Alarms

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
just want to no what i can check my alarms with off so i had to shut my motor down let it cool off than proceed what it does seem like to me at 3000 rpm's temp is around 160 when i get to maybe 4000 rpm's temp does start to climb did not let the alarms go off again but i'm assuming they would have if i kept at the 4000. I have a 200TXL77C any help plz
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Alarms

Looks like time for an impeller change, perhaps even a complete new water pump housing as well. Double check/replace the big rubber seal between leg and gearcase. If leaking, exhaust might enter the pump.
 

toddschubert

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
504
Re: Alarms

agree w Haff. Different motor but with new water pump mine runs cooler the faster I go.
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

agree w Haff. Different motor but with new water pump mine runs cooler the faster I go.
Not to be a *** but what else could it be ? I was told to do my defectors in the head or do you guys think I need a new pump reason I'm asking is when I did take the lower unit off it looked fine to me or can it be when it's at a higher rpm the impeller is not working right ??
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

Just asking over again can someone tell me If I change the water pump anyway to test after I change it or do I have to put the boat back in the water to test ? ALso was just doing a little reading could a pressure valve also cause this,or should i just stick with the complete water pump change housing and impeller ect....
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

sorry to post again but just need a little more feedback if possible so i can do this today as i will not be in front of a computer or have a phone to look at because i need to get the work done thanks in advance
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Alarms

1977 200hp Johnson

To test your warning horn...... Engine not running BUT key in ON position... Find the TAN wire protruding from either cylinder head, slide the insulating sleeve back and ground that connection to the powerhead. The horn should sound, does it? If not, find out why as that is the only warning you'll receive if the engine overheats.

Due to the age of that engine, it would be best to replace the water deflectors and head gaskets along with the thermostats and water pump to restore the engine's cooling supply to normal..... or at least check those items.

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

thanks Joe but what I want to know anyway to do just the water pump complete and test that to see if that will solve my problem than after the season I'll do the defectors ?
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

Joe I was asking lol if there is a way to test after I do the pump before I put it back in the water or is that the only way to test it ? Also if I run around 3000 rpm temp is fine only when I hit around 4500 starts to climb , could anything have been stuck and than free up also just asking
 
Last edited:

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Alarms

Only way to test to know for sure what the water pump is or is not doing is to have the rig in the water.

And as far as sticking, I have had a thermostat or two stick temporarily... As Forest Gump would say "It happens."
 

mobgod

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
179
Re: Alarms

Ok so you think maybe they got stuck because like I said at 3000 was running fine np I guess I need to go out again and test that report back
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Re: Alarms

Go water test it first before doing anything else and get back to us. That's after the new water pump.
 
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