Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

[TulsaTime]

With the winter months approaching fast, I'm getting mixed information on what the best or required method is for winterizing an inboard/outboard.
You can get the winterization kits and expensive rv antifreeze and run that thru the block via muffs or just drain the block, push all remaining water out with compressed air and remove the impeller housing hoses.
We live in Tulsa Oklahoma and don't have very long periods of time where we stay below freezing...maybe 1 or 2 weeks per year if that.

This is for our newer '06 Stingray, 3.0L Volvo / SX Leg

Thanks,

Regards,
TulsaTime

 

[Don S]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

If you are going to keep using your boat year round, then learn to drain it between uses. On a 3.0L engine, it's a 10 minute job once you get used to what you need to drain. Forget using muffs and antifreeze on a raw water cooled engine, or the 1 or 2 times a year could cost you an engine.
Click here and have a read of of items 6 and 7.
Winterization is also a time to do preventive maintenance, not just keep the boat from freezing. Boats take some care if you want to keep them running during the summer months.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

I drain the water from the block & manifold on my 3.0. I also add antifreeze to both. But, I also live in the northeast where below zero is not uncommon. And I stay away from "winterization" kits. Been doing it that way for more than 15 yrs., so it works for me. Ain't cracked anything yet.

 

[fat fanny]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Best practice is to drain and blow out all water from block, mani and hoses including the water pump after all the drian plugs are removed and then refill with a/f re-inserting the drain plugs as the a/f gets to those levels it also helps keep the inside of the castings from rusting any further than normal seasonal use. Also follow the pracice of stabilizing the fuel and fogging the engine to protect the cylinders and internals from corrosion if the rig is to be put up for the winter season over the last 10 yrs I have gotten this process down to an hour job and thats taking my time. Stabilize fuel,fog engine, drain block mani and hoses and then re-fill with A/F.

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Isn't somebody gonna say "air don't freeze"?
I'd leave the anti-freeze in it, said that the other day and the post just "disappeared".

 

[superbenk]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Isn't somebody gonna say "air don't freeze"?
I'd leave the anti-freeze in it, said that the other day and the post just "disappeared".

I'll say it... "air doesn't freeze"... cause it doesn't

 

[truckermatt]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

drain and blow.... along with the regular maintinence

 

[Lou C]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Most important is to make sure you got all the drains and hoses that can hold water, probe openings and make sure they drain. You drain to prevent freeze damage, adding AF is more to prevent additional corrosion. The only way to add AF in my opinion is to drain and then back fill through the hoses. There may be a power steering cooler that needs to be drained...and if the Volvo is an SX drive, there is a slot on the edge of the foward face of the upper unit that is supposed to drain water, if it does not the housing can crack. So check that too, I think it is on the right hand side as you face the rear of the drive, look for a slot about the width of a large screwdriver blade between the upper unit and pivot housing....

 

[zbnutcase]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Just drain it. Antifreeze is a complete and total waste of money, not to mention an environmental mess. Trust me, the engine will be replaced for other reasons LONG before it turns to rust dust. And, oh yeah, have I mentioned lately, air doesn't freeze?

 

[SteveRay]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

I drain completely and backflush from the Tstat housing through all the hoses just to ensure that I haven't missed any water....I only end up using roughly 2 gallons of the pink stuff.....Just peace of mind I haven't missed any water and if I did it is greatly diluted.

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Just drain it. Antifreeze is a complete and total waste of money, not to mention an environmental mess. Trust me, the engine will be replaced for other reasons LONG before it turns to rust dust. And, oh yeah, have I mentioned lately, air doesn't freeze?

Environmental mess? it is non-toxic a/f. Your car is more of an environmental mess.
Let me say this again, since the last time I posted it , someone deleted the whole post. As a sprinkler fitter, I replace way more pipes on "dry" sprinkler systems than those filled with water/glycol. In fact, I have never had to replace a pipe on a "wet" system pipe due to "rust through". Sure, Air may not freeze (sounds like a broken record on this forum) but it is corrosive. It has the same moisture in it that you try to keep out of your gas by adding stabilizer. No one said it would turn to dust, but I am sure that YOU will be replacing YOUR engine for some other reason.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

As a sprinkler fitter, I replace way more pipes on "dry" sprinkler systems than those filled with water/glycol. In fact, I have never had to replace a pipe on a "wet" system pipe due to "rust through". Sure, Air may not freeze (sounds like a broken record on this forum) but it is corrosive.

