but would choose a boat with a 85+ hp OB that just needs a little tune-up to keep costs low.

My question is what kind of ballpark figure or range would I be looking at for a full restoration that includes a new floor, foam, paint, seats (economy grade), upholstery, and cost to upgrade the electrical (new batteries, a few new parts here and there)? I'm hoping I can get in and done for $4,000 that includes the boat and restoration but not registrarion/title - does that seem reasonable?

While I lack the experience doing most of this type of work, I'm never afraid to tackle a new project or domain. In fact, I go crazy without a project like this to keep me busy.

 

[jbcurt00]

$3-5K to redo it yourself, if the boats motor can be made to run reasonably, but not including any tools ya need to buy, to skys the limit of you go high end w all the bells and whistles, including fishing electrics.

But you can shop for deals on stuff you want/need and buy them when you find a good deal and hang on to it until your ready for it. And you'll spend it a bit at a time, instead of all at once.

Some have stockpiled stuff for over a year before starting a redo, and jumped around doing different odds and ends when they needed to wait for another round of supply purchases to be paid for.

Dont forget, trailers often need work too, $1K+/-

 

[ahicks]

I'm finishing up a '93 19' Grumman deck boat (aluminum). These are like hen's teeth to find, and I had my heart set on one, so I bit the bullet and paid 2500 for it. Boat, motor, and trailer (a nice galvanized trailer)

All of the plywood was shot, so I pretty much used just the aluminum over again, along with some hardware like the bimini top frame (fabric now replaced) and railings for instance. I even had to put all new instruments in it as the needles had sun rotted the point they were laying on the bottom of the instrument bezels. That was a surprise. Have never seen that happen!

Had new graphics to match the originals made for the sides at a local shop. 300 well spent as they turned out perfect.

'93 Johnson 120 hp was an easy restore. I don't think it's got much time on it at all. I just refreshed that with a new pump, t-stats and a thorough carb cleaning. Purring like a kitten.

All new upholstery of course.

I really haven't been paying too much attention to what it's costing, but I'll bet the restoration is likely pushing 3000, maybe a bit more.

Countless hours messing with it though. I would not have even considered it had I not been retired.

A very unique boat though. 8 feet wide with a shallow V. Pops up on plane easily for skiing, runs dry pretty much, holds on plane down into the teens, and very shallow draft. Easy to climb out the front or back, with a permanent ladder on the back.

Picture is of a similar boat, exactly what I started with.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Man that's a tough question. It all depends on how deep into a restoration you want to get as in like new as well as what is needed to make the boat dependable but more importantly safe. If the engine is totally shot as in it's a anchor you can sink 3 grand in a rebuilt engine as fast as it takes to write the cheque. A pal bought the shell of a similar era StarCraft and with the crate engine he paid 4 grand for and materials to create basically a new boat he spent 8 grand Canadian which is about $6000.00 USD. The boat turned out magnificently.

 

[roscoe]

Wow, that 20 starcraft SS looks like a great project, but, you'll need to drop $3000 into a motor, which completely blows your budget.



I rebuilt my 18' Starcraft Mariner. $600
$1500 for a trailer.
$1500 for a 25 year old motor, controls, cables.
$800 floor
$1100 for seats, bases, pedestals
$3500 for helm, steering cable, gauges, lights, wiring, batteries, switches, sonars, foam, console, props, a retractable boarding ladder and a kicker motor, fuel tank and filler and vent. Trailer brakes and brake controller.

So $9000

Might get $3500 for it. But I plan on keeping her till I can't boat anymore.


But, for $3000, you could buy a boat thats solid and may only need freshening up.
Stick a grand into the motor and trailer, and maybe a few little things in the boat.

Done, use it, and avoid the total rebuild. I know you want a project, but there is always something to do on a boat that is more than 2 weeks old.

 

[Texasmark]

Years ago I redid an 18' Starcraft I/O which included moderate engine and outdrive work and some new parts, repainting the hull, new floor (deck), foam was ok, white (coffee cup) closed cell sheets and dry, transom replacement, galvanizing of the trailer by a professional facility...I disassembled it, they dunked it, I reassembled it and drove it home, new bearings and rubber. I paid $1600 which was way too much for what I got but I wound up with a really nice (functional, not a showroom special, but nice), boat.

Thinking about today's prices, I'd say you can do it if you are smart about it. Consider the age of the boat, how long the OEM equipment lasted, what may have happened to the boat over the years that led to it's current condition, your aspirations as to length of ownership, and usage/storage method.....in short, does it have to be aesthetically perfect? Are you restoring a Cadillac, or a Ford!

