Alpha 1 Gen 2 Gimbal Puller

[Merccoper]

I'm not sure if I'm double posting, but I can't find the post I thought I submitted, so trying again.
I have a hammer puller with a not too good set of claws. Been trying for hours but not luck. I'm in the Toronto area.
Any help would really be appreciated!
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... Yer other thread was deleted for breakin' Our postin' rules, 'n guidelines,....

I edited it instead,...

Please read through 'em, a link is in my signature,....

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Check into axle bearing pullers with threaded pulling features using your own plates for a pulling point -- Autozone may have some fro loaners if your near one

such as https://www.harborfreight.com/rear-axle-bearing-puller-set-62960.html

 

[Rick Stephens]

Check into axle bearing pullers with threaded pulling features using your own plates for a pulling point -- Autozone may have some fro loaners if your near one

such as https://www.harborfreight.com/rear-axle-bearing-puller-set-62960.html

Exactly. Use whatever thread the appropriate puller end needs, put a plate across the bell housing, a couple washers, some grease and a nut. Crank it off.

 

[harringtondav]

I have several sets of slide hammer jaws ground for various Merc. stern drive bearings. Replacement jaws are fairly cheap online. A vise and an angle grinder will tune them in. Deepen the finger of the jaws by grinding back a little clearance on the outside of the jaws where they contact the gimbal brg. bore. Grind to the foot of the finger to increase it's inside reach. This will give you a better grip. Grease the inside of you puller cone, and jiggle the puller until the jaws are set tight to the bore.

I gave up on the slide hammer. I use the threaded shaft and the cone jaw expander. But I use a plate like shown in the attachment. This will bridge the bell hsg. You'll need a length of all thread rod the pitch of your puller, three nuts, and a very thick, well greased washer. One nut does the pulling. The other two are jammed together at the end of the threaded rod with a back up wrench to keep the rod from rotating. If you're handy with a grinder, you can put a pair of wrench flats on the end of the rod, and forget the two jam nuts.

 

[thumpar]

I have used the puller Autozone has for their loan-a-tool program. It is called the 2/3 jaw puller I think. I did it the first time with bellhousing off and last time with bellhousing left on.

 

[G_Hipster]

I too used the Auto Zone tool. A bearing puller that has the pivoting crossbar Vs. fingers. You will need the proper tool to install it if you don't already have it so as not to beat the bearing in by the inner race.

 

[Alumarine]

Partsource or Canadian tire might have the axle jaws in their loan a tool program.

 

[Merccoper]

Thanks for everyone's input.
I've got the jaws to attach, but hammer/me are not strong enough to pull hammer it out. I tried finding a threaded bar to attach to the jaws, but can not find a threaded bar big enough with the smaller thread diameter. Time to try hammering again I guess!

 

[tank1949]

I'm not sure if I'm double posting, but I can't find the post I thought I submitted, so trying again.
I have a hammer puller with a not too good set of claws. Been trying for hours but not luck. I'm in the Toronto area.
Any help would really be appreciated!
Thanks,
Tim

Before u pull bearing, check the shaft/coupler alignment. If you add a new bearing, you may bump inner bearing race as you hammer it in, and then panic when tool doesn't move freely when testing. Besides, you should always test for alignment when new equipment is added. Good luck!

 

[Leardriver]

The axle bearing puller that I have uses a 5/8-18 thread pattern, which is fine thread. I found a threaded rod online that was one foot long for less than $10 shipped. The nut and washers are at local home stores.
I made a plate for the end of the housing out of a 2x6, backed up with a flat piece of steel. I suspect that it will work fine for yanking a stubborn bearing out.

 

[harringtondav]

We have an industrial hyd. hose and fastener store here that can come up with any fitting or fastener, or all-thread rod. You'll have to buy 3', but boating is not for the meek of wallet. $12 for a 3' length. Get the thread pitch on your slide hammer, get the rod, and fit up a bell hsg puller as described many times above. Toronto is much larger than where I live, so someone will be glad to sell you the all-thread.

 

[JohnsonBargeMan]

Thanks again for all the input.
I found the pivot type puller. Was all happy when it slid in then the sadness came when I found out there wasn’t enough clearance behind the bearing for it to pivot flat again. Searched multiple stores for claw pullers, but they were either too big (I don’t have the tools for grinding and resizing) or too cheap. Sadness in defeat! I think I’ve lost a week of use only to have to take it to a shop and wait a couple more weeks.

 

[JohnsonBargeMan]

Well, I suppose you regulars and experienced guys are tired of my story, but I'm back to happy again!
I went back and rented the pivot puller (the one I could not get to set properly because of not having enough clearance behind the bearing. I spent about an hour twisting and turning the bearing and finally got it to seat correctly. Then, two whacks with the hammer puller and out it came!

For those less experienced (like me) doing it for the first, find the right (or most right) tool.
I first used the pilot bearing puller with the slide hammer. Whack on it for a couple of hours and no movement.
Then used a Rear Axle bearing remover, size 1.25 inch. This in the one that has a pivot head. It was a pig to get seated. But once it was, two whacks later and it was out.

I was going to do the bellows this time around but I think (because I don't want to start it and find a stumbling block) I'll install the new bearing and put it back together and hope the summer doesn't do it to much trouble.

Again, thank your for everyone's input.