Re: Are 32 volt 20 amp fuses OK for v-4 johnnyrudes 70's?
Beins this is moving right along, I bought a new farm tractor a couple of years ago. It had a 30A modern day fuse (plastic top, parallel blades, fast blow....whatever the AGA or whatever number it is) to run the AC, blower, cig lighter (I don't use), and an aftermarket, but factory installed, air seat....like 18 wheelers use. The EE on the job must have been on coffee break when this wiring drawing went through for review. The seat had it's own air pump so it needed 12v to run that.
The wiring to the seat came from the side of the cab where the cig lighter was (as mentioned, 30 A fused) and the wiring (all of 16 AWG) went across the floor and up and under the seat. The seat shock absorbing mechanism was the air bladder and also a scissor system. In short, the scissor system (moving up and down with me) caused the 12v terminal to pull off the pressurization switch so it was just lying on the metal floor of the seat and started shorting out. It took quite awhile to find the problem because it was lying loose and any time the tractor moved, it caused it to bounce around and gave you very unreliable troubleshooting symptoms.
So I got the birdbrain idea to go to the auto parts store and buy a time delay circuit breaker of 30 amp that fit the socket for the fuse. I don't know what the time delay curve was, but it didn't take long for me to smell smoke and I burned up a wiring harness using that time delay device.
Obviously I finally located the smoking gun....easy when all the wiring to the short had melted insulation, and solved the problem. In doing so, I separated all the loads that had no business being on a 30 amp circuit and put them on fuses rated for their wire gauge and have had no problems since.
So be careful defeating, or changing fuses.
My 2c,
Mark