I boat in fresh water only so salt water protection wasn't necessary. Transom was made up of layers of regular CD ¾" plywood with marine glue and sealed (1 ½" total thickness as I recall), floor (deck) was ⅜ Marine Plywood which was available locally....used marine because of marine glue and more plies per unit thickness giving more strength in a thinner package keeping weight down, sealed (no fiberglass or resin) before and after attachment hull. I think I used pop-rivets on the floor to hull bracing attachment, being careful on the outer holes due to the proximity of the hull and not wanting to accidentally drill through that. Covering was regular indoor-outdoor carpet with appropriate glue.

Well worth the time and effort. Great open water boat with lots of room.

Edit: I was living in the city at the time and had limited tools. Boat wouldn't fit in the garage so I worked on the driveway. Did have electro/mechanical/carpenter aptitudes however, but never had done anything like this before.

 

[Scott Danforth]

every restoration will take 2-3x your estimated budget and 4-5x the estimated time line.

so shop wise, spend frugally, fix and repair what you can...

luckily on an aluminum hull, other than the transom, nothing else is structural.

 

[Texasmark]

every restoration will take 2-3x your estimated budget and 4-5x the estimated time line.

so shop wise, spend frugally, fix and repair what you can...

luckily on an aluminum hull, other than the transom, nothing else is structural.

"luckily on an aluminum hull, other than the transom, nothing else is structural." The exact reason I went with an aluminum hull for the project.

 

[jebby]

I'm finishing up a '93 19' Grumman deck boat (aluminum). These are like hen's teeth to find, and I had my heart set on one, so I bit the bullet and paid 2500 for it. Boat, motor, and trailer (a nice galvanized trailer)

All of the plywood was shot, so I pretty much used just the aluminum over again, along with some hardware like the bimini top frame (fabric now replaced) and railings for instance. I even had to put all new instruments in it as the needles had sun rotted the point they were laying on the bottom of the instrument bezels. That was a surprise. Have never seen that happen!

Had new graphics to match the originals made for the sides at a local shop. 300 well spent as they turned out perfect.

'93 Johnson 120 hp was an easy restore. I don't think it's got much time on it at all. I just refreshed that with a new pump, t-stats and a thorough carb cleaning. Purring like a kitten.

All new upholstery of course.

I really haven't been paying too much attention to what it's costing, but I'll bet the restoration is likely pushing 3000, maybe a bit more.

Countless hours messing with it though. I would not have even considered it had I not been retired.

A very unique boat though. 8 feet wide with a shallow V. Pops up on plane easily for skiing, runs dry pretty much, holds on plane down into the teens, and very shallow draft. Easy to climb out the front or back, with a permanent ladder on the back.

Picture is of a similar boat, exactly what I started with.

not to hijack, but that thing is awesome. would love something like that all fresh.

 

[ahicks]

Different isn't it!
OMC built them in the 90's. Several identical boat brands (another is Lowe, same boat with an alum. floor), 19' and 22' lengths, all run down the same line and mostly all powered with bigger Johnsons with trim and tilt. Live well and ski lockers pretty much standard too.

 

[timbobber]

$3-5K to redo it yourself, if the boats motor can be made to run reasonably, but not including any tools ya need to buy, to skys the limit of you go high end w all the bells and whistles, including fishing electrics.

But you can shop for deals on stuff you want/need and buy them when you find a good deal and hang on to it until your ready for it. And you'll spend it a bit at a time, instead of all at once.

Some have stockpiled stuff for over a year before starting a redo, and jumped around doing different odds and ends when they needed to wait for another round of supply purchases to be paid for.

Dont forget, trailers often need work too, $1K+/-

Wow, you really learned me on costs. This and the other responses have made me rethink my idea of restoring a smaller boat as a holding strategy while waiting to save up the funds for the bigger dream ski boat. It sounds like it could go up to $6-7K to get it right, and that doesn't even get me to showroom condition, which I'm not interested in. Thanks for sharing!

 

[timbobber]

I'm finishing up a '93 19' Grumman deck boat (aluminum). These are like hen's teeth to find, and I had my heart set on one, so I bit the bullet and paid 2500 for it. Boat, motor, and trailer (a nice galvanized trailer)

All of the plywood was shot, so I pretty much used just the aluminum over again, along with some hardware like the bimini top frame (fabric now replaced) and railings for instance. I even had to put all new instruments in it as the needles had sun rotted the point they were laying on the bottom of the instrument bezels. That was a surprise. Have never seen that happen!

Had new graphics to match the originals made for the sides at a local shop. 300 well spent as they turned out perfect.

