anchor windlass

Fat Captain 2

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Sep 5, 2015
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I would like to install an anchor windlass on my 1998 key west 2020 wa. I was wondering which one would be the most practical one to buy. I do like to fish the inshore wrecks in 15 to 60 feet of water. Is there a windlass that I don't have to tie the anchor rope to a cleat when anchored?
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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The need to tie off defeats the purpose of a windlass. However, they are not cheap. You'll need a bow pulpit and a rode locker.

This is one of those cases where you get what you pay for. Nothing worst than a windlass you need to mess with all the time.

Plan on spending upwards of $1000 for a decent unit. A unit designed for use on a small lake will not cut it on big water. Lewmar makes a nice unit.

You want a unit with free fall. Anchoring with a power out winch doesn't cut it
 
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alldodge

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Agree with dingbat, are you willing to cut a hole in the boat and make a locker inside? Most of the good windless will hold without having to be tied off. They free fall and once you start pulling the rode back up then stop, it will hold.

Anchored.jpg
 

shrew

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If you read every single Windlass manufacturers instructions, they advise tying the anchor line to the cleat. The windlass is for deploying and retrieving the rode. Once the anchor is deployed they want you to take the pressure off of the gypsy by tying a line rode to a cleat. With an all chain rode, they use line snubbers to snub the chain. If you read further, they also don't recommend pulling the boat to the anchor with the windlass. Rather, to bump the engine into and out of gear to make slow forward motion and retrieve the slack line with the windlass.
 

muskyfins

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I use one of the trac units from here on iBoats on a 26' cruiser and it holds fine. I would think on a 20 fishing rig, you'd be good. Cost about $200.

EDIT: I should add that except for very shallow sand bottoms, I break the anchor free by hand before retrieving with the winch.
 
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lg260ss

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If you read every single Windlass manufacturers instructions, they advise tying the anchor line to the cleat. The windlass is for deploying and retrieving the rode. Once the anchor is deployed they want you to take the pressure off of the gypsy by tying a line rode to a cleat. With an all chain rode, they use line snubbers to snub the chain. If you read further, they also don't recommend pulling the boat to the anchor with the windlass. Rather, to bump the engine into and out of gear to make slow forward motion and retrieve the slack line with the windlass.

And this is why boat manufacturers install a cleat next to, or very near the windlass. Excellent post!
 

alldodge

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You should use the cleat, snubber, hook or bridle if your going to be there a while, like over night, or high winds. If you drop the anchor to got fishing, and a bit later move to another spot, the windless will hold just fine
 

dingbat

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You should use the cleat, snubber, hook or bridle if your going to be there a while, like over night, or high winds. If you drop the anchor to got fishing, and a bit later move to another spot, the windless will hold just fine
Yep. Tying off to a cleat totally defeats the purpose when fishing, assuming you can safely get to the bow in the first place... Don't wimp out on your winch and it's not a problem.
 

dingbat

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I use one of the trac units from here on iBoats on a 26' cruiser and it holds fine. I would think on a 20 fishing rig, you'd be good. Cost about $200.

The unit your suggesting holds 100 ft. of 3/16" braided rope..totally inappropriate for inshore wreck fishing to 60 ft. deep.

20 ft. of chain with 300 ft. of 1/2" line, min.
 

muskyfins

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The unit your suggesting holds 100 ft. of 3/16" braided rope..totally inappropriate for inshore wreck fishing to 60 ft. deep.

20 ft. of chain with 300 ft. of 1/2" line, min.

It's totally inappropriate for a 3 ton wind catching cruiser too. I was simply making the point that the gears held even on that unit without tying off to a cleat.
 
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