89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

[Injury]

Engine is a Model J150STL CEM

It was serviced (tune up and lower unit) run once or twice then has setup for several years, part of the time under a car port and part of the time outside. Going through the Waking a Sleeping Outboard thread (good info in there). I however have come across several things that I want some advice or info about.

In testing the primer bulb I noticed when I got the bulb stiff some fuel was dripping out of the silencer and pooling under a little metal plate mounted under the carbs. Is this normal behavior? The Engine was tilted up at this point. I have always noticed a lot of grime buildup around there and had never figured out why.

My other question at the moment. I intend to pull the lower unit and replace the impeller just in case texas heat may have made that formerly new impeller that was sitting brittle, and as a learning experience. I'm trying to make sure the bolt I intend to remove is actually the right one for releasing the shift shaft. The Clymer manual just kind of points to a dark recess so I tried to take some pictures of what I think is the bolt for confirmation. They call it a screw but it looks like a bolt to me.

What I "think" is the bolt I need to remove is circled in white here

A little zoomed out and hidden from the flash in the dark recesses here

 

[Benny1963]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

get a flash light look on the side were your fuel bar ties in its down below the carb the easiest way is to take silencer mounting plate of and ya can see better if your standing behind your motor it will be on the left side its a bolt with a screw slot in it i use a 1/4 inch drive socket with swivel and i tape swivel so that its not as flex able then use long ekxtension its easier to see in forward gear

 

[Injury]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

thanks I'll look again in daylight.

Makes me wonder what that bolt is for then (curiosity). It looks like it's through a big round L shaped metal piece connected via ity bitty cotter pins to the shift control that's stacked with the throttle.

 

[gtie94]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

Greetings - I'm a newbie in the middle of restoring a 1984 version of your engine, and I've come across this in my own trials. I checked the online catalog for your engine model and I can't tell any difference between it and mine, at least in this area.

I've got everything off the intake manifold, so it's easy to see, so I'm posting a pic below - I believe your pic is of the same thing, but just playing it safe. The screw you have to remove is on the side (the head is on the port side of the engine, near the fuel/oil pump). The screw actually goes through a hole in the top of the shift rod; don't let the rod get turned when it's disconnected.

To your point about the grime on the plate below the carbs - mine was the same. I pulled it and have cleaned it; I haven't reinstalled yet, as you can tell in the pics.

I don't know how long 'several' years is, but mine had set for probably 15+ in almost the same exact conditions you describe (carport or out in the open). As a result, I had to pull and clean everything - and I mean everything. Including the intake manifold itself. I've attached another pic to tell the tale. You may want to consider that yourself if the motor has sat for a long time - it was easy to do. I also rebuilt all 3 carbs - again pretty easy and cheap. Fuel lines, recirculation hoses are my next headache. The 6 check valves w/ filters on the manifold all have to go (on mine) as they are totally gummed up.

One final note - on the 1984 model, the Johsnon service manual says to make sure the engine is in reverse before dropping the gear case. Word to the wise on that, since it wasn't mentioned anywhere in the SELOC manual I had. I imagine yours is the same.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

 

[Injury]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

thanks for the tips. looks like I was on the correct part just the wrong side of it.

I have the Clymer manual and it stresses reverse as well.

got the old fuel line primer bulb off...They were disintegrating as I touched them and turning my hands black.

Looks like it'll be a fun project.

 

[etex driller]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

Hey injury that looks to be correct bolt and my 86 gt 150 gets dirty down in bottom too when you tilt motor up a little oil and gas will drain from carbs I've owned 4 of them and all the same plus gas hogs lol.nice to see home folks on here in laws live in clear lakes I will be there next weekend fishing fork as usual so if you need help let me know.

 

[gtie94]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

It sounds like you and I are in pretty much the same situation. Time to clean everything and replace anything that's made of rubber.

Keep at it and let me know how it goes.

 

[Injury]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

cool my wife works in Tyler, and grandmother lives in Clear Lakes

 

[etex driller]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

Yeah I live in arp outside of tyler and come to arlington every other week where I'm a driller on a drilling rig I work with a few people from quitman area.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

hi guys, you can get the proper factory service manual here,

www.outboardbooks.com

well worth it.!

 

[Injury]

Re: 89 Johnson GT150 V6 - Several Questions

The work thus far...complete with noob missteps and bungles

Got the lower unit off, impeller replaced. Went through the carbs with new kits. I was a bit paranoid about the carbs after seeing the multitude of little plastic o rings and bits and pieces in the carb kits, but apparently they mass package for several different carbs since a good bit of those little pieces weren't in my carbs to begin with.

The only things in my carbs that were in the kit were 2 orings, seat/seal, float, little metal thing that sits in the seat, and the metal plugs. Inside of the carbs weren't that bad, the only thing I saw that made me take real notice were the orange "rubber" tips on the little metal thing the float raises and lowers. At least one carb the tip looked like it might have had a bend in it, and feeling them I could see why they might not want to move freely after having set up. New ones didn't seem to have rubber tips but possibly had some kind of coating on them. Was hard to tell.

I was ready to take hostages from Johnson's design team when trying to reinstall the lower unit. Even without the third carb in place it was still a PITA at first. After getting it up there and not being able to get the pin in 10+ times I got to be pretty deft at fitting my hand in there.

Key note coming for others that might be doing this their first time. Have another person, or try and reach the shifting mechanism as there is a little bit of play to get that pin in. I didn't realize there was a little give so my day and a half went like this. Drop lower unit first time, get impeller replaced, raise it up with no binding shift rod going up perfectly, think "wow too easy something must be wrong", Can't get the pin in, call petite wife over she can't get the pin in either. Scratch head for a bit then conclude "that shift rod must have turned when I pulled it out and is now too low", confirm with wife it must be too low thus rod must need to go up one turn. Proceed with bad idea, get it up there still no love, ok 2 turns from original position is up one from here. etc etc until we were so confused by the time she happened to touch the shift cable and I noticed a little play that I wasn't sure were it was to go. Speed off to Johnson shop/mechanics I've been getting parts from before they close on saturday. Nice guys set the shift rod height for me with their special measuring tool and didnt charge me (good thing as you will see in a second). Get back home and I notice the shifter on the boat is in reverse (I had warned the shop guys that it might not be in neutral since manual said to remove the thing while it was in reverse). Turn the prop shaft and hear the tink tink tink umm that sounds like it's almost in full gear, pull on shift rod and it pops into neutral...those knuckleheads good thing it was free. I pull up the measurements and figure they got me close to home I should be able to wing it since each turn is 1/32 of an inch. put pin in the shift rod and get my stiffest tape measure and devise my own OMC special part number whatever measuring tool and get the measurement right to the middle of the pin where I needed it and got the thing mounted.

I'd hoped to try starting her today, but in remounting the carbs the screw that holds the roller fell into the grass (yes I checked under that plate beneath the carbs). So alas I am waiting til tomorrow and will get another screw and hopefully have the old girl running again.