This OB ran w/o any problems for years. I discovered a headgasket problem at the same time an ignition problem killed the motor: now I'm back w. 115/125/125 psi cold and no spark.<br /><br />The ignition problem started out intermidantly. Running fine all day up to the evening fresh water flush. Next AM wouldn't start, but starter RPM seemed low. Trailered home and put battery on charger, pull/clean plugs, kept #1 boot off and gapped to ground. After 15 minute charge started right up and gave great spark, smoothly idleing on just #'s 2+3. Re-connected #1 and launched next day. Ran all day pulling heavy teenage boys tubing. Only problem was stalling periodically at idle.<br />That evening the OB was a bit finicky to get going, needing fast idle throttle position to start. Would stall when brought back to neutral and into gear a few times, but got underway just cruising with boat load of adults. Kept my eye on the volt meter to see if the multiple starting cycles had run down the batt., and if it was charging. Gauge showed just under 13v. Didn't feel that there was much power but the OB would run up towards its usual WOT of 5200 RPM for 15 min. run to beach destination. Coming back later 1 cyclinder was skipping, again with same 13 volt reading, at 4200 RPM @ full throttle. Within 10 minutes I lost which ever cyclinder was skipping. At that instant the voltage jumped to 14 volts. Just as I got to the boat launch at a rough idle the engine died completly. A spark check later showed no ignition, and a compression check confirmed my feeling re. bad headgasket. Turned-out that sealing ring on #1 was missing 1/4" of metal.<br /><br />No one in my area will "touch" a FORCE motor. Called a repair place in another state that does and was told that the rectifier sounded suspect, with an intermidant problem that ended up frying the switchbox. Haven't pulled the flywheel but a peek underneath doesn't show any errant debris or suspect wiring. Can't find any Clymer info on ohm tests for the trigger or stator assemblies, but digital VM and diode tests of similar rectifier on a known working OB gave identical values as mine. I've disconnectted the engine wiring harness plug and the black/yellow kill ground wire from the switchbox to make sure a bad/grounded key switch or boat wiring problem wasn't the culprit. <br /><br />I've order up a new rectifier and switchbox. Hate to diagnose and fix an electrical problem by replacing components but that seems to be my only choice.<br /><br />Any learned readers of this long post with suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 
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