a different stereo/dual switch question

[sheltonoil]

Following some instructions from Crutchfield, I'm looking for clarification to a question I can't find here, apologies if I missed it. I installed a hi-power Sony head unit for more juice w/o having to add an amp. It cut out at higher volumes, and Crutchfield said I need to run the power directly to the battery rather than through the harness connectors. I spliced into the Sony's power line BEFORE the boat connector and ran positive and negative test wires to the battery posts and it did fix the issue. Problem is, turning dual battery switch (1,2,both) to off obviously doesn't cut power to the radio, and if someone (kids) forgets to turn it off on the unit itself, it'll drain the battery. I'm guessing "direct to the battery" simply means not going through the harness connector bc either the power wire on the boat side is shared or the connector itself limits the bigger draw needed. If so, is connecting the wire directly from the Sony to the #2 position on the switch (rather than the battery post) accomplishing the same thing Crutchfield wants - once the switch is on #2? And if so, will I only be able to listen to the stereo while cruising if the selector is on #2 or BOTH? Finally, I can switch from #1 position to BOTH or to #2 with the engine running as long as I don't cross OFF, correct? Appreciate it!

 

[Scott Danforth]

turning a radio "off" doesnt disconnect it from power and it will still kill the batteries.

I personally use the ignition switch to fire a 100 amp solidstate relay that powers the house loads (radio, AMP, courtesy lights, etc.) this relay goes directly to the house batteries only and has a 80 amp relay at the batteries. I have 4 gauge cables running from the batteries up to the helm

the engine/gauges/ignition switch are powered thru the battery switch in the harness

that way, when the ignition is off or the battery switch is off, the solid state relay is off and there is no power to the radio to kill the batteries.

 

[dingbat]

Connect your new wire to the accessories terminal on the back of the off/on/both switch. Power will stay on as long as the switch is not turned off.

Most “modern” switches are “make before break” meaning you can switch between 1&2 with the engine running.

If it’s not a “make before break” switch you can’t switch with the motor running or rin the risk of cooking the alternator

 

[sheltonoil]

Connect your new wire to the accessories terminal on the back of the off/on/both switch. Power will stay on as long as the switch is not turned off.

Most “modern” switches are “make before break” meaning you can switch between 1&2 with the engine running.

If it’s not a “make before break” switch you can’t switch with the motor running or rin the risk of cooking the alternator

Hmm. Not sure how to tell if it's a make before break. It's a 2016 boat. Is there a way to tell from the switch itself? Also, which is the accessories terminal?

 

[dingbat]

Hmm. Not sure how to tell if it's a make before break. It's a 2016 boat. Is there a way to tell from the switch itself? Also, which is the accessories terminal?

Goggle the make and model of your switch. Look at the specification sheet. Should tell you everything you need to know.

 

[sam am I]

Connect your new wire to the accessories terminal on the back of the off/on/both switch.

What accessories terminal? On a off/on/both switch? Hmmmm

Also, which is the accessories terminal?

I think D.B. is referring to the output side of terminal #2 (House) if you have a switch/setup like this

 

[KD4UPL]

Here's what I did. I cut the wire leading out of the battery switch and installed a buss bar between the two cut ends. Then, I connected the wire that feeds my stereo amps to the buss bar. Any other loads I might add in the future will get connected here to.

 

[sheltonoil]

Thanks for the help guys. Huge help