Alpha 1 Gen 1 Upper Unit Hex Bolt Connecting Halves Broke Off

[JimEd B]

Greetings,

Working on an alpha 1 gen 1 drive, and when I went to separate the halves, the hex bolt which connects two halves at the stern (hidden by anode) twisted right off.

To be clear I'm not describing the captive bolt that connects the anode, but the one that goes up from the bottom to join the halves.

So now I've got a bolt stuck in the upper, and my quick water pump and shift lever job just turned into a royal PITA. I'd hopped relieving tension may have loosened by not dice. Heat didn't work. Vice grips didn't work. I'm sure you all can relate.

Anyhow, just figured I'd check in with the folks here about any experience with this. My current drill bits are not up to the task, so assuming I'll need to go procure some carbide and spend a day drilling the dang thing out.

Anyone else have a magic trick?

 

[Scott06]

Greetings,

Working on an alpha 1 gen 1 drive, and when I went to separate the halves, the hex bolt which connects two halves at the stern (hidden by anode) twisted right off.

To be clear I'm not describing the captive bolt that connects the anode, but the one that goes up from the bottom to join the halves.

So now I've got a bolt stuck in the upper, and my quick water pump and shift lever job just turned into a royal PITA. I'd hopped relieving tension may have loosened by not dice. Heat didn't work. Vice grips didn't work. I'm sure you all can relate.

Anyhow, just figured I'd check in with the folks here about any experience with this. My current drill bits are not up to the task, so assuming I'll need to go procure some carbide and spend a day drilling the dang thing out.

Anyone else have a magic trick?

if the portion left is up on the surface usually I weld a nut to it and can get it off. Of course this only works if you have access to a mig or tig welder or welding shop. Usually the heat welding it helps loosen it up. if you can thread the nut on whats left and tack it on

If you can get bigger better vice grips, more heat and some time and patience to let a good penetrating oil like Kroil get in the threads that would help.

 

[JimEd B]

Yeah, to all of the above. I do have a small harbor freight welder, but I must admit my skills are pretty deficient. I dont want to blast a hole in my upper if I can avoid it.

Going to give it another torching, douse it in oil and walk away till the weekend with shattered hopes of wrapping it up during this rare dry spell in western wa.

Eventually I'll learn never to anticipate a boat project to be quick and easy.

 

[Scott06]

Yeah, to all of the above. I do have a small harbor freight welder, but I must admit my skills are pretty deficient. I dont want to blast a hole in my upper if I can avoid it.

Going to give it another torching, douse it in oil and walk away till the weekend with shattered hopes of wrapping it up during this rare dry spell in western wa.

Eventually I'll learn never to anticipate a boat project to be quick and easy.

put perfect seal/permatex #3 on the threads when you go back in keeps them from locking up.

you wont blast a hole in the upper trying to weld- use a thick washer or nut weld on the inside of the nut or hole in washer to the bolt , weld the nut to the washer etc. you will be amazed how this heat into the bolt helps loosen it up then work it back and forth. put oil on threads while it cools as it will suck it in.

 

[Bt Doctur]

try a product called Free-All it does wonders
additionally you can drill 2 small holes right alongside the bolt to allow penentrant to get into the threads, this does not affect the strength in the housing

 

[Fun Times]

With the head of the bolt removed now, maybe treat it like a stud and use a Stud Extractor tool to help get it to come out… still would need more heat and oil though should you not want to use the welding trick.

 

[JimEd B]

All great tips. I did not do as planed.

I got bold and attempted the welder. As stated, I'm not even a novice welder. Its my diy Achilles heel. I always took wood shop to make sailboat parts, lol.

I got the nut welded on about 3 times, but twisted off each time. Went back to what I know. This is that last straw though, I'm going down a YouTube welding rabbit hole tonight.

Picked up some cobalt bits (titanium didnt work, but cobalt did fine) about 3 sizes smaller than the bolt, filed it flatish, center punched it (measure w/ calipers, need to be dead nuts) and drilled it out by hand. I peeled the the remaining male threads out with a pick and some needlenose and cleaned up the female threads with a tap.

Took maybe 30 mins once I got going.

Now to get the water pump done, replace a u-joint and slap her back on.

I especially appreciate the tip on permatex #3, I will definitely be doing this. Was considering installing a stud and nut. Has anyone done this?

 

[JimEd B]

For any future readers:

Upon further reading on my welding failure for those reading this in the future, it seems the bolt is stainless (3/8 - 16 x 1 inch) and my flux core welding setup did not have appropriate wire to bond to the stainless.

 

[Scott06]

For any future readers:

Upon further reading on my welding failure for those reading this in the future, it seems the bolt is stainless (3/8 - 16 x 1 inch) and my flux core welding setup did not have appropriate wire to bond to the stainless.

Yeah even on mig you need different wire and a trim is gas for optimal penetration. Most time I use a Tig for this stuff. Maybe got some heat in there anyways.
only did flux core once never again… it was good because it was outside work but the splatter was insane