Adding a clear coat ???

[tpenfield]

I have been attempting to really clean and shine the hull this year, since it has been getting a bit dull/dirty/stained and has a few docking marks on the hull. I've been using a floor wax stripper liquid to cut through the years of wax and polishing compounds. Also using a scrub pad to get down to the gelcoat, which I can see some of the white coming off in the rinse water.

The nice thing is that I've been able to get rid of some ugly marks on the hull that I have not been able to remove previously. The only problem is that the hull dries to a fairly dull finish . . . very clean , but dull.

I'm not one to do a whole bunch of sanding, compounding, and buffing to get back to a shine. (BTDT ) I've been thinking of possibly adding a clear gelcoat, or maybe something like Duratec Hi-Gloss to bring back the shine. I like the aspect of adding material rather than taking it away.

Just wondering what the collective wisdom of the forum here says in terms of clear coating the gelcoat . . . certain products, techniques, etc. I'd want something that allows a good amount of working time, if it is a catalyst type of product.

Here are a few pictures. . . . the boat is wet in these pictures so it shines. Once it dries, it is dull. . . clean, but dull

I need to shine up the hull, deck, and aft.
.

.
TIA for any advice on adding a shine.

 

[alldodge]

No advice, never tried to do clear. Mine still looks pretty good but its is stored inside in a covered slip

Would sure like to hear how someone would do it

 

[ahicks]

I tried Imron one time, back when it first came out (early 80's?). Looked good for a couple of months, but then I wish I hadn't done it. It turned white and lost it's shine below the water line and looked terrible.

Today, after learning that lesson, I would likely be more or a wheeling and buffing mindset. That or new marine paint of some sort.

 

[tpenfield]

I tried Imron one time, back when it first came out (early 80's?). Looked good for a couple of months, but then I wish I hadn't done it. It turned white and lost it's shine below the water line and looked terrible.

Today, after learning that lesson, I would likely be more or a wheeling and buffing mindset. That or new marine paint of some sort.

Imron clear did you mean? I had not thought of that . . . Brilliant Don't need anything below the water line,and the color graphics on my boat are Imron. Just don't want to sand compound them, because they are 24 years old and getting thin already.


How did the stuff above the waterline look after a few months/years?

 

[gm280]

Actually every automotive paint supplier out there has a few clear coat options available. I've used PPG products with great results. Problem is, I've never ever applied any clear coat over gel-coat before. So how well that would work over time is anybody's guess. Could do a very small area that wasn't too noticeable and see first. And ever type clear coat I've used was a catalyst mix, being clear coat and hardener. JMHO.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ted, with the shine you have, you only need to have a crew of 20 something girls in bikini's keep applying wax and buffing with soft rags like the large yachts do it.....

that will work just fine until the Admiral comes and hits you up the back of the head and renames the boat "was his"

pretty sure duratec is an additive that needs to be added to gel. most likely you could sand down your exterior with 80 grit and apply a clear gel / duratec 904 mix. however seams like a lot of work.

the two polishing compounds that ondarvr told me to use were Aquabuff 2000 and follow it with finesse it (3M).

I did mine with a HF variable speed buffer at about 1900 RPM, then hit the hull with mequiar's cleaning wax followed by a few layers of wax

 

[tpenfield]

OK,I sent Jody W a note to see what he says. I do have a new buffing wheel thingy I could try out. Sure would like to coat it with something substantial.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sure would like to coat it with something substantial.

the answer is above

you only need to have a crew of 20 something girls in bikini's keep applying wax and buffing with soft rags like the large yachts do it.....

https://www.deckhanddetailing.com/our-book.html

 

[ahicks]

Yes, clear. It was fine for the time I had it. Somebody decided they wanted to take care of the boat more than I did the following season. That was the last time I saw it - maybe a year into the paint job.

80 grit prep is going to create gouges. Imron and other clears are not like bottom paint. 180 or even 220 would be what I would use.

 

[Scott Danforth]

correct, axalta (imron) would require finer grit. however duratec and gel requires 80 grit.

 

[gm280]

WOW 80 grit is what you usually use to grind down body fillers and such before the first shot of a high build primer coat. But I have never shot gel-coat either!

 

[tpenfield]

I got word back from Jody Wyse . . . He indicated that all of the clear gelcoats will discolor to some extent. The thinner the coat, the less noticeable it is. There is a Duratec product called "Sunshield" that goes on thinner.

His recommendation was to experiment with the 'easy-on, easy-off' products (like Poliglow or Vertglas) for now and then look into the ceramic products going forward as the prices will probably come down over time.

 

[ahicks]

Epoxy is terrible on topsides. You won't get through an entire season before that becomes apparent. From the lessons learned the hard way notes.

I wasn't aware that the clears used in base coat/clear coat would discolor. Maybe something like that would work out? The rest I have no experience with.

 

[tpenfield]

As I think more about this undertaking, I may do the quick/easy route for now and then plan on re-painting the color graphics in a couple of years. By then I can have figured out a longer term approach for the gelcoat.

I had planned on keeping the boat only a few more years, but economic realities over the next few years may extend that :noidea:

 

[froggy1150]

I saw a video on boatworkstoday about a polishing compound. He posted within a few months ago. I don't know how well it is for real but he does show how it well its suppose to work......

 

[tpenfield]

TotalBoat Brand "Total Buff" ?

 

[harringtondav]

This is anecdotal. My boating pal was vacationing down in FL He noticed the gorgeous, shinny cruisers and yachts baking in the open sun. He asked someone at the Marina how they kept the UV fade off. Guy said "these boats are painted."

I'd think an automotive two part/activated clear coat with flex additive would work. This is what is on newer white vehicles. I've never noticed any fading or yellowing. Three mils min. is self leveling, and should glass over prep sanding. Properly applied it's shoot, cure, and walk away with a new car shine.

 

[tpenfield]

A quick update . . .

I went with the 'quick and easy' approach (ZEP Wetlook) for this year just to prevent stains, etc. from setting into the gelcoat. I'll take a longer look over the next couple of years to see about painting vs. a gelcoat type of topcoat, etc.

Just got to figure out a balance of continuing to fix up the boat vs. how long I will actually keep it . . . having visions of a 370 Super Sport or a 350 Cross-over at some point down the road. :noidea:

 

[SDSeville]

How hard is it to remove the "ZEP Wetlook" if you decide to do something else down the road?

 

[tpenfield]

How hard is it to remove the "ZEP Wetlook" if you decide to do something else down the road?

There is a removal product that takes it right up with a small amount of scrubbing. Poli-Glow products also has a prep solution that takes it off.

I may go with a re-paint of the graphics in a few years, so that would be the time to do the whole thing in something permanent. Our friend Jody W told me to keep an eye on the ceramic products, which are currently expensive, but may come down in price by then.