Ayuh,... There's also a World of difference between black iron Pipe, 'n a grey iron motor Block....

I dare say a motor block will Never rust out from being stored Dry....

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Ayuh,... There's also a World of difference between black iron Pipe, 'n a grey iron motor Block....

I dare say a motor block will Never rust out from being stored Dry....

That "grey Iron" is cast iron, and it WILL rust!!!

 

[zbnutcase]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Ayuh,... There's also a World of difference between black iron Pipe, 'n a grey iron motor Block....

I dare say a motor block will Never rust out from being stored Dry....

I wouldn't say never....250-300 yrs maybe-long after sprinkler pipes are gone...

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

I wouldn't say never....250-300 yrs maybe-long after sprinkler pipes are gone...

Most sprinkler pipes will out live you and your engine!

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Sprinkler pipes ROCK!

I love those Schedule 40 Muthas!

Oh Yeah!

Johnny

BTW, (this is intended to make you laugh!)

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Sprinkler pipes ROCK!

I love those Schedule 40 Muthas!

Oh Yeah!

Johnny

BTW, (this is intended to make you laugh!)

Laugh at this!

CA350
Loosen hose clamps and remove the following hoses:
5 From engine circulating pump.
6 Make sure that speedometer pilot tube, trim tab cavity vent hole,
and trim tab cavity drain passage are unobstructed.
After cooling system has been drained completely, install drain
plugs, reconnect hoses and tighten all hose clamps securely.

IMPORTANT: MerCruiser recommends that propylene glycol (a
nontoxic and environmentally safe) antifreeze be used in the
seawater section of the cooling system for cold weather or ex-
tended storage. Make sure that the propylene glycol antifreeze
contains a rust inhibitor and is recommended for use in marine
engines. Be certain to follow the propylene glycol manufactur-
er's recommendations.

7 For additional assurance against freezing and rust, remove the
thermostat cover and thermostat. Fill the engine seawater cooling
system with a mixture of antifreeze and tap water mixed to manufac-
turer's recommendation to protect engine to the lowest temperature
to which it will be exposed during cold weather or extended storage.
Using a new gasket, reinstall thermostat and cover. Tighten cover
bolts securely.
Perform all checks, inspections, lubrication, and fluid changes out-
lined in MAINTENANCE CHART under AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.

I think I'll follow the manufacturers advice and not some backyard mechanics who have "gotten by"

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Ah,

That procedure is EXACTLY what I have done in the past.

Man, sprinkler fitting must make you very angry. (bad union?)

Ooops, my getting by alarm is going off, I gotta go!

LOL

Johnny

 

[egclassic]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Ah,

That procedure is EXACTLY what I have done in the past.

Man, sprinkler fitting must make you very angry. (bad union?)

Ooops, my getting by alarm is going off, I gotta go!

LOL

Johnny

Nope! just people like you giving others bad info.

 

[jetmart]

Re: Add Anti-Freeze or Just Drain & Blow?

Laugh at this!

CA350
Loosen hose clamps and remove the following hoses:
5 From engine circulating pump.
6 Make sure that speedometer pilot tube, trim tab cavity vent hole,
and trim tab cavity drain passage are unobstructed.
After cooling system has been drained completely, install drain
plugs, reconnect hoses and tighten all hose clamps securely.

IMPORTANT: MerCruiser recommends that propylene glycol (a
nontoxic and environmentally safe) antifreeze be used in the
seawater section of the cooling system for cold weather or ex-
tended storage. Make sure that the propylene glycol antifreeze
contains a rust inhibitor and is recommended for use in marine
engines. Be certain to follow the propylene glycol manufactur-
er's recommendations.

7 For additional assurance against freezing and rust, remove the
thermostat cover and thermostat. Fill the engine seawater cooling
system with a mixture of antifreeze and tap water mixed to manufac-
turer's recommendation to protect engine to the lowest temperature
to which it will be exposed during cold weather or extended storage.
Using a new gasket, reinstall thermostat and cover. Tighten cover
bolts securely.
Perform all checks, inspections, lubrication, and fluid changes out-
lined in MAINTENANCE CHART under AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.

I think I'll follow the manufacturers advice and not some backyard mechanics who have "gotten by"

I was going to do it the way the manual said but there is several hoses that go into the thermostat housing that are above the thermostat that would not get A/F in it. I decided to run it to get the thermostat open, drain all the water from the 5 plugs and then run A/F in the engine using muffs.