Attn: EEBoater (or any other handy-man)

JamesCoste

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Messages
595
I'm in a bind with my laminate floor installation and could use your help. We've done 2/3rd of the living room with no problems, but now approach a door that goes into a room that will still keep it's carpet.<br /><br />Picture this:<br /><br />We used to have carpet that went from our bedroom to the living room. We cut the carpet (and padding) under the door. We bought some T-molding to hide the seam from the laminate to the carpet.<br /><br />In my ignorance, I thought the part of the "T" facing the carpet would somehow "grab" the carpet. I have a proper and accurate understanding knowledge of how the other half of the "T" moulding goes facing the laminate.<br /><br />Finally, my question:<br /><br />How do I "tack down" the carpet edge so that it doesn't get tripped on and get pulled up?<br /><br />Can I cut 1" of the carpet padding and use liquid nails to press down the edge right behind the moulding?
 

deputydawg

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
1,607
Re: Attn: EEBoater (or any other handy-man)

I would simply use carpet tacks under the T molding. <br />Liquid nails may soak through. If you glue it, use carpet or tile glue. Problem is in a doorway itr is concentrated trafic and may pull loose leaving part of the pad. <br />Stretch the carpet and tack it about every 1/2 inch or so.
 

gspig

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
409
Re: Attn: EEBoater (or any other handy-man)

I think most installers just use a tack strip. Nail the tack strip 1/4 inch away from the last strip of laminate, cut a straight line along the carpet and tuck in down between the tack strip and laminate. I would glue the T moulding to the laminate strip to cover the transition.
 

eeboater

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
2,644
Re: Attn: EEBoater (or any other handy-man)

James!<br /><br />Its good to see you're making progress! Here is a link to a picture of what I did:<br /><br /> Laminate - Carpet Transition Piece<br /><br />Now, keep in mind I am by no means an expert here! But here's what I did. And if I did it wrong, to each his own, right? :D <br /><br />Anyway, the piece I bought was called a "Carpet reducer" and it looks like this:<br /><br />
Carpet%20Reducer.jpg
<br /><br />I know that other brands make the same thing, in fact I don't even think I bought the one made by Pergo because the HD that I went to didn't have any in stock. Anyway, what I did was cut the padding about 1.5"-2" back underneath the carpet. Then, using the carpet reducer, I pinned the edge (I'd say about a 1/2") of the carpet beneath the carpet reducer. If you look at the reducer, you will see that it has the skinny flat edge that goes over the laminate while the other side is fat and has a 90 degree block shaped end on it. The block shaped end pressed down and compressed the carpet. The whole piece locked into the black plastic track that the reducer is designed to work with. Basically, you screw the black plastic track down to the subfloor, then the reducer snaps into the track. I will tell you one thing... it was a MAJOR PITA!!!! But when it was in, man did it ever look good. As far as being afraid of the carpet pulling out from under the transition piece... its pinned down pretty good in that I think it will be very tough for it to pull out.<br /><br />I think this situation is one that it pays to spend the 17 bucks for the transition piece as well as the additional 7 bucks for the track that the transition snaps into. <br /><br />Good luck!!!! And let me know if you have any questions.<br /><br />Sean
 

JamesCoste

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Messages
595
Re: Attn: EEBoater (or any other handy-man)

Thanks for all your tips. I think I can use your tips to solve the problem.<br /><br />I've purchased the transition pieces, just couldn't quite figure out if the carpet was held down under it.<br /><br />I'm glad that it does! I've already trimmed the padding 2" or so. I think I'm set.
 
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