). Arm yourself with a magic marker and a piece of cardboard. Go boat shopping and make a trace of a lower unit (in-tact) from the cavitation plate to the bottom of the skeg. Now take the tracing and fold up the cardboard and hold it up to your lower unit.<br /><br />Is it the same or close? Make sure the lower half extends below the lowest poit of the prop by at least a 1/2" (1" is okay too). Now modify the original tracing and cut it out with a siccors. Does it look like it will work? Great.<br /><br />Now take that cardboard template to a sheet metal shop and ask them to cut it out of 8 guage stainless steel. [Here is where you decide weather or not to be creative.] Your options are to make a second template and ask to cut it out and bend it in half. That will cover both sides of the broken skeg (use 14 guage if you want 2 sides) OR use a single piece of 8 guage and mount it on one side of the broken skeg.<br /><br />I have done this many times and used both methods. I did both sides of my outboard and only one side of my I/O. I used stainless steel bolts and ground off the extra threads that stuck out. The only drawback is drilling stainless really requires a cobalt drill bit.<br /><br />My cost has been in the neighborhood of $15-20 per motor including bolts. A darn sight better than $99 for a skeguard and mine work just as well.<br /><br />Bob 
