93 bravo 2 noise in upper case

[stang32]

bravo coupler totally wiped out

ok, i posted last week about this boat with an bravo 2 drive, noise in the upper case, when i 1st started it this year, the gimbal bearing was making noise so we replaced that and checked the alignment which was fine after getting the bearing lined up, there was still a noise, and also i could hear the u joints clacking so we replaced the u joints. now when we reinstalled the drive, which went in nice an easy each time, sounded like marbles, no issues found though, i heard from several of my fellow boaters onthe forum that they had similar noise and it went away wihr the boas was in the water. so splash we did. the boat was out for 2 hrs the 1st day & 7 hrs the next. it broke down while out, it was in neautral and when put back in gear, it went nowhere. no noise, no bang, no indication of a problem. after pulling the oat out of the water, i found the drive was spinning freely in the coupler. i pulled the motor yesterday & found the coupler completely void of teeth. how the hell did this happen, it scares me to think i may have another issue that will destroy the new coupler if i do not find what caused this to happen. here is a lonk to the photos of the cupler, as well as 3 videos, 1 of the upper cover off the drive and 2 of the unit making the noise. i hope you guys can help me with this

 

[tpenfield]

New Coupler, make sure drive shaft spins true, make sure alignment is spot on, go boating.

 

[thumpar]

I have always heard that when a coupler goes from the teeth getting eaten up it is lack of grease on the splines and when the coupler spins it is from bad alignment.

 

[alldodge]

there was still a noise, and also i could hear the u joints clacking so we replaced the u joints.

After replacing the U joints did the noise go away?

Are you using an alignment bar or just seeing that the drive slides on easy?

With a new coupler loosing the teeth in short order, I think you either have a bent input shaft or your motor mounts are shot

Looking at you vid showing the removal of the top cap, question: was the drive full of lube prior to removing the cap?

 

[stang32]

After replacing the U joints did the noise go away?

Are you using an alignment bar or just seeing that the drive slides on easy?

With a new coupler loosing the teeth in short order, I think you either have a bent input shaft or your motor mounts are shot

Looking at you vid showing the removal of the top cap, question: was the drive full of lube prior to removing the cap?

well, the gimbal noise went away when i replaced the bearing, but then we heard the u joint noise we replaced the u joints nd thats when i heard the noise in the upper case. the noise in the case seemed to disapate when turned hard left(i think) the noise quieted down a lot.
the vidoe was made after the gimbal bearing and u joints were replaced.
i am using the alignment tool. when i pulled the drive(3 times) the shaft was fine, clean, i greased it up well, each time, when i pulled the drive to replace the coupler, the spline was full of aluminum from the coupler.
the drive was full of fluid, i removed the side cover and a lot came out before the video started.

 

[alldodge]

Had to find your original thread on the drive, and think now I might have a better picture of what happened.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...10581511-93-bravo-2-noise-in-upper-case/page2

There was all this noise and the coupler's teeth are stripped out. New U joints and gimbal bearing helped reduce the noise but the coupler's teeth were about to go at this point. Now it gave up and needs replaced.

So Ted has it correct in post 2

If this was all in one thread I think it would have been easier for me

 

[stang32]

thanks, i thought that it would be better to make a new post and re- explain it. the front motor mounts are rusted to ****, i have replacements, the rear bellhousing to transom bolts were stuck in the bushings and i had to impact them out, the bushings are shot, i am gettting new bushings, spacers, bolts and nuts. you would not believe what i went through to get the bolts out, they were corroded right into the bushing sleeves, the nuts were actually fine, once i got the motor out, the nuts have clena threads on them, i am replacing them anyway along with the fiber spacer & spring washer. even though the motor was aligned prior, i ave to realign since i have the motor out & new mounts. i should be able to align this motor a lot easier now.

 

[stang32]

one more question, what about the noise that almost goes totaly away when turned to the side, is that also an indication of the coupler?

 

[alldodge]

one more question, what about the noise that almost goes totaly away when turned to the side, is that also an indication of the coupler?

Since your coupler had so much play in it, then I would also assume this is the noise. The drive shaft was flopping (so to speak) inside the coupler. If after you get everything back together, and you still have an issue, it will be time to look closer at the drive

 

[stang32]

your aces

 

[GA_Boater]

Had to find your original thread on the drive, and think now I might have a better picture of what happened.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...per-case/page2

There was all this noise and the coupler's teeth are stripped out. New U joints and gimbal bearing helped reduce the noise but the coupler's teeth were about to go at this point. Now it gave up and needs replaced.

So Ted has it correct in post 2

If this was all in one thread I think it would have been easier for me

All combined now as it should have been from the start. History counts when trying to figure out a problem.

Most likely if the coupler was examined when the gimbal bearing was replaced (strike 1) and the u-joint was replaced (strike 2), you be on 1st with a base on balls.

The coupler didn't end up with no teeth over night. Make sure the u-joints are free, move easily and and aren't jamming.

 

[stang32]

All combined now as it should have been from the start. History counts when trying to figure out a problem.

Most likely if the coupler was examined when the gimbal bearing was replaced (strike 1) and the u-joint was replaced (strike 2), you be on 1st with a base on balls.

The coupler didn't end up with no teeth over night. Make sure the u-joints are free, move easily and and aren't jamming.

actually, it did, the yoke was clean each time prior to the last removal. i grease the yoke up well each time and there were no signs of aluminum on the splines but when removed to pull the engine, the yoke was all shiny, i noticed it within seconds of removal

 

[dubs283]

i grease the yoke up well each time

this is fine but you also need to grease the coupler, there should be grease zirks on the coupler itself but one cannot always access these from inside the engine compartment

using a long screwdriver with 1-1.5 fl oz of grease on the end you can grease the coupler easily from the rear with the drive off

the issue with only greasing the splined shaft is the seal in front of the gimble bearing wipes most of the grease off when the shaft passes through

couplers that are greased regularly last the lifetime of the boat, couplers that are not greased regularly fail quickly

 

[stang32]

good tip, thanks

 

[stang32]

ok. so a little update, the new coupler was installed and the engine back in place, the alignment came out so well it practicaly spun freely in the bearing. i had ot put new motor mounts in because the old ones wer to shot.
so we started it up afte topping of the gear lube and she is purring like a kitten, no back end noise. great sound.
thanks for all your help guys,

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CuhARep1fHuHSDGE9

 

[alldodge]

cool, your hard work paid off

 

[stang32]

yes, it was a lot of cursing going on, everything was soo corroded, oxodized and rusted. i had to cutt the old mounts off i ended up leaving the engine side mounts in place since the bolt heads were all rounded off. i just used the lower mounts. the bellhousing was so bad, i broke 3 bolts in the block end had to chisel the bellhouisng off due to corrosion in the bolt holes. the bellhousing mounts were fused to the inner bushings. i had to cut them out and once the bellhousing was out of the eay, the bolts untreaded fro mthe lower nuts with ease. , so, yeah, very much fun but it is done.