Re: 97 seadoo challager
Procedure for Winterization.
Winterization is necessary in colder climates, where freezing is possible. If you are in a warm climate, and your ski is going to be stored for a long period, you should also consider this procedure.
The following procedure is for the older models (657, 587 engine), but may also apply to the newer skis (787, 947). Ill be updating it soon so it properly covers most models. If you arent sure about this procedure, consult the service manual for your year ski to make sure the following procedure will work for you.
Tools needed:
Flat screwdriver
Wire cutters, or knife
Medium size funnel
Hose Pincher (Sea Doo p/n 295000076)
Parts needed:
1 gallon - Antifreeze mix (50/50 or as recommended)
Sea doo Lube (p/n 293-600-016)
Flush hose
Fuel Stabilizer (p/n 413-408-600)
Procedure:
1. Estimate the quantity of fuel in your tank, and add Fuel Stabilizer as recommended in the directions on the container.
2. Remove the air silencer cover on top of the carb(s)(black plastic on newer skis, blue alum. on older ones).
3. Attach the flush fitting to the connector on the ski, and start the engine. Immediately turn water on, and bring engine up to approx. 3000 rpm (half throttle). Spray Sea Doo Lube into the carb opening(s) for 30 sec., then shut fuel valve off. Continue to spray Lube for another 30 sec. As engine starts to die, make sure to turn water off immediately, to avoid engine damage. (reminder - never run engine longer than 5 minutes, or jet pump bearing damage will occur).
4. Remove the spark plugs, placing the plug wires on the grounding terminals, and spray some Sea Doo Lube into the cylinders. Crank the engine over a few revs to distribute the Lube onto the cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.
5. Jet pump oil should be changed at this point. See the Pump Oil Change section.
6. Seal (if your ski has the type which requires lubrication) and PTO should be greased (this procedure is on the way).
7. Locate the main water lines where they attach to the jet pump and exhaust fitting. The inlet hose runs from the pump and splits into two hoses and connects to the pipe on most models. The outlet hose typically runs from the head to the exhaust fitting. The third hose is a drain hose (clear, usually) that runs from under the exhaust manifold to the exhaust fitting on most models. Remove these hoses where they connect to the pump and the exhaust outlet at the rear of the engine compartment. Tie these hoses so that the ends are above the top of the engine.
8. On the water inlet hose, follow it to the pipe and note where it splits and connects in two places. Install a hose pincher on the smaller hose that connects under the pipe (closest hose to engine). This keeps antifreeze from entering the cylinders, so dont skip this step !
9. Locate the water inlet hose (the one that was connected to pump), and insert the funnel into the end of it. Pour antifreeze mix into the funnel slowly until you can see antifreeze mix rise above the top of the engine in clear hose.
10. Leave these lines tied for the winter (if they are reattached, the mix will drain out).
11. An additional procedure that is recommended, is to drain the muffler (located behind the pipe). this involves removing the inlet and outlet exhaust hoses. Next, you need to remove the tie-down strap. Remove the muffler, and pour out any water. Reinstall the muffler in the reverse order.
12. Drain and dry the engine compartment thoroughly. Wipe any remaining water off the engine, and spray engine, and any exposed metal parts with Sea Doo Lube. Be sure to spray the carb and cable attachments.
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09-08-2006, 12:49 AM #3
CaptnKirk
Optimum quod primum
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Flint, Michigan
Age: 35
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Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****
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SeaDoo Pump Oil Change Proceedures
From The Boat Guy
Quote:
Procedure for jet pump oil change.
Changing jet pump oil in a Sea Doo should be done every 50 hours of use. Dirty or low oil will cause premature bearing failure (usually at the farthest point from land !). This procedure is fairly simple, requiring no specialized tools. The only part that may get tricky is on certain newer pumps with the new style pusher. The procedure for installing that type cone is coming soon. Lets get started !
Tools needed:
13 mm socket with ratchet and 10" extension (or longest you have)
2 - 10 mm wrench
allen wrench
8 mm socket with ratchet and extension
Needle nose pliers
Sea Doo jet pump oil
Loctite or similar Blue Thread retaining compound
Anti-seize compound
Pan to catch old oil (a pie pan works good)
Removal:
1. Remove steering cable at connection to the nozzle, using 10 mm wrenches. If working on a GTS/GTI/GTX, remove 2 large springs (using needle nose pliers) and reverse cable at the connection to the reverse water deflector (you will have to place ski in reverse to remove bolt). If working on a ski with trim, remove trim connections.
2. Using 13 mm ratchet, remove 4 bolts attaching nozzle to pump, and remove nozzle, being careful to catch 2 o-rings at the top (newer models don't have these).
3. Using allen wrench, remove plug located on top of the center cone.
4. Remove 3 8mm cone attachment bolts. Place the pan under cone. Lightly tap the tip of the cone to loosen it. When cone comes off, oil should run out (if no oil present, you have problems!). Check to see that no metallic particles are present in the old oil (use a magnet, if you have one). If any metallic particles are present, service of jet pump will be necessary.
5. Grab the shaft (it has 2 flat spots) and try to move up and down. If there is any movement greater than .05 mm, the jet pump should be rebuilt.
6. Check the o-ring located on the cone for any flat spots or tears. If it appears loose or damaged, replace with a new one.
7. Using paper towels or a rag, wipe off old oil from shaft and inside of cone. Also make sure no oil remains on cone and jet pump mating surfaces. If available, use a solvent to clean these surfaces.
8. Apply a light coating of Loctite 518 sealer to the o-ring and install it in the groove of the cone. Next, apply Loctite 518 sealer to the pump at the mating surface of the cone.
9. If your pump utilizes a pusher, there are several styles and youll need to reinstall pusher parts into cone properly then install cone carefully to insure that pusher is working properly.
On the newer style cones that utilize a 3 piece pusher (see picture below), youll need to insert a pencil or plastic pin into the oil fill to depress the tab and release pressure on the pusher. Then install cone and remove pencil. On this type system, after installing the cone bolts, you need to make sure the pump turns freely. You can do this by removing the grey PTO (engine flywheel) cover and rotate the engine by hand. If the pump feels tight, you may have to remove the cone and repeat installation procedure.
Go here for a .pdf description of proper installation of the 3 piece pusher.
10. Replace cone onto jet pump, making sure fill opening is on top and making sure that o-ring remains in cone groove. Apply Blue thread locking compound to threads of 8mm bolts and install. Torque to 7 N m (62 lb in) for aluminum pump, 4 N M (35 lb in) for plastic pump.
11. Add oil to fill opening until it reaches top. Lightly tap the sides of the cone to release any air (you may also wait a few minutes for excess air to come out). Repeat until oil is level with lower threads at fill opening and no more air escapes.
12. Apply anti-seize to the fill plug on aluminum/bronze cones and pipe sealant on plastic cones and install stainless plug.
13. Apply anti-seize to the 4 13mm bolts. If your model had the 2 o-rings, you need to stick them to the nozzle. This is accomplished using some grease. Apply grease to the o-rings, and place them in the 2 pockets on the top of the nozzle. Carefully install nozzle, and torque 4 bolts to 25 N m (18 lb ft) for aluminum pump, 21 N m (16 lb ft) for plastic pump.
14. Attach cables, springs, and connections in the reverse order that they were removed.