'93 Johnson 120 hp was an easy restore. I don't think it's got much time on it at all. I just refreshed that with a new pump, t-stats and a thorough carb cleaning. Purring like a kitten.

All new upholstery of course.

I really haven't been paying too much attention to what it's costing, but I'll bet the restoration is likely pushing 3000, maybe a bit more.

Countless hours messing with it though. I would not have even considered it had I not been retired.

A very unique boat though. 8 feet wide with a shallow V. Pops up on plane easily for skiing, runs dry pretty much, holds on plane down into the teens, and very shallow draft. Easy to climb out the front or back, with a permanent ladder on the back.

Picture is of a similar boat, exactly what I started with.

Wow, that's it! That's the solution I'm actually looking for but I didn't know it even exists. I want a larger ski boat so we have the room but without the tradeoffs of a pontoon. You've really turned my head around on the whole thing. And it sounds like you've got it in and done for under $7-8K. Unbelievable! It's a real head turner, you did a great job!

A few questions:

-Does it tow behind your vehicle like an aluminum boat or like a pontoon? I'm hoping not to buy another vehicle just for towing and I have a minivan, which could handle a 19' alum Starcraft but not a 19' pontoon, by any stretch of the imagination.

-Would it be possible to put a 9.9 or 20hp kicker next to the 120hp Johnson for smaller lakes?

 

[timbobber]

Different isn't it!
OMC built them in the 90's. Several identical boat brands (another is Lowe, same boat with an alum. floor), 19' and 22' lengths, all run down the same line and mostly all powered with bigger Johnsons with trim and tilt. Live well and ski lockers pretty much standard too.

Do these boats have a standard name or definition? Like a runabout or skiff do? You call it a deck boat but deck boats are usually fiberglass. Knowing such a term, if it exists, would help me track on down.

 

[timbobber]

"luckily on an aluminum hull, other than the transom, nothing else is structural." The exact reason I went with an aluminum hull for the project.

I can't seem to find any of these for sale very easily. What does one in good shape go for with a 120hp behind it?

 

[timbobber]

every restoration will take 2-3x your estimated budget and 4-5x the estimated time line.

so shop wise, spend frugally, fix and repair what you can...

luckily on an aluminum hull, other than the transom, nothing else is structural.

Wow! Sounds like my intermediary strategy until we buy the big boat would itself be a long term ownership. Not sure it's worth it, maybe I go for the boat I really want, even if it means waiting to get the right thing that won't be the multiplier of headaches you are talking about.

 

[timbobber]

Wow, that 20 starcraft SS looks like a great project, but, you'll need to drop $3000 into a motor, which completely blows your budget.



I rebuilt my 18' Starcraft Mariner. $600
$1500 for a trailer.
$1500 for a 25 year old motor, controls, cables.
$800 floor
$1100 for seats, bases, pedestals
$3500 for helm, steering cable, gauges, lights, wiring, batteries, switches, sonars, foam, console, props, a retractable boarding ladder and a kicker motor, fuel tank and filler and vent. Trailer brakes and brake controller.

So $9000

Might get $3500 for it. But I plan on keeping her till I can't boat anymore.


But, for $3000, you could buy a boat thats solid and may only need freshening up.
Stick a grand into the motor and trailer, and maybe a few little things in the boat.

Done, use it, and avoid the total rebuild. I know you want a project, but there is always something to do on a boat that is more than 2 weeks old.

AWESOME!!! Some actual costs. I'll be honest, I was thinking that the helm and electrical stuff you mention for $3,500 is 7x higher than I thought it would be. And it's your absolute largest cost, too. It makes a $975 boat seem trivial, frankly. I bet the boat looks great, however. I'll scope out whether you've got pics on here.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Wow! Sounds like my intermediary strategy until we buy the big boat would itself be a long term ownership. Not sure it's worth it, maybe I go for the boat I really want, even if it means waiting to get the right thing that won't be the multiplier of headaches you are talking about.

you are buying a BOAT. that is an acronym for Bust Out Another Thousand.

there is no such thing as a boat that wont be a multiplier of headaches.

boating is one of the worlds most expensive hobbies. it is more expensive than racing a late model every weekend.

it is only slightly less than owning an airplane

once you accept the fact that owning a BOAT is owning a hole in the water you pour money and time into, you can enjoy it.

back to your other questions.

you have a twin-console run-about

generally any boat under $10k in fiberglass or $5k in aluminum should be considered a project boat

 

[ahicks]

Wow, that's it! That's the solution I'm actually looking for but I didn't know it even exists. I want a larger ski boat so we have the room but without the tradeoffs of a pontoon. You've really turned my head around on the whole thing. And it sounds like you've got it in and done for under $7-8K. Unbelievable! It's a real head turner, you did a great job!

