Add trim assembly

froggy1150

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I have 1972 reinell 21 foot cuddy with omc 190 & electric stringer. I am in progress of floor and stringers replacement. It didn't come with trim assembly. Before I get this all glassed together if I wanted to add the trim stuff how hard is it to add and is it possible....
 

southkogs

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On an electric shift you're going to have to find the trim assembly. Selectrim was a part of the front motor mount, and was a jack screw assembly. hardest part is probably finding the whole set that works. Once you've done that, the assembly should be relatively easy.
 

Bondo

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Before I get this all glassed together if I wanted to

Ayuh,..... Before ya glass it up, ya oughta find a Merc, or Volvo driveline package to bolt in there,......

Find a rotten donor boat, it's the cheapest, easiest way to go 'bout it,.....
 

froggy1150

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Well I already went thru the leg and that's all good. So at this point I will use it til it grenades:target:
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
​. I never had this boat on water and don't know how it will handle. I would hate to get it out and find that it does need trim, go to put the assembly in and have one of those...... "if I did that when I was glassing" moments.
I have seen 2 styles.
A pump and dual cylinder setup
and the center screw Jack.
not sure what this i/o would have came with. The answer I was hoping get for was going to be something like " when these boats were built they were built the same and ordered with or without" or no trim were made this way and trim were made that way....
 

southkogs

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You basically got it ... when you ordered the drive, you could order it with Selectrim or without. The 190 wasn't available until '74, but it was still electric shift. In the '74 190 you had the option of the engine mount group being fixed, or having the selectrim jackscrew in the front mount. Hydraulic trim (still the front mount) wouldn't be available until 1975.

You could probably manage to frankenstein either system together on the front mount if it all mated up, but either will be a search for no-longer-available parts to get the setup going.

Bondo's point is that while you're reworking all of the glass ... re-do the transom and put a Merc or Volvo in now. The Stringer's hole is bigger than any other sterndrive produced. Once you cut the transom for a Stringer, you have to rebuild the transom in order to convert to another driveline. Since you're already knee deep in the work ... you can more easily convert now if you want to.

OMC went out of business in the 90s and stopped producing stern drives. The Stringer models haven't been produced since 1986, and the electric shift models were done by 1976. It's a vintage drive, a little quirky and many marine service techs have never seen one (let alone worked on one). Just be prepared that you're going to be having to care for an antique with that drive.
 

froggy1150

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Transom is done and one side of the engine stringer. The other is almost done. I rebuilt the outdrive already. New bearings seals etc....
I didn't think it was difficult at all but I have been wrenchin since about 7..... 43 years ago:D and not all normal stuff either. From cars and heavy equipment to all types of Rollercoaster and hydraulic motion bases. I don't mind the maintenance..... I didn't have a problem getting parts either. The one thing I plan to buy that I have not seen to many of are the lower clutch assembly. At this point I am in it. When I got it "all is good just need impeller and put interior together" waaa wa waaaa.
the trim thing was just a wild thought last night. And I posted wrong..... it is a 74
 

southkogs

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I actually like the Stringers. They have a some advantages over the modern systems. You just have to be "eyes wide open" about what you've gotten yourself into, and the realities of owning a vintage (obsolete / old / finicky) drive. Otherwise, you can keep them going and even enjoy them.
 

froggy1150

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So for the most part I got a complete trim setup for the 190 hp for $20 on eblah :laugh:. Suppose to run but have not tested but I have what I need to mount motor. I couldn't find documents in either of my books.
2 questions....
1. What port extends rams/motor up ....trim down.
2. I am missing the one bushing and the tubing tee. Is there anything that goes in that upper cavity?
thanks again...
 

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southkogs

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Not an expert on the hydraulic set at all: that must be from a 75 or later, I think.

The trim cylinder is another piece (not pictured) that the hydraulics run to. It houses the piston that raises and lowers the engine.

That upper cavity in the photo is where the brackets mount to the engine, I believe.
 

Bondo

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So for the most part I got a complete trim setup for the 190 hp for $20 on eblah :laugh:. Suppose to run but have not tested but I have what I need to mount motor. I couldn't find documents in either of my books.
2 questions....
1. What port extends rams/motor up ....trim down.
2. I am missing the one bushing and the tubing tee. Is there anything that goes in that upper cavity?
thanks again...

Ayuh,..... That looks like a pump/ motor,.....

Fill it up, 'n jumper the wires,..... oil will shoot out 1 port with 1 wire, 'n the other port, with the other wire,......
 

froggy1150

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There is a manual pressure relief down bypass screw so it should matter which port carries the weight of the motor. I would like to try to install it once right and not have to rebend tubing
 

froggy1150

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Also I am talking about the cavity with the pipe threads. Not the mount for the pump. The pic you can't see in there but there is a big void like for a little screen filter or something. Kinda like a carb where you put the filter in and then screw the pipe fitting in after....
 

southkogs

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I'm gettin' too far outta' what I know about. This should be the assembly, but I'm just not familiar with it beyond this point.

TRIM PUMP.png
 

froggy1150

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So the trim assembly I got was all together and had been painted at some point so I know for the most part it was installed all together. I am mounting motor today and noticed the port and starboard rams are identical. They are offset about 1 inch. I would have thought there would have been a different part number on each side. It throws the cross bracket a few degrees off square. Was this normal or did I get 2 rams from the same side
 

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froggy1150

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Either this is how they are made or I am not the only one.... you can see the offsets by looking at the gussets
 

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