A biased Smart Tab installation review...

ufm82

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
827
Well, I joined the seemingly growing club of boat owners adding Smart Tabs to their boats. I undertook the very scary task of drilling holes in my hull to install them this very weekend. Here is my report of the procedure. <br /><br /> After laying out all the parts and determining that everything was there, I assembled the tabs as directed. That was simple and straightforward- no surprises. I was pleasantly surprised to see just how heavy the tabs are- the tabs are thick stainless and the hinges and hardware seem to be up to the task. After assembly, I feel that they will handle the abuse of being dragged in the water very well. <br /><br /> I used the templates provided, although I did transfer the paper tab template onto a piece of cardboard for ease of use. I evaluated the transom to find the ideal location and of course, my swim ladder bracket was right in the way. I decided that something had to give and it was the ladder. 1 hour later and with the proper mods made to the swim ladder, I continued on. I marked the depth of the holes to be drilled with tape on the drill bit and gritted my teeth. After the first hole was drilled, my stress level dropped a lot. (I already made one hole- what's 13 more? LOL) I followed the directions on the installation and everything went as described. One thing I did find that wasn't really spelled out well in the directions was the chmaferrring of the screw holes. My first attempt at installing a screw resulted in a 1/2 " crack in the gelcoat. I winced a bit and tried chamferring a bit more and that solved that problem. I wound up cutting a chamfer all the way through the gelcoat. It's hard to explain but the tip of the chamferring bit started to touch fiberglass, if that makes any sense. After doing the holes like this, I had no further crack problems. I continued to install screws until all were in. I found out that my transom is extremely solid- I had to use a 3/8" ratchet with a #3 Phillips bit to turn the screws in; a screwdriver wouldn't do it. I was worried that simply being screwed into the fiberglass wouldn't be enough, especially after feeling the strength of the 80lb cylinders. I once again found that John has done a good job- these things are rock-solid. I believe they will hold up very well. <br /><br /> All in all, a fairly simple install. I do agree with one of the magazine reviews however when they say that the 1 hour install time is a little optimistic. However, if you do these as a profession, I have no doubt that a trained mechanic could do this in an hour. They really were simple. <br /><br /> Now I am just awaiting the opportunity to try them out to see what their effect will be. I'l' check back in when that happens. <br /><br />Thanks John! Seems like a great product!<br /><br />UFM82
 

bayman

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 2, 2000
Messages
669
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

Thank you for posting your review UFM82. I may put them on a small fiberglass boat soon so this was a helpful read.
 

Jdeagro

iboats.com Partner
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
1,682
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

When Screwing into fiberglass, especially if the boat is older and the glass is dried, you may need to ream the hole a bit more. Or go up 1/32 in size.<br /><br />If the screws seem very hard to install, back them out before they break.
 

fireman57

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,811
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

I agree with UFM82. I installed mine two days ago and it took a good hour. Of course, you are being very careful as it is the first time. The directions were superb and the engineering on the packing box was first rate as the template fits exactly on one of the side flaps. Probably going to be at least two weeks before I get to test mine but I am looking forward to it.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

One thing I did when I installed mine was to throw the backing that came with the kit away. I lined up and drilled the holes, then used 1/2" double stick foam tape. I stuck it to the hinge, then just stuck the whole assy to the boat, made it real easy to put the screws in, I used my cordless drill and the screws went right in.
 

fireman57

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,811
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

My tabs will be coming off this fall and the foam backing will be redone. The reason they are coming off is that when I drilled my transom holes I had water seeping out. Just redid the deck last fall and the transom seemed okay but I guess it's not. It'll get done but I want to fish first.
 

Jdeagro

iboats.com Partner
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
1,682
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

Just so you guys know the foam sealant material is not foam rubber but a marine sealant blown into a foam. If you wish to use additional sealant that is a personal preference. No Problem.<br /><br />Just be assured that the foam sealant is a marine sealant. <br /><br />Also, if you have an aluminum boat we highly recommend using the sealant strips that we provide because this becomes an insulating barrier between dissimilar metals, to avoid corrosion especially in salt water.<br /><br />If you drill into the transom and water seeps out, you should let everything dry. Open up the floor panels, remove the drain and maybe put a recalculating fan in the bilge. Then look to see where the water comes in.<br /><br />Thanks to everyone for sharing there personal "Tricks". Your suggestions are always welcome.
 

ufm82

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
827
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

If you get water draining out of your transom when you drill, you have serious issues. The wood, if there is any in the transom, will soon be mush. <br /><br /> Water in your transom is a baaaaaaad thing. <br /><br />UFM82
 

fireman57

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,811
Re: A biased Smart Tab installation review...

I know. John when I redid my flooring it is solid so I don't have floor panels. My deck is fine. The transom is still pretty solid just wet. I will replace it this summer or fall. Should be good till then. UFM82, it was some serious water coming out. When I got this boat last September (100 bucks and a mid 70's Merc tower of power on it that was seized) I knew it needed about everything. Sold the engine for 100.00 and put about 150 more in materials. Teh transom had lost it's seal and I let it dry as much as I could without ripping it out. Didn't get it resealed in time. Shouldn't be bad to do when I get to it though. I just want to get her out as I only had it out once before the cold hit.
 
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