A few questions:

-Does it tow behind your vehicle like an aluminum boat or like a pontoon? I'm hoping not to buy another vehicle just for towing and I have a minivan, which could handle a 19' alum Starcraft but not a 19' pontoon, by any stretch of the imagination.

-Would it be possible to put a 9.9 or 20hp kicker next to the 120hp Johnson for smaller lakes?

Last question first. No room for a kicker next to the 120. You'd have to install a bracket. The ones I've seen are pre-wired for a 12/24v trolling motor up front if that might help. They even mount a jack with a trim/tilt switch for your outboard up there.

You were talking about pulling it with a vehicle rated at 3500lbs. That's why I thought it might interest you. We use a 2017 2wd Honda Pilot (mid size SUV) to pull ours - which is rated for pulling 3500. This thing should be well under that all loaded on the trailer.

I've pulled about everything under the sun there is to pull, and I'd rate it as "not easy", but WAY easier than a 'toon. Probably not something you'd want to pull for longer distances frequently (with a vehicle rated for 3500lbs), but no problem around town, say within an hour of home.

Even though most deck boats are 'glass, aluminum was used occasionally in the 90's. I don't think any are built now.

If you're interested in seeing more, Google "Lowe deck boats" or "Grumman Sport Deck" for some more pics. Note that some of these are VERY nice. Seeing what can be done with them hooked me.....

There's first generation hull (like mine), and a second generation that offers similar top sides, but a little more modern hull design. Second gen. is built from a little thicker alum. as well. These are very solid boats, with all welded seams

Sea Ark deck boats, if you can ever find one for sale, would likely be considered a top shelf boat in this class.

Tracker even made them (Suntracker Party deck), but that's almost going to be a guaranteed project boat. The ply they used was a little lacking. I don't care for the way they mount their outboards either, on an extension rather than directly on the transom.

Many of these are going to be I/O, but those start getting heavy - much like the glass deck boats.

 

[timbobber]

you are buying a BOAT. that is an acronym for Bust Out Another Thousand.

there is no such thing as a boat that wont be a multiplier of headaches.

boating is one of the worlds most expensive hobbies. it is more expensive than racing a late model every weekend.

it is only slightly less than owning an airplane

once you accept the fact that owning a BOAT is owning a hole in the water you pour money and time into, you can enjoy it.

back to your other questions.

you have a twin-console run-about

generally any boat under $10k in fiberglass or $5k in aluminum should be considered a project boat

Thanks, I think I needed the straight talk. My operative model for this proposed project is the canoe project I finished this past spring. I dropped $150 into the canoe, refinished all the wood and fashioned a seat, and I was in business and it's needed nothing since and there's really been nothing to give us trouble.

The model you're talking about has a real budgetary impact beyond just refinishing some seats every ten years like I will do with the canoe. From the rubber of the trailer tires to the bimini top, it's all replaceable stuff that can't just be refinished and recoated and call it seaworthy for another five years. It's sinking in that there's going to constantly be projects to keep it ready to go and some of those are going to cost some real bucks.

A workable model in the interim to get out on a powered boat, might be to drop $2000-3000K into a 14-16' v-hull with trailer, and OB tiller setup, improve it as I go, but just keep it simple for two or three years while I save up the funds (I just hate debt!) for something bigger. Then sell the little boat off and put it towards the big boy when the time comes.

 

[timbobber]

Last question first. No room for a kicker next to the 120. You'd have to install a bracket. The ones I've seen are pre-wired for a 12/24v trolling motor up front if that might help. They even mount a jack with a trim/tilt switch for your outboard up there.

You were talking about pulling it with a vehicle rated at 3500lbs. That's why I thought it might interest you. We use a 2017 2wd Honda Pilot (mid size SUV) to pull ours - which is rated for pulling 3500. This thing should be well under that all loaded on the trailer.

I've pulled about everything under the sun there is to pull, and I'd rate it as "not easy", but WAY easier than a 'toon. Probably not something you'd want to pull for longer distances frequently (with a vehicle rated for 3500lbs), but no problem around town, say within an hour of home.

The more I look into these things, the more I like them. And based off of what you actually ended up getting, $2,500 seems like a reasonable price. I'd be interested in keeping a boat like this in a slip but yearly towing and occasional towing to other bodies of water would be nice and it's awesome that they can be hauled with what I already have.

Did you put airbags or a weight distributing hitch on? Does the trailer have brakes?

And how would this handle bigger water like a good sized river?