88 Evinrude 48 spl flywheel rub

[ProjectPat]

So I'm having what I read to be a pretty common problem with the flywheel rubbing. I've been having what sounds like a bell ringing noise from the motor. The support plate and bearing for the armature plate is worn really bad. It was actually popping the linkage off from the throttle to the armature plate. So I ordered a new bearing and support plate. This has gone on long enough to where the flywheel is pretty worn underneath on the magnets as well as the coil & lamination assembly, the sensor assembly and the stator assembly are all worn as well. So my question is should I just replace everything that is rubbed/worn? What are the chances my battery will charge if I don't? It's not a huge deal but I'd rather not pull it all apart twice

 

[kbait]

Re-fit armature plate with plastic bearing removed and check for lateral play on the smaller diameter inner bearing surface (pulled from a prior post):

Lateral play in arnature plate will change point gap when it moves, (or cause flywheel rubbing on coils etc), changing timing on points opening when spark occurs. I fix by pulling armature plate and modifying the boss it ‘rides’ or pivots on. Use a center punch/hammer and lightly punch the sides of boss at 12-3-6-and 9 o’clock. This will effectively increase the bosses diameter by leaving 4 small waves of metal at punch sites. Dry fit armature plate and check lateral play. Should be better.. now punch the same 4 holes again and test fit.. eventually, all play will be gone, and slight resistance in plate pivoting. This is where you want it. Add a dab of grease to your punch marks, reassemble, set points and go fish!
This fix works long term. Good luck!

 

[racerone]

But this motor does not have breaker points !

 

[kbait]

But armature plate is likely sloppy, causing flywheel rub. Same fix.

 

[oldboat1]

could be the spring and spacer assembly on the starter. Listen with the engine cover off.

 

[ProjectPat]

could be the spring and spacer assembly on the starter. Listen with the engine cover off.

Re-fit armature plate with plastic bearing removed and check for lateral play on the smaller diameter inner bearing surface (pulled from a prior post):

Lateral play in arnature plate will change point gap when it moves, (or cause flywheel rubbing on coils etc), changing timing on points opening when spark occurs. I fix by pulling armature plate and modifying the boss it ‘rides’ or pivots on. Use a center punch/hammer and lightly punch the sides of boss at 12-3-6-and 9 o’clock. This will effectively increase the bosses diameter by leaving 4 small waves of metal at punch sites. Dry fit armature plate and check lateral play. Should be better.. now punch the same 4 holes again and test fit.. eventually, all play will be gone, and slight resistance in plate pivoting. This is where you want it. Add a dab of grease to your punch marks, reassemble, set points and go fish!
This fix works long term. Good luck!

I already ordered a new support plate and bearing, with the amount of play between the two this should solve the issue. I don't quite understand what you're talking about with punching the boss in the specified locations. As long as I don't have a bad crank shaft bearing this should solve the issue I'm thinking. What I'm asking is should all the ignition components be replaced with it because of the damage that has occurred?

 

[tphoyt]

It’s hard to say without seeing or knowing what level of wear your talking about. I would say if it’s a concern to you that they are badly worn and you have the coin to replace everything then may as well.
Otherwise it’s a trial and error project.

 

[ProjectPat]

Ok that's what I was thinking, I found the parts they're pretty cheap and it would be said and done. Thanks

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

did someone maybe hit the flywheel with a hammer at some point? that would be the most logical, although the starter would likely bind with the flywheel...

 

[ProjectPat]

did someone maybe hit the flywheel with a hammer at some point? that would be the most logical, although the starter would likely bind with the flywheel...

So I reassembled with new armature plate support and bearing and it only took out about half of the "slop" and still rubbed bad. So I ordered a used complete armature plate assembly and now there's no play at all. It appears to be cast aluminum I think with a brass bushing in the center and the center was worn. Didn't look any different from my original but there was a ton of play in it. I also ordered a used flywheel. I put everything back together and still have a tiny bit of rubbing so I adjusted the coil, stator and sensor back as far as it'll go and there's very minimal rubbing now just on the aluminum armature plate. I took it out for a few hours today and it's running better than it ever has since I've owned it. It's still not charging the battery though which was a previous issue

 

[ProjectPat]

So I threw a new rectifier on there, the voltage slowly (very slowly) climbs up. I'm in the driveway with muffs so I'm not throttling it up too much. I watched a guy on YouTube with a mercury check with his meter on the battery and as soon as the motor starts and levels out his voltage climbed up to above thirteen without throttling. Mine didn't go above 12.8. Are mercs different in the way their charging system kicks in or do I still have an issue? I expected it to climb up a lot quicker.

 

[racerone]

If the charging system is working it should show 13.5 / 14 volts.-----A fully charged battery reads 12.8 volts.

 

[ProjectPat]

If the charging system is working it should show 13.5 / 14 volts.-----A fully charged battery reads 12.8 volts.

That's what I figured, should I start troubleshooting the wiring? What other components are involved in the charging system?

 

[racerone]

Windings in the stator and the rectifier.------

 

[ProjectPat]

Ok thanks, just installed a new (used) complete armature assembly and new* rectifier. I had this problem originally, I'll trace all the wires out for breaks and bad connections and test the stator

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Ok thanks, just installed a new (used) complete armature assembly and new* rectifier. I had this problem originally, I'll trace all the wires out for breaks and bad connections and test the stator

do you have a multimeter? just flip it to the 10 amp setting and connect to the system. Racer: it should show 13.5-14v when running at higher RPM with this little 6 amp system correct? if he just hooked a voltmenter to the battery at idle it should only show 12.5-12.7v or atleast thats what i've seen.