Alpha One Gen 1 - Can't get 6" on shift cable adjustment

NDIce

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May 15, 2023
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8
I'm out of ideas on adjusting this shift cable. I have been working on a 1985 Lund Tyee 5.5 with the 140/3.0L Mercruiser, serial # for the drive is shown below. I took the drive unit off to replace a bad seal on the driveshaft that was letting oil into the u-joint bellows and bilge. Resealed everything in the upper housing and passed the pressure tests. I replaced the impeller and upper impeller housing and seals, but didn't touch anything else in the lower housing since it pressure tested fine. I took the gimbal housing off to clean it up and replace the bellows, and had to cut the old shift cable to get it out since it was the reinforcement tube style. It did thread in from the aft end of the gimbal housing though so I didn't have to drill and tap anything.

I replaced the lower shift cable with a new style cable from a kit, picture of that below also. The description says it works for the Gen 1, Gen 2, MR & MC-1 drives 1978 and newer. When I reinstall the drive and have it shifted into forward gear with tension on the prop in the CCW direction, I can't adjust the brass barrel to 6" from the center of the eye because it hits the lock nut. The closest I can get is about 5 3/4". Why would that be?

I've taken the drive back off multiple times, and split the upper and lower and reassembled it to make sure the shift shaft isn't off by a spline. Same exact measurement when I reinstalled everything though, still short of the 6". Pushing and pulling on the cable without it attached to the linkage, I can shift it far enough to lock the prop in place for both forward and reverse. So I gave it a try just to see and, predictably, I can't adjust the control cable to a point where it will shift into both forward and reverse.

The control cable is also a different style than I see in most of the instructions, there is no brass barrel to turn and adjust. The plastic eye end threads onto the shaft to adjust the length.

I got a ton of good info here when I was rebuilding the driveshaft assembly and housing, so I am hoping there is something obvious that the brains here can pick up on and make me stop banging my head on the workbench!

Serial #
yBxugpyh.jpg


Cable kit
ieAFZoVh.jpg


This is where the splined shaft in the lower unit stopped in full forward with CCW tension on the prop. Should it stop with a spline straight forward/back?
bHTA5E3h.jpg


Shift linkage just before I slipped the drive assembly back on
QBOcedvh.jpg


Here's where I end up with the measurement on the new cable. No way that barrel will get to 6" with the cable pushed all the way in.
mGMEvFih.jpg


Overall of the shift assembly
ixIjclbh.jpg
 
Last edited:

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
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Is the foot that sits atop the splined shift shaft oriented correctly with proper engagement of the shift fork on the bellhousing?
 

flashback

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Jun 28, 2002
Messages
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Titan May be the problem, It doesn't seem to have enough length to get 6 inches. Maybe take the lock nut off?
 

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
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Yep, straight fore/aft for forward

The drive should be locked in full forward gear if everything is aligned correctly with the foot oriented as pictured

If you can't get the 6" adjustment I'd guess either the shift arm roller isn't aligned with the cable end slide, the cable itself is assembled wrong, or the parts used (look aftermarket) are not of correct spec/quality
 

flashback

Captain
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Jun 28, 2002
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Agree with dubs, when mounting the drive the slide can easily become disengaged with the roller..
 

NDIce

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May 15, 2023
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I did a bit more testing and took the jam nut off of the tube and then cheated the end adapter out so the end of the cable stops just short of getting into the witness hole. With the brass barrel turned all the way back against the end of the cable where the jam nut was, it's barely getting 6" now. I can get it to shift solidly into forward, but it doesn't seem to have enough travel now to get into reverse. If i shift to full reverse it'll click, and if I put just a little pressure on the shift arm to pull the cable out a touch more it'll clunk into reverse.

