Re: 9.5 flywheel
The trick is to use a strap wrench (or a buddy) to hold the flywheel. I've seen posts about stuffing rope in the cylinder to block the piston, but I've also seen posts about how the rope got severed on a port and the engine had to be torn down. I don't like the idea of stressing out the piston pin/rod/crank/ anyway.<br /><br />Once you have the nut off (it's a normal right-hand nut - counter-clockwise to remove) you're also going to need a puller for the flywheel. You need the sort that employs the three screw holes in the flywheel or you'll break it. A hammer is not a puller.<br /><br />What does work, other than an special outboard flywheel puller, is an automotive 'harmonic balancer puller'. These relatively inexpensive pullers usually don't come with the bolts you'll need, so you may have to pick up three high grade 1/4" - 20TPI bolts around 3 or 4" long (grade 8 would be fine).<br /><br />To get the carb off, you first remove the knob that's on the end of the flex line, then you unscrew the entire line until the valve comes right out of the carb. Then you can pull the carb.<br /><br />When you reassemble the flywheel, the torque for the flywheel nut is rather critical. You're in need of a manual. The one Iboats sells is alright for your 9.5hp but these factory originals are much better:<br />
TheOutboardWizard<br />
Mastertech<br />
Marine Engine<br />
Ken Cook <br />You can also spot them on ebay sometimes much cheaper.<br /><br />If you're unwilling to sink any money into the manual, say until you know your engine's good, then just zip down to the library and see what they have for outboard manuals. Whatever you do, do it with a manual.<br /><br />Did I mention that a manual helps?
It really is worth it's weight in gold.<br /><br />PS - bad spark is often caused by cracked coils. If the coil is all cracked up, you can get a replacement from Iboats for something like $17. PN 18-5181. 'Course your local dealer can do the same.
