Advice junk it or fix it 55hp chrysler outboard

[Badhog50]

Model outboard number 5573
Serial number 12685
Just bought it from the Disabled Veterans Association
Found a small crack in lower unit
This fixable? Or junk?
Motor strong but will quit in neutral. To start it I have to give it throttle then when I bring it back to neutral it will shut off. I do have pictures of the crack but I don't know how to upload them on here. It's a
55 hp chrysler outboard

 

[wickware]

No Title

My Quick Tips to upload a picture attachment;

1. Select the post you want to reply to and it will ask write something (add your text ).
2. In this case I?m showing the impeller flexed after all the years before changing it. Lucky Me due to low hours!
3. Select the Camera Icon, select upload, show where the file is located (C: Pics Etc), sel the file, sel upload and it should appear.
4. Select Upload More to upload more. There is probably a limit of 5-7 and sized under 1meg (as properties).
5. Select continue to add the attachments to your reply.

Good Luck on the tips! What did I miss?

 

[Frank Acampora]

If it starts and runs, everything else is fixable. The stalling would be a synchronizing problem or simply an idle speed too low. Depending upon the crack in the lower unit, it may be repairable or it may need replacing. A used lower unit from Chrysler up through Force 50 HP engines will bolt right up although you may need to change the shift linkage--but that's minor.

Judging by the model number your engine is somewhere around 1967. The first two digits indicate the horsepower and the last two digits indicate ignition type and long or short shaft engine.. For example my 1967 Chrysler is model 5555. It is (1,2) 55 horsepower, (3) magneto ignition with electric start, (4) and long shaft.

 

[Badhog50]

Ok will show you the crack in the lower unit. I hope you can see the damage. If you can your thoughts or direction to go?

 

[Badhog50]

The stalling would be a synchronizing problem or simply an idle speed too low.
Please could you walk me through each of these processes
I am a rookie to outboards but I am willing and do want to learn!
My intentions are to rebuild and to restore this boat/motor if possible

 

[Badhog50]

My email address is armorysgt45@gmail.com if this would be easier

 

[Frank Acampora]

Well, the broken prop shaft bearing carrier (behind the prop) Is replaceable but a new one is costly so look for one on ebay. The crack in the side Is IFFY. It can be welded but a crack there is very rare-- probably due to water freezing inside the lower unit. Water would cause all internals to be rusted indicating necessity for complete lower unit replacement.

As I said above, you can replace the lower unit at relatively modest cost if you search on craigslist or ebay and are not in a hurry. Again. Any lower unit from a Chrysler or Force 45,50, or 55 up until about 1990 will bolt right up.

Now, the decision is yours: If you can find a used lower unit for around 200 bucks, you will have an engine worth 200-300 bucks--IF it is in good running condition. Otherwise you have an engine worth whatever you can get for good parts.

 

[Nordin]

Just a little more info. Gearcase from early Chrysler 35Hp 1965 to 1975 will also fit to your engine.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Yes, Nordin but I did not mention them because I did not want to cause confusion. Chrysler did change the 35 and use a different gearcase. Also they changed the 20 to the same 55 gearcase but put in different gears and smaller diameter drive shaft. --Too confusing for a novice.

 

[Badhog50]

More photos

 

[Badhog50]

I appreciate all your help

 

[Nordin]

Yes Frank, just what to give him more alternative if he will buy from ebay or craiglist.

The 35Hp from 1976 had the same propshaft (for a 10 3/8 dia prop) but with smaler diameter drivshaft.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Your engine is electric start with battery ignition and alternator. It has the old style selenium rectifier and no regulator however power output from the alternator is so low that no rectifier is necessary. It will only recharge the battery drained by starting. You can not run accessories such as stereo equipment from this without draining the battery. You can run accessories such as tachometer and other dash board instruments and possibly running lights.

 

[Badhog50]

Appreciate all your help

 

[oldboat1]

looks like a nice, clean motor. I really liked my early '70s model 55. Only issue over three years or so was with the starter, and that was because I didn't know how to diagnose a starter problem.

think I would try to patch up the lower unit so you can test out the rest, while shopping for a replacement. Given what folks ask for parts, you might consider getting a complete parts motor ("donor" motors, around here) with a good lower unit -- best case would be a running motor, but parts is parts. Look for a sister motor first (55hp) -- pretty popular size, and maybe big/hefty enough that somebody will be happy to see you remove it from their shed.

 

[flyingscott]

Only thing i would say is don't worry about your idle until the lower unit is fixed. A bad bearing will cause the idle problems you are having.

 

[oldboat1]

interesting point. A bearing could sure cause operating issues if it was binding, though I'm not sure what bearing we are talking about. Gears freezing up would cause a stall -- at least. If you know there is any kind of gear damage, it would be a bad idea to run the motor in gear -- and probably a risk to run it at all. Assuming the only known defect is a crack, though, I suggest you patch up the crack (above), and fill the gearcase. If it functions OK, think you could proceed with running tests in a tank to work on idle. I think it would be a stretch to infer that there is a gearcase issue causing a bad idle, absent evidence of any other damage. (Think the bearing carrier housing could be patched up too for testing purposes.) But if uncomfortable with any of that, then of course just hold off until a replacement l.u. is available.