But I feel like that's way too much messing around with stuff too get it to work. Should be a real simple process.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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I did a bit more testing and took the jam nut off of the tube and then cheated the end adapter out so the end of the cable stops just short of getting into the witness hole. With the brass barrel turned all the way back against the end of the cable where the jam nut was, it's barely getting 6" now. I can get it to shift solidly into forward, but it doesn't seem to have enough travel now to get into reverse. If i shift to full reverse it'll click, and if I put just a little pressure on the shift arm to pull the cable out a touch more it'll clunk into reverse.

But I feel like that's way too much messing around with stuff too get it to work. Should be a real simple process.
Try a oem merc shift cable . Never had an issue with one ,last a long time
 

hopes&dreams83

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May 30, 2023
Messages
45
Try a oem merc shift cable . Never had an issue with one ,last a long time
I'm having the same issue. Thing is I've put a new engine and new outdrive in and I've installed each one multiple times through out this project and I'm just done with it. I don't want to take the drive off again. Could I get away with just pulling the tip of the cable just below the sight hole to get the adjustment space needed and just get the original cable for next season?
 

NDIce

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Joined
May 15, 2023
Messages
8
I'm having the same issue. Thing is I've put a new engine and new outdrive in and I've installed each one multiple times through out this project and I'm just done with it. I don't want to take the drive off again. Could I get away with just pulling the tip of the cable just below the sight hole to get the adjustment space needed and just get the original cable for next season?

I tried just about every adjustment to cheat that cable that I could think of, including what you mentioned. I could get forward fine but it still wouldn't quite shift into reverse.

My new OEM cable showed up yesterday, it took about 30 minutes start to finish from pulling the drive to having everything reinstalled and shifting properly. The new cable adjusted just like the instructions say it should. Worth it for the peace of mind vs. rigging something up to get that other cable to work.
 

hopes&dreams83

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May 30, 2023
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I tried just about every adjustment to cheat that cable that I could think of, including what you mentioned. I could get forward fine but it still wouldn't quite shift into reverse.

My new OEM cable showed up yesterday, it took about 30 minutes start to finish from pulling the drive to having everything reinstalled and shifting properly. The new cable adjusted just like the instructions say it should. Worth it for the peace of mind vs. rigging something up to get that other cable to work.
Yea I suspected this before I came here since I already had this issue with both the coupler and gimbal bearing. Thanks for the confirmation
 

hopes&dreams83

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May 30, 2023
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Do your self a favor and get the oem part will
Work great for years to come
I'll never buy anything but oem for boat parts again. I was able to break the bearing lose in a vice but I'll have to change it by next season since grease isn't making its way to the bearing. The coupler was out of round when I installed it. They really screwed me for a lot of time with these aftermarket parts. Never again
Lesson learned
 

Scott06

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I'll never buy anything but oem for boat parts again. I was able to break the bearing lose in a vice but I'll have to change it by next season since grease isn't making its way to the bearing. The coupler was out of round when I installed it. They really screwed me for a lot of time with these aftermarket parts. Never again
Lesson learned
We all learned that the hard way … at least you are well versed now in how to repair your boat.

We boat on a northern fresh water lake and when things like my original bellows and shift cable last 18 years no sense saving a few bucks for chinesium
 

hopes&dreams83

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May 30, 2023
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We all learned that the hard way … at least you are well versed now in how to repair your boat.

We boat on a northern fresh water lake and when things like my original bellows and shift cable last 18 years no sense saving a few bucks for chinesium
I agree definitely. I feel like a master boat tech now
 

hopes&dreams83

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May 30, 2023
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This is a nearly impossible achievement.

Much humility is required to achieve such status and few have the patience required to handle all aspects of boating life
Lol I know I was just joking. So much more i haven't put my hands on yet
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Mar 9, 2023
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We all learned that the hard way … at least you are well versed now in how to repair your boat.

We boat on a northern fresh water lake and when things like my original bellows and shift cable last 18 years no sense saving a few bucks for chinesium

"No sense saving a few bucks on Chinesium". Love that word. It's going in my dictionary now.
 
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