Axle/Spring removal question

[ezmobee]

As I put in an earlier post, I just bought a trailer off of CL for $75. It's in similar condition as my existing trailer but has the distinct advantage of not having my boat sitting on it making it much easier to rehab. I'm currently dismantling everything down to the frame so I can clean it up and paint it. I have just about everything off of it except the axle and leaf springs. The springs and mounts are really rusty. I shot everything with PB Blaster and was able to get the nuts off the bolts that hold the springs on. I was feeling pretty happy with myself until I tried to bang out the bolts and NONE of them budged. Thinking they may possibly be double threaded or something I tried to turn them out. Well they are seriously frozen. I can maybe get a small bit of turn on them. Anyone have any suggestions? If I end up having to cut them out that's going to be a major job I think.

Tashasdaddy if you happen to respond, once I get the axle/spring assembly off I'm going to be hitting you up to figure out what to measure so I can order a replacement from the same place you did.

 

[The_Kid]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

The bolts may be stuck to the rubber bushings. Heat both ends of the bolt with a propane torch then give it them another shot of PB Blaster. The heat will help to draw the PB Blaster in. Put a wrench on them and turn them back an forth to see if they will break loose.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Chances are if their that stuck and that rusty, your most likely going to have to cut the bolts, either with a hack saw, sawsall, or air grinder or exhaust cutter.

I gave up years ago wasting time on rusty parts, I usually go right for the torch or exhaust cutter.

The important measurements will be spring length, spring center, and overall axle width. You will also need to know spring weight, approximate arch or drop, and width of the spring leaves. usually 1.5, 1.75, or 2".
Your not too far from a guy I deal with, he's in Long Pond, PA, Great Wolf Trailers. He's been great in getting parts for me here.
Although lately I've been just building my own axles. I can buy the spindles and get the raw steel local pretty cheap. I then send the finished axles out to be galvanized locally if I feel it's really needed.

Chances are that trailer still has rubber bushings, and the steel insert in those bushings is rusted to the bolt, it's by far not worth all the effort and damage to try to remove the hard way.

If normal methods don't work, cut the bolts and move on.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

i usually use a sawzall and cut the bolts, get the axle out of the way. use mapp gas torch, propane takes to long to heat up. heat it up and beat it out. as said the usually have a rubber bushing, when the bolt rusts it expands, making the fit almost impossible to drive out with out heat.

 

[mthieme]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

If the springs are as rusty as you say - to the point where if you hit them with a hammer chunks fly - be extremely careful when you have them removed. The rust tightens the springs up. If the bolt through the center that holds them together fails, or if you take it apart to clean them up, the springs will become very dangerous projectiles. Just a word of caution. I've seen these puppies jump 10' in the air before.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Thanks guys. I have a friend coming over with a torch this eveing. Surprising the bolts on one side of the trailer have losened up a good bit and will probably come right out. I guess the PB worked it's way in there. The other side is still locked up solid though. I'm anxious to get this thing stripped down so I can get to cleaning it up and painting it.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

did you flip the trailer upside down. makes it a lot easier.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Well the torch worked! I especially enjoyed the rubber fire we started when the bushings caught. We were working with the trailer on the ground so we caught the fumes full in the face. We're morons. But the bolts are out now so I can get it up on saw horses now and start grinding and sanding. Thanks guys.

TD I didn't want to try to flip it with the extra weight of the running gear on there. I'm going to flip it now that that stuff is off.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

they are so much easier to work on, when they are on their back.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Well everything is dismantled now. The axle/spring assembly is completely off and the frame is flipped and up on some sawhorses and I spent an hour tonight with a wire wheel cleaning it up with many hours left to go. Ugh.

So what all do I need to measure here to order a new axle/spring assembly? From hub face to hub face it's 65 1/2" and from spring center to spring center it's 53 1/2". What else do I need?

Is it possible to order the axle,springs, and hubs as one complete assembly?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

I thinking this will get the job done http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200330531_200330531

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

If it matches your specs, it will work fine, but it would most likely be cheaper to go with an axle and order the springs and hardware separate.
I've been making my own axles lately, it saves a lot of shipping.
On most new axles, the spring perch locations will have to be welded, most come as universal kits which can be made to fit various frame widths.

You will need spring width, frame width, overall hub to hub length, and lug count.

Does your old axle mount spring over axle or axle over spring? was it a straight or drop axle?

Often you can replace an under slung drop axle with an over the spring mounted straight axle but you will lose some suspension travel.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Thanks rf. What I have looks exactly the same. It's an inch off of my specs but it looks like the springs are U-bolted on so I should be able to adjust them side to side to fit perfectly. I don't have the ability to weld or know anyone else who does so being able to order it assmebled is key. The shipping on this was only $38 which I thought reasonable. I had budgeted $200 and it should come in right around there.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Axle/Spring removal question

Thanks rf. What I have looks exactly the same. It's an inch off of my specs but it looks like the springs are U-bolted on so I should be able to adjust them side to side to fit perfectly. I don't have the ability to weld or know anyone else who does so being able to order it assmebled is key. The shipping on this was only $38 which I thought reasonable. I had budgeted $200 and it should come in right around there.

The axle should have a drilled hole to accept the spring center bolt, this keeps the axle from sliding up or back on the spring. Often a new axle will come without this hole drilled, but those from Northern may not if they come pre-assembled. Its usually a matter of just drilling two holes the distance of the spring center in the axle where it meets the springs.
Many round axles come without the spring perches welded on as well. What I do with this style is just assemble the axle, get it where I want it and then tack weld the spring perches in place, then remove the axle again and properly weld the perches in place.
Lately, since shipping an axle can be pretty expensive, especially when you need a few of them, I usually just order the spindles and make the axles here. That way I can make them to my specs, exactly